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95 sl2 power door lock issue

  #1  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:05 PM
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Default 95 sl2 power door lock issue

Hey there, new member here. I tried checking around the threads and couldnt find any info of revelance so forgive me if this has been posted already. I picked up a 95 sl2 and its a great car but I'm having issues with the power door locks. The doors unlock and lock fine manually but when i try to use the power door lock switch i just hear a clicking at the relays and nothing happens, this is the same with all door lock switches in the car. Ive replaced both relays and that did nothing, trying to figure what else is getting in the way. Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 03-22-2017, 02:29 AM
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Hey, sorry your post got caught up in moderation --- the forum flagged it as possible "something". Sometimes it tells me, sometimes it doesn't.

To the question at hand:

Clicking at the relays in the fuse box?
How about any noises coming from the door itself?
If it is set up like the 95 coupes, there is a power lock solenoid mounted in each door that, when that relay is energized (which it sounds like it is), will shift its position and push either the paddle or the rods from locked to unlocked etc.

If you are getting relay clicking but no solenoid activity on all 4 doors simultaneously, I would guess that there is either a fuse issue or a wiring problem between the output side of the relay and the driver's door lock solenoid. May be an issue with burned wires on the underside of the fuse box or could just have a bad ground and therefore an open circuit.

After checking for fuse issues:
Take off the inner panel on the driver's door (there is a screw under the trim piece by the mirror so you must loosen) and find the door lock solenoid up by the door lock/unlock paddle. Pull the connector to it and check for V drop while holding the door lock in the lock position. If you get nothing, you know it is a wiring issue between the fusebox and that door lock solenoid.

I will not accept that all 4 went bad at once; I'm assuming they all used to work.
 
  #3  
Old 03-22-2017, 10:12 PM
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Hey thanks for the help derf, turns out it was a door lock fuse i overlooked... the previous owner had some weird multiple 12v adapter rigged into it that i pulled out shortly after purchasing the car leaving a bare fuse slot. When i put in a new 25 fuse, boom suddenly power door locks and my OEM 12v start working haha
 
  #4  
Old 03-23-2017, 07:30 AM
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Cool -- that's why I try to suggest the simple things first.
----------------
Just know that was designed to be a cigarette lighter (short current burst, on/off), not 12V cell phone charging circuit like today's newer cars (extended low current usage).

The wiring was spec'd for short burst current, not long derm low draw. The higher continuous currents may cause the pin (F2, F4, F5, changed by generation) on the back of the fuse box to melt. It shares a power distribution w the chime and...oh....the FUEL PUMP.

The previous owner was clearly aware of this, so he rigged up a contraption and ran it so that the current for the cig lighter was sourced through a circuit already designed to handle higher currents. Door locks are perfect because they draw 0 99.8% of the time.

Since you said he had multiple 12V outlets, he was likely pulling quite a few amps and may have had to do that in order to bypass an almost melted F2/F4/F5 pin on the interior fusebox.

It's not too hard to get at the back of that fuse interior block to inspect. The connection can be redone in most cases --but if it has already been redone, it may be too delicate to handle much more abuse, and you do not want your Fuel Pump cutting out on you at 65 on the highway because you were charging your phone.

I HIGHLY suggest you investigate this ASAP since the running of your vehicle depends on it---and of course, don't use the cig lighter till you check.

I'm betting on a partially burned mess (though I hope I'm wrong)

I'm surprised he/she did not pass this info on -- probably did not want to spook you.
 
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