Hard Start
Any ideas what to try for a hard starting car? About half the time, my 2001 SL1 fires up within 3 cranks. The other half it takes a few seconds of cranking.
I did a Valvoline 3 part intake cleaning and I've run 2 bottles of Lucas Oil injector cleaner and one of Valvoline injector cleaner.
Do these cars have fuel filters that can be changed? What else should I try? What other issues might cause intermittent starting difficulties?
Thanks!
I did a Valvoline 3 part intake cleaning and I've run 2 bottles of Lucas Oil injector cleaner and one of Valvoline injector cleaner.
Do these cars have fuel filters that can be changed? What else should I try? What other issues might cause intermittent starting difficulties?
Thanks!
Thanks for the reply! The amount of gas in the tank does not seem to have any effect on the hard start issue.
I have noticed that on the occasions it starts with difficulty, the car seems to shudder while cranking.
Any ideas?
I have noticed that on the occasions it starts with difficulty, the car seems to shudder while cranking.
Any ideas?
Well - find someone with a fuel pressure gage, and check the pressure at the fuel rail during a start (should be about 37psi). Then there's always the old standby -- replace the ECTS and it's associated wire connector. Cost is about $40usd for parts (OEM if at all possible). Third possibility would be the CPS module (another $15usd).
I stand corrected! Low gas equals harder start, after all. What's that mean?
I'd like to find out more about replacing the ECTS, can you direct me to a post that would tell me more about it? I did a search and could only find vague references to the process.
Thanks for all the help!
I'd like to find out more about replacing the ECTS, can you direct me to a post that would tell me more about it? I did a search and could only find vague references to the process.
Thanks for all the help!
OK, ok --
If the problem of hard starting is made worse the closer your tank gets to empty, you need to have your fuel pump pressure regulator replaced. What is happening, is that while your car is shut off (with a very low tank), the fuel is draining back away from the engine. Takes a couple of hours to happen. I don't remember if the pressure regulator is part of the pump --> DERF and SW2Cam ... guidance here please
If the problem of hard starting is made worse the closer your tank gets to empty, you need to have your fuel pump pressure regulator replaced. What is happening, is that while your car is shut off (with a very low tank), the fuel is draining back away from the engine. Takes a couple of hours to happen. I don't remember if the pressure regulator is part of the pump --> DERF and SW2Cam ... guidance here please
I don't remember if the pressure regulator is part of the pump
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There is a pressure RELIEF valve as part of the fuel pump designed to deliver more pressure than the engine requires to the fuel rail supplying the injectors.
There is a pressure REGULATOR at the fuel rail to see to it correct pressure is at the rail thus at the injectors. The regulator is controlled by engine vacuum so the vacuum line to the regulator should be good.
It is a handy thing to have a fuel pressure gauge in order to measure fuel pressure under various conditions at the pressure rail on the engine. A guage with appropriate adapters for multiple applications runs about $100.00 or so at the time I bought mine and has been worth the money to have to aid in diagnosis of what can be a very expensive mistake if guessing wrong.
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There is a pressure RELIEF valve as part of the fuel pump designed to deliver more pressure than the engine requires to the fuel rail supplying the injectors.
There is a pressure REGULATOR at the fuel rail to see to it correct pressure is at the rail thus at the injectors. The regulator is controlled by engine vacuum so the vacuum line to the regulator should be good.
It is a handy thing to have a fuel pressure gauge in order to measure fuel pressure under various conditions at the pressure rail on the engine. A guage with appropriate adapters for multiple applications runs about $100.00 or so at the time I bought mine and has been worth the money to have to aid in diagnosis of what can be a very expensive mistake if guessing wrong.
Sorry - been fighting a head cold/sinus, and the drugs they give ya nowadays make me a bit scatter-brained (more than usual-hah).
It is the pressure relief valve. The wife's Saturn went through two of 'em (one at 30k-under warranty, and the other at 90k, which the dealership only hit me with labor charges).
It is the pressure relief valve. The wife's Saturn went through two of 'em (one at 30k-under warranty, and the other at 90k, which the dealership only hit me with labor charges).
Thanks for the info! In the mean time, I seem to have no trouble starting by priming the pump first by putting the key to "run" for a few seconds before starting. Is this going to be bad to do over time? Is a new valve urgent?
How much is fair for getting it fixed, parts and labor? I don't feel too confident tinkering with fuel system components, myself.
How much is fair for getting it fixed, parts and labor? I don't feel too confident tinkering with fuel system components, myself.
As far as doing the "priming" thingy ... eventually, it will fail, but the urgency is not there. Just remember that this problem will be worse if ya park on an upslope (like a driveway).
Cost? If ya go to a Saturn trained GM shop -- about $200 for parts and labor. If ya go to Joe's Crabbe Shak and Tire Changing Service, it'll be whatever they think they can gyp you out
Cost? If ya go to a Saturn trained GM shop -- about $200 for parts and labor. If ya go to Joe's Crabbe Shak and Tire Changing Service, it'll be whatever they think they can gyp you out


