Hello ive been doing some reading around and came across an EGR block plate
ive read alot of good things that make me want to go make one for my sons car but ive also read they can burn your exhaust valves up which surely i dont want to do with an engine with 61k miles...whats your professionall opions

 

What kind of problems are you having with your sons car that would make you opt for an EGR blocking plate?

 

its developed a slight miss when its cold.kinda feels like when the good old cars would back fire through the exhaust, if that makes any sense.lift off the gas and hit it again it stutters abit and clears ..and runs fine when its warm..codes 26 which has always been there since we put the new engine in but ran great..but 2 new ones are code 32(egr system fault)and 45(oxygen sensor indicates rich exhaust)..i did clean the egr but no difference

 

Theres a lot more harm than good you can do by blocking off the EGR.

You need to fix the problem rather than putting a band-aid over it.

A code 26 by itselfusually indicates a faulty CCP solenoid.

A code 32 with a 26 usuallt indicates a faulty EGR solenoid.

A code 45 may point to the 02 sensor, but its usually caused by a faulty ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor). And by your description, it actually souns like this sensor is bad.Edited by: Low Saturn

 

I also have been throwing 26 for quite a while on my 94 SL2, but now recently it has gotten cold and it stutters sometimes shuts off and electrical stuff acts possessed. It is now also throwing 32.

Thanks for posting and thanks for the help on this one y''all.

 

A 26 with a 32 sounds like the EGR solenoid. But you say you''ve had a 26 by itself for a while. So it sounds like the CCP and EGR solenoids might be faulty.

As for the electrical prople, thats most likely unrelated. I''d have the alternator checked and check the condition of the positive battery cable.

 

Now that I think about it, I was having the electrical possessed-wig-out-wacky problem earlier this year and someone said "get a new battery" which I did, and it fixed it for the time being.

The wacky stuff (lights off/on, clicking of door locks, seat belt not knowing whether to move or not) happens only when the car is off. So I''m inclined to think your battery cable analysis is good.

When the car is running now, and I''m stopping, the idle speed will drop to like 100 RPM instead of the usual 1000 (sometimes it drops to 0), and then recover to only 600-800, and pulsates by about 100-200 rpm. When I give it even gas to be at about 1500 rpm, it will be wavering between 1400 and 1500.

Basically if I can get it started and give it enough gas to keep it from stalling out I am OK.

I''ll check out the battery cable and maybe put an order in for the solenoids.

Thanks a lot for your help.

 

And now that I think about it more, your alternator analysis is probably the best of all.

 

See if there is corrosion where the terminal end of the cable and battery meet. Also bend the cable to see if it feels "crunchy" inside. The AC Delco batteries GM used were known to leak through the positive battery terminal into the cables. Causing to corrode from the inside out.