1994 sl2
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From: conn.
thanks for the info, do you mean the sensor above the hi temp sensor that controls the fan,or is on the throtel body area,there are no sensors on air box intake.
Last edited by paulsl2; Jun 25, 2009 at 08:54 PM.
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From: Slightly off center
Per Low Saturn....
Depending on the year of the car and engine type it could mount in different places.
1991-1994 DOHCs, it screws into the bottom of the intake resonator that runs side to side along the radiator support. The bung is right before the tube that enters the bottom left of the airbox.
1991-1994 DOHCs, it screws into the bottom of the intake resonator that runs side to side along the radiator support. The bung is right before the tube that enters the bottom left of the airbox.
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From: conn.
Installed the IAT sensor ,All looked ok wire fine new sensor fit fine but still getting the (23) code, is the something I should done when I changed the sensor? Pull the ground wire on the battery? OR WHAT I'M LOOSING IT WITH THIS P.I.T.A. CAR,also getting crappy mpg any ideas?
Last edited by paulsl2; Jun 26, 2009 at 06:31 PM.
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From: Hudson Valley,NY
anytime you replace a part that creates a code, you want to pull the battery terminal, then turn on lights and hit the brake to make sure all juice in the system is out, then replace terminal. Gas milage being bad could be a variety of things. First clear the computer codes with method above and see if any new codes come up or if same one comes up even.
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From: Slightly off center
yes -- need to clear code.
As for crappy gas mileage -- you changed ECTS but did you change the connector too?
It's also possible that ECTS you installed is faulty. What is it's resistance at operating temp?
Failure usually causes the car to run crazy rich = crappy mpg....
As for crappy gas mileage -- you changed ECTS but did you change the connector too?
It's also possible that ECTS you installed is faulty. What is it's resistance at operating temp?
Failure usually causes the car to run crazy rich = crappy mpg....
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From: conn.
The sensor was connected to the tube going to the air box,I also cleared the codes by unhooking the batt., took it for a test drive ,now I am getting a (26) code its being a P.I.T.A again! Please help!!!
connector wire looks like brand new,dont have a meter handy my son has one he's in N.H. for weekend, what resistance should I have when I test it?
One other thing I have what feels like skipping when getting up to speed very slight but is there,not there when at speed?
connector wire looks like brand new,dont have a meter handy my son has one he's in N.H. for weekend, what resistance should I have when I test it?
One other thing I have what feels like skipping when getting up to speed very slight but is there,not there when at speed?
Last edited by paulsl2; Jun 27, 2009 at 10:29 AM.
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From: Slightly off center
From my other post
code 26 (quad driver output fault) is almost never the actual quad driver within the PCM itself; it is almost always something hanging off that circuit. This circuit is used to simultaneously monitor the status of
SES circuit
cooling fan relay
A/C clutch
Canister purge solenoid
EGR solenoid
Coolant Hot light
Upshift/Shift to D2 light
Speedometer Cutout
If any one (or more) of these have an issue, you'll get a code 26. EGR solenoid and cooling fan relay are most likely and easiest to check.
SES circuit
cooling fan relay
A/C clutch
Canister purge solenoid
EGR solenoid
Coolant Hot light
Upshift/Shift to D2 light
Speedometer Cutout
If any one (or more) of these have an issue, you'll get a code 26. EGR solenoid and cooling fan relay are most likely and easiest to check.
