I did try bending the window frame a bit, maybe I'll try again...I cracked a frame once doing that, so I cringe when I attempt it...even gingerly. It's the illumination lights that don't work at all..any of them. I played with the dimmer switch, and nothing changed, but I will squirt some contact cleaner into that and see if it helps. The blinkers work, and I can hear the flasher clicking, but no indicator lights on the dash. This car has drum brakes on the back, and it feels like the left front rotor is the culprit. I'm pretty sure I'll have to address that issue to sell this thing, as it really shakes at hiway speed applying the brakes, but I am also thinking that could be the bad CV joint...and I do not think I'm going to go to that expense...

 

The backlighting, "flood" lighting, left and right turn signal indicators share a common ground in the form of ---you guessed it--an Instrument Panel Splice Pack of black wires

Two black wires attach at positions X and O (??) of the IP Cluster, , then dive into an I/P splice pack. Probably a corroded ground in there or where it meets the chassis. Should not be too hard to find. Shouldn't need to pull the cluster -- I would expect the wires to be part of a connector.

Check your 10A HAZARD fuse if the hazards don't work. Also check it if the high beam indicator does not work. That's what the schematic says. The hi beam dash indicator appears to be grounded through the headlamp switch.
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All the rest of the telltales on the IP cluster except the ABS and illum for the Rear defog are grounded through the same IP splice pack as above.
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ABS and rear defog bulb grounded via different ground splice pack, but can't be far from the other one.
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So he who finds bad grounds is rewarded with many many colored blinking lights, and gets to charge more for car )

Enjoy.

Derf

 

Well, I found a buyer for the car. I didn't have to, but I told them I would try to find the blinker indicator problem. Couldnt find the grounding block, and since I had to pull the dash out to get the bottom plastic panel beneath the steering wheel, I just pulled the instrument cluster. Now, there has always been a question in my mind, why there seems to be so much rust all over any exposed metal...submersion had always been a remote possibility in my mind...well, now, under the top dash panel, there is weird debris, and I can see where the padding underneath there has sagged where the water sat. Car has been submerged, sure as hell...all but three of the cluster bulbs are blown. I never paid that much attention to the dash lights, I guess... geez...luckily the car is 90 percent plastic!! This explains a lot! wow

 

For ****s's sake how does the engine run?

Maybe it just filled up the interior w water (w window down).

 

It runs like a top...obviously once they dried the thing out from the flood, they changed the oil, and the like, and got it running again. But that explains why the throwout bearing disintegrated.

 

I meant how does the engine not get hydrolocked from water coming in the intake?

If the water zapped all but three bulbs it was likely above the TBI inlet. Musta been one hell of a tight spring on the butterfly plate and not submerged for too long at that water height.

Well, I think you're in the running for the most repeatedly abused living numbers matching saturns still on the road.

Did you get the dash lights fixed? (I like stories that end well, even though in today's world that is quite rare)

 

Yeah, they musta pulled the plugs, and ran the water out. It's been quite a journey with the car!! I'm waiting for the bulbs from ebay, I couldnt afford them here in town...
$2.50 a pop here, 50 cents off ebay...I'll let you know if they light up

 

So, I got the bulbs. To get to the instrument cluster, you have to pop the little covers off of the top of the dash panel, and remove the screws. Pry up the near edge with a screwdriver, and pop it loose. lift it up a couple inches, which releases the alignment pins on either side, and then pull it toward you, it is held at the windshield by a couple of clips, which the dash brackets slide under. Now there is just a few screws that holds on the next panel, and it pops loose, you have to kinda work it out of there, around the AC vents, and you have to drop the steering wheel tilt down. There are a couple of plugs on that panel to deal with. Take the R. defog switch connector loose first, it's easy...use a small screwdriver, push in the 'catch' , the plug comes out easy, now you can tilt the panel, to get access to the dimmer switch connection, which is more difficult, because the 'release' is on the back side. Once that is out of the way, take out the screws for the cluster, and pull it toward you a little bit, and flip it over..rotate it toward the windshield, which will give you easy access to the back side, and the plug , which is held on by three clips, release the bottom one first, and the other two come out easy. So, I bought 'blue' LED replacement bulbs for the cluster...mistake! They are not bright enough. I had to use a couple of the other working bulbs to replace the blinker indicators, to see them well enough. Not only that!! Once I got it back together, my SES light wants to keep coming on. Code 26. Quad driver. It relates to the bulbs, and the milliamps difference between regular bulbs, and the LED's ?? Tried several different 'reset' for the SES...it just kept popping back on. sheesh....I took the stupid thing back apart and replaced the bulb with a burned out one, and now I have to tell the buyer why that annoying light won't work, so now, somewhere down the line, if someone wants to pull the codes, they'll have to go in there and replace the bulb....my my my

 

You are an incredibly tenacious troubleshooter and I for one applaud that.

Read

OBDI Code 26 Quad Driver Output...what does it mean? - SaturnFans.com Forums

Even if you're not pursuing it any further.

Until the bulbs are replaced you will likely get a code 26 but there are many other causes.

Any buyer expecting this vehicle to be trouble free for what I'm guessing you're selling it for is a dreamer. You've already done more than 98%/of people would on a submerged rainsoaked vehicle. At least if you tell them the ses needs replacing and hand them this article, you are being 100% honest as to what MAY be causk causing the code 26. Bulbs may be all, but there may be other issues on the same QDM besides that. Be sure to read the entire thread.

Let us know if you continue the chase. The more you fix, the more $$ in your pocket

 

that was a great read. My shift up light is now not working, and it used to. Posssibly the culprit. The ses light was not on before I messed with bulbs, so it must be related! My education continues. The buyer is supposed to pick this car up tomorrow. I have always been completely upfront with anyone I've sold to, telling them everything I know is wrong with their purchase. My karma has always returned that favor, 10 fold, and I will always count on that. Thanks for the help on this journey, Derf