Update. Ever since that EGR was replaced, I've gone from running at about 2000 peak rpms, now it's pretty consistent at 1500. Over the weekend, my starter motor crapped out. Had to push start it a day later, as a result the car was running at 2200 consistently for about 5 mins. After which, I was gearing down to first ahead of a stop sign when the rpms settled to 800 or so (normal). I had just barely, nearly imperceptibly pressed the gas at that point and the rpms started rising all by themselves. Not sure what that all means, but perhaps that is valuable context for you all... Will hopefully be able to work on the rest of the issues after this starter gets fixed.... gotta love it

 

The lifter noise I described is now gone. However, after replacing the starter, it is making this new noise upon startup that isn't going away. Almost like a high pitched wine, I'll attach a sound clip. I suspect the starter was not correctly installed and is to blame for this new noise.

 

How did you get rid of the so-called lifter noise?

Did it go away on its own or did it go away when you replaced the starter?

Did you install a new serpentine belt with the new starter?

I listened to that clip about 10 times, and I don't hear anything out of the ordinary. Maybe the difference is the tension on The serpentine belt with the new starter installed?

 

1. The lifter noise went away on its own. It had disappeared before I replaced the starter.

2. No, I did not install a new serpentine belt

3. I'll try to get better audio. I'll assume you meant starter and not alternator. I have not touched the alternator

Thanks for the response!

 

All I can hear from the sound clip is the normal whine the serpentine belt makes while the car is running. You probably never noticed it above the lifter noise and now that it's gone, you can hear it. That's my 2 cents worth. I'm not a mechanic, but I've been working on my own cars and various friends and family for over 50 years.

 

All, I'll just see if the noise goes away, it might just be the new starter gear interfacing with the old worn teeth of the existing flywheel.

I replaced the ECTS over the weekend, the existing ECTS I pulled actually looked a lot like the Delphi one that I had bought. Additionally, I replaced the old sparkplugs and wires. So far, there doesnt seem to be much of a change to that idle issue, but I'll monitor it over the week and report back. My next thoughts are the MAP sensor? Not really sure.

Thanks all

 

Did you use the stock NGK plugs? If not, go get some.
It does matter.
And they are dirt cheap

 

Yes. NGK BKR4ESA-11

 

Update: I've now cleaned the entire throttlebody assembly, including sensors (IAC and TPS). For what its worth, the IAC was pretty dirty. Since cleaning, I can't say definitively it has helped. It seems like while the engine is colder the idle rpms are fine, and when Ipress the clutch in, the rpms drop at a normal speed. However as it warms up it is now idling closer to 2k. I'm starting to run out of ideas, though I think the rpms are dropping slightly when that bucking happens. I've been noticing the bucking more when the rpms are lower, around 1200.

 

You indicate when cold, the idle rpms are fine.

What RPM is that around ?
You also said the RPMs drop normally when you put the clutch in. Did they drop all the way down to idle if you push in and hold the clutch down? If so, to what RPM and is it consistent?

Is the bucking only when cold (the clutch is cold)? Does it behave differently if you let it idle for 20 minutes then drive versus letting it warm up for 4 minutes and drive? Behave differently with respect to the bucking?

When you start the car from a cold soak, please describe the RPMs as a function of time as the vehicle warms up. Please do it using approximate numbers so that we can understand the relative progression of the RPMs from cold to warmed up.

Does your car stop bucking after you've made 10 or 20 shifts?