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-   -   1994 sl2 (https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/engine-internal-16/1994-sl2-3373/)

paulsl2 06-15-2009 08:16 AM

1994 sl2
 
This morning I started the car all seemed normal, but when I started to drive it seemed like I was in high gear any ideas.
1994 sl2

derf 06-15-2009 08:39 PM

auto or 5 speed tranny?

paulsl2 06-20-2009 07:46 PM

sl2 trani truble
 
It ts a automatic 3 speed with overdrive ,I dont know what happened but it works fine now ,all I did was not drive it for a day? It has what looks like the original tranny filter, the fluid is clean dosnt smell burnt,is at fullmark, :cool:

paulsl2 06-20-2009 07:57 PM

Derf,I have a new problem the check engin light light keeps coming on at a stop then turns off when I get up to speed

OceanArcher 06-20-2009 09:13 PM

??? O2 sensor ???

Actually, best thing to do would be to download the codes stored up in the computer, and see what develops ....

derf 06-21-2009 05:04 AM

Indeed -- see https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/sh...ighlight=codes for detailed instructions on pulling ODB I codes (compliments of OA). You can use a paper clip to connect the A and B terminals...

Please post codes here and we will help you sort it out....

paulsl2 06-25-2009 04:09 PM

thanks!

paulsl2 06-25-2009 04:22 PM

found how to pull code trying now

paulsl2 06-25-2009 04:34 PM

I was able to pull the code it was 12 first then it flashed (23) what is that?

derf 06-25-2009 07:04 PM

code 23 = air temperature sensor circuit out of range, low.

Check connector at/wiring to the temp sensor in the air box or air intake -- it is probably not making good contact -- or sensor is itself defective.

The intake air temp (IAT) sensor can be replaced with the same sensor as the ECTS -- they are identical. Evaluate need to replace connector (squeeze to release). Use brass tipped OEM style replacement.

Note: I recently replaced the IAT sensor on my 95 SC2. The part that the sensor threads into has a square base which was actually encased in the plastic. It was rusted pretty nasty. I ended up actually removing the sensor and mounting piece as a unit, then getting some torque on the old sensor while being able to hold the square piece.

Reassembled by wedging the square base back into the plastic. Not textbook, but fully functional

paulsl2 06-25-2009 08:51 PM

thanks for the info, do you mean the sensor above the hi temp sensor that controls the fan,or is on the throtel body area,there are no sensors on air box intake.
:confused:

derf 06-25-2009 09:52 PM

Per Low Saturn....

Originally Posted by Low Saturn (Post 13088)
Depending on the year of the car and engine type it could mount in different places.

1991-1994 DOHCs, it screws into the bottom of the intake resonator that runs side to side along the radiator support. The bung is right before the tube that enters the bottom left of the airbox.


paulsl2 06-26-2009 11:52 AM

Just got the sensor it is the same as the one I installed for the fan

paulsl2 06-26-2009 06:18 PM

Installed the IAT sensor ,All looked ok wire fine new sensor fit fine but still getting the (23) code, is the something I should done when I changed the sensor? Pull the ground wire on the battery? OR WHAT I'M LOOSING IT WITH THIS P.I.T.A. CAR,also getting crappy mpg any ideas?

SaturnSL1999 06-26-2009 11:01 PM

anytime you replace a part that creates a code, you want to pull the battery terminal, then turn on lights and hit the brake to make sure all juice in the system is out, then replace terminal. Gas milage being bad could be a variety of things. First clear the computer codes with method above and see if any new codes come up or if same one comes up even.

derf 06-27-2009 07:08 AM

yes -- need to clear code.

As for crappy gas mileage -- you changed ECTS but did you change the connector too?
It's also possible that ECTS you installed is faulty. What is it's resistance at operating temp?

Failure usually causes the car to run crazy rich = crappy mpg....

paulsl2 06-27-2009 10:13 AM

The sensor was connected to the tube going to the air box,I also cleared the codes by unhooking the batt., took it for a test drive ,now I am getting a (26) code its being a P.I.T.A again! Please help!!!
connector wire looks like brand new,dont have a meter handy my son has one he's in N.H. for weekend, what resistance should I have when I test it?
One other thing I have what feels like skipping when getting up to speed very slight but is there,not there when at speed?

derf 06-27-2009 11:19 AM

code 26 = Quad Driver Output Fault. Actually we are making progress. search forum for quad driver as I just explained this in another post recently.

paulsl2 06-27-2009 12:06 PM

I looked for half hour cant find (quad driver output fault) please advise where to find it

derf 06-27-2009 03:15 PM

From my other post


Originally Posted by derf (Post 15006)
code 26 (quad driver output fault) is almost never the actual quad driver within the PCM itself; it is almost always something hanging off that circuit. This circuit is used to simultaneously monitor the status of

SES circuit
cooling fan relay
A/C clutch
Canister purge solenoid
EGR solenoid
Coolant Hot light
Upshift/Shift to D2 light
Speedometer Cutout

If any one (or more) of these have an issue, you'll get a code 26. EGR solenoid and cooling fan relay are most likely and easiest to check.


paulsl2 06-29-2009 05:02 PM

Pulled batt ground wire & cleaned egr it was full of carbon ,I mean it was packed full I was sure I found the problem cleaned out all crap in egr used air to get it out of ports in motor sprayed egr with cleaner & wd40 nice an free.
Took it for a test ride code 26 again the light dos'nt come on as fast! has a little better pick up now..frustrated!

derf 06-29-2009 09:50 PM

Go down the list I posted and troubleshoot in that order.....

paulsl2 07-01-2009 08:16 AM

thanks for the info. about things to check, where can I find the ses circit,canister purg solenoid,coolant hot light,upshift/shift to D2 light,speedometer cutout.
If you can get me a quick list of locations I am confedent I will get this resolved thanks again

paulsl2 07-01-2009 08:20 AM

saturn sl2 4 door auto trans. 1.9 dohc
please help I need to find the problem it runs fine but that darn light keeps coming on at a stop.

paulsl2 07-05-2009 07:15 PM

today i worked on the saturn for a hour and a half cleaned all sensors and checked all the circuits and I still have the code 26 is there something else it can be other than the things listed?

derf 07-06-2009 06:57 AM

Does the light only come on at a stop, then go off once you get moving? IF the light only comes on when you come to a stop, it sounds to be an EGR related issue, since EGR is trying to close at that point

If the egr is trying to close but can't get all the way closed (hanging up), the PCM may be blaming that on what it thinks is an EGR solenoid issue, since it has commanded the EGR to close but it is not closing all the way.

With key off, measure the resistance of EGR solenoid -- it should be 22-42 Ohms. If not, replace.

Personally, I would also pull the EGR again and truly ensure the pintle has a full range of motion, and that there is no carbon crap left in the passages which would cause the pintle to hang up.

There is also the possibility that your EGR valve may need replacing --sometimes a cleaning isn't good enough, or the motor that actuates it goes bad from the strain a clogged uneasy to move EGR puts on it.

Go for a second EGR cleaning and the Solenoid resistance test.

Post results before you run out and buy a new EGR as they are pricey.

paulsl2 07-06-2009 08:44 PM

Yes the light comes on only when I come to a stop then 5 to 10 seconds later it turns on then when getting up to speed it turns off ,the time I am at speed it dos'nt come on at all, Thanks for the tip,but my solenoid is a vacuum type,but I will give a real good cleaning.lets see what happens?!!?

derf 07-06-2009 11:29 PM

Although the EGR system on your 94 is vacuum operated, there is still an EGR solenoid present. The EGR vacuum is controlled by the PCM, which energizes or de-energizes the EGR solenoid by providing or witholding ground as necessary. When the solenoid is energized, it prevents vacuum from reaching the EGR valve by venting it to the atmosphere. Under approrpiate conditions, the PCM removes the ground which de-energizes the solenoid and allows the vacuum to open the EGR valve.

The EGR valve is open only when the throttle is open more than 4 percent and coolant temp is above 104 F.

As far as correlating to SES light behavior, the EGR is probably not closing all the way when you come to a stop and the throttle is < 4% open. Likewise, once you get going, the EGR does open (even if sluggishly) and the light goes out....

I would still do the EGR solenoid resistance check (note I corrected the value above)

Correct spec is 22-42 Ohms for the EGR solenoid.

Also, check for vacuum leaks .....

paulsl2 07-07-2009 06:05 AM

My E G R is controlled by vacuum derectly off my throtle body ,no power involved at all,I allready checked for vacuum leaks in the lines ?!?!

derf 07-07-2009 06:15 AM

So the vacuum lines don't run to anything else on the way to the EGR?
Such was the case for 91-93, and in 95 they went to electrically actuated.
I am not aware of 94 being different ....(???) can you post a pic?

derf 07-07-2009 11:03 PM

indeed this is the egr solenoid. Check the resistance across its terminals

paulsl2 07-08-2009 03:35 PM

I worked on the egr again pin not bound up, cleaned & lubed, checked ohms 8.78 i know that is low ,what are my options?

derf 07-09-2009 01:29 AM

replace egr solenoid

derf 07-17-2009 06:23 AM

Paul----any updates?

OceanArcher 07-17-2009 07:41 AM

hhmmmmmm ...

Maybe this is one of those instances where 'no news is good news' ....

paulsl2 07-29-2009 10:51 AM

Was away for a while good to be back ,time to get to work on my 94 SL2 (still have the 26 code happining)
I wish it was one of those instances where no news was good news

paulsl2 07-31-2009 11:08 AM

I was talking with some people about the problems with my sl2 (i.e.) slugish responce , cappy gas mileage ,skipping at 2100-2400 rpm's they say change the o2 sensors? what do you think.

derf 07-31-2009 09:20 PM

I think you should first change your egr solenoid which you already have determined is out of spec

paulsl2 08-01-2009 08:25 PM

going on vacation will have to wait to get parts
see u
paulsl2

paulsl2 08-11-2009 12:34 PM

Back from vacation, changed oil looks like gold, next changed egr solenoid , still code 26 help please!


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