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97 Saturn Help/Problem Starting

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  #1  
Old 12-17-2008, 08:36 PM
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HI,Guy''s i am new here.But man i got problems with my 97 SL2 Saturn 1.9L [MFI] engine


Let me start off with what it is doing.Well about 6 weeks ago ,it started running ruff after the motor warn up and was hard to start up if it was cut off.The engine turns over just fine,it just did not want to start up.But it would Start up just fine when the engine was cold.


Now it will not start up at all even when cold.


The fuel pump is running ,because i can hear it after i first trun on the switch for a few secounds.


I pulla spark plug wire off one side of the coil and got wife to turn the engine over and it was Capping fire like crazy to the coil post it came off of.


Can it still be the CPS?


If not, what else can it be?.


.It has plenty of Compression.It is not from the motor haveing low compression.Ya i know what it sounds like by starting cold and not starting when it gets warm up.But it is coming from something else.


I have had a bad stroke, and my money is fix and funny.So i must find the problem myself first, then get a friend are someone real cheap to fix it for me.


Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 12-17-2008, 10:35 PM
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It is unusual to have both the CPS and the ECTS fail at the same time, but anything is possible, I guess.

Personally, I would replace the engine coolant temp sensor (ECTS) and the associated connector first. About $40usd in parts.

If it still acts up, then replace the CPS

 
  #3  
Old 12-17-2008, 11:04 PM
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HI OceanArcher,is there any way to check/test the ECTS thats in the car before i buy one?If so?How? I know i sound cheap,but 40 Bucks right now would be a Mountain of money to me,if it were not it.


I got a OHM meter ,if i can OHM it out show how and know what the values are and should be.


Thanks
Originally Posted by OceanArcher
It is unusual to have both the CPS and the ECTS fail at the same time, but anything is possible, I guess.

Personally, I would replace the engine coolant temp sensor (ECTS) and the associated connector first. About $40usd in parts.

If it still acts up, then replace the CPS
 
  #4  
Old 12-18-2008, 03:55 AM
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OK Larry, here is the info ...

The ECTS is nothing more than a thermistor. The resistance can be measured using an ohmmeter. As the temperature increases, the value of the thermistor will decrease. At 50F degrees, the value will be about 5,600 ohms; at 80F degrees, the value will be about 2,400 ohms. At 180F degrees, the value will be about 300 ohms; at 200F degrees, the value will be about 200 ohms.

Be sure that neither leg of the thermistor is shorted to the case of the sensor, that drives the computer nuts. Oh, the ECTS only costs about $15usd, its that dammed plastic connector which is costly ($25usd) ...

Edited by: OceanArcher
 
  #5  
Old 12-18-2008, 10:19 AM
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Many Many thanks OceanArcher for all your help.But i got something that is heavy on my mind.Can this Part [ECTS] stop the engine from crancking/starting up.I guess i am old school back when a Part such as this could not stop a car from crancking/starting up.I mean it is just Engine Coolant Temp Sensor.Yes i know it is important to know how hot or cold a engine might be.But could this Part [ECTS] compleatly stop a engine from crancking/starting up?


Please don''''t get me wrong, i Thank you so very much.I just maybe don''''t understand these new FANGLE Cars now adays,LOL


PS


The wife just told me this morning ,that for about 4 weeks are more the TEMP Gage Hand did not more over all the time.She said sometimes it went over to normal and some times it would not move over at all.Though you moght want to know.


Thanks


Originally Posted by OceanArcher
OK Larry, here is the info ...

The ECTS is nothing more than a thermistor. The resistance can be measured using an ohmmeter. As the temperature increases, the value of the thermistor will decrease. At 50F degrees, the value will be about 5,600 ohms; at 80F degrees, the value will be about 2,400 ohms. At 180F degrees, the value will be about 300 ohms; at 200F degrees, the value will be about 200 ohms.

Be sure that neither leg of the thermistor is shorted to the case of the sensor, that drives the computer nuts. Oh, the ECTS only costs about $15usd, its that dammed plastic connector which is costly ($25usd) ...
Edited by: LarryFox
 
  #6  
Old 12-18-2008, 05:46 PM
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Hi there Larry ...

Unfortunately, yes, this part could very well keep your car from starting/running, especially this time of the year. Allow me to paint a scenario:


This sensor adjusts the fuel mixture and timing to ensure your car operates as economically as possible. Assume the sensor has shorted. This means the computer thinks the engine is running very very hot, so it will reduce the fuel mixture (for economy), and retard the spark (so the engine does not knock). The cooling fan will run continuously, even though the engine is not up to normal operating temperature. (Your wife mentioned that the temp gauge hardly moved, remember?) It is reading a different sensor, and is working OK.

The bad part in all this, is that the CPS may be starting to fail as well, but ya gotta start somewhere, and this is the easier of the fixes, both time and $$ wise
 
  #7  
Old 12-18-2008, 07:35 PM
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Once again i want to say thank you OceanArcher for the time and trouble i have been causeing you about this.Please forgive me i am not doughting your word.I just want to understand it better.


First off .As i understand it my 97 SL2 Saturn 1.9L MFI has only one ECTS [sencor] and that one sencor has a funtion also to control the TEMP Dash Meter where as some have two sencor''s


By mine only have one sencor,do you think it could or still control the timing? Also via mine only haveing one sencor would the FAN be running if that one sencor was bad?


I am going to get it change out as soon as i find someone to do it for me.Again thanks for all your help in understanding this problem


Originally Posted by OceanArcher
Hi there Larry ...

Unfortunately, yes, this part could very well keep your car from starting/running, especially this time of the year. Allow me to paint a scenario:


This sensor adjusts the fuel mixture and timing to ensure your car operates as economically as possible. Assume the sensor has shorted. This means the computer thinks the engine is running very very hot, so it will reduce the fuel mixture (for economy), and retard the spark (so the engine does not knock). The cooling fan will run continuously, even though the engine is not up to normal operating temperature. (Your wife mentioned that the temp gauge hardly moved, remember?) It is reading a different sensor, and is working OK.

The bad part in all this, is that the CPS may be starting to fail as well, but ya gotta start somewhere, and this is the easier of the fixes, both time and $$ wise
 
  #8  
Old 12-18-2008, 09:31 PM
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The defective sensor (ECTS) on your engine is a two-wire device. The coolant temperature sensor for the gauge is a single wire device and does not need to be changed
 
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