just remember that if it doesn't fire at all, none of what you sprayed has combusted. Therefore, it's easy to lose track of the fact that you've sprayed 15 shots of fluid in there, none of which has burned.

I think the excess in liquid form will drain back out of the throttle body, but you get the point.

was more an issue w carburetors.

 

Well, common sense tells you if it doesn't fire at all, not to keep spraying the starting fluid. Ever heard of Einsteins definition of INSANITY? LOL So did you try the starting fluid and if so, what happened?

 

So I tried the starting fluid but it didn't look like it was sucking into the throttle body at all. I got a flashlight and had her turn it over and the throttle body isn't opening at all, I manually held it and we tried with the fluid but did not start, I think I heard it sparking from the open throttle body but i'm not positive .. just sounded weird to me.

 

if it's not running, you're not gonna get that vacuum being pulled and the accompanying suction sound.

If you are not touching the gas while trying to start (which you should not be doing), then the throttle plate shouldn't be moving. Is the throttle cable intact?
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Have you checked ALL the fuses, especially the ones labeled IGN (I think there are 3, the Fuel Pump fuse , Injectors fuse, and the PCM fuses? Pull them and check.
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Also, what is the security system light doing? Is is solid, blinking, etc?

 

I don't see any security system light anywhere but I do see the dash says security when I turn the key then that disappears, checked all the fuses in the box by the battery and they are all good. Is there only the one fuse box?

 

ok so I rented a compression tester and from 1-4 she has 40, 15, 30 and 0 compression.
And 0 fuel pressure either...

 

Ummm, yeah.... those should be about 180......no way it will run as is. Spend no more $$ until you decide what this car means to you.


Maybe it blew a head gasket (in a big way), though a completely dead cyl is usually indicative of a burned valve or ring/piston issues.


If the car had been maintained, I'd say MAYBE you'd want to consider rebuilding it, but if it's been running on 1/2 a quart of oil, I wouldn't bother, since the lower internals and the head have been oil starved for who knows how long.


It's cheaper to buy a compatible used engine and install that, though in that case you also have no idea of engine health either, though some who sell them do know if they were running prior to the wreck/etc that made them available. But they/you won't know about compression, oil burning, etc.


But a running engine moves the car, while an engine whose sum of compression readings is less than 100 does not.


It's a manual, but you don't know if it shifts properly when running (putting in gear while off is a basic diagnostic but not always indicative of shifting ability once running; may have bad synchro gears rendering certain gears unusable, etc.


I don't know how much you paid for the car, but if it were mine, I'd part it out.


There ARE people that will buy "dead" engines and do full rebuilds on them and turn a profit. Or they may have the need for an engine and/or tranny for their car and be willing to take both at once. Try to sell the whole car as is for a price you won't cry over---easiest way to unload it -- while disclosing issues. IF no luck, try selling engine and tranny together, as they are removed from the car as a unit (usually).


If the body panels are in decent shape you should be able to part them out, but shipping costs are prohibitive so local pickups on those only.


The interior stuff if in good condition (dash, inst panel, seats, shifter assembly) can also be sold)


I think what happened here is that the car might have been maintained by the previous previous owner, who sold it to the guy you bought it from, who kept up with no maintenance and did not watch the oil level, leading to the catastrophic internal engine failure. The starter probably got burned up trying to start it after it just stopped running. Battery bad and corrosion from sitting so long.


There is no way for that car to make it to 180K if neglected from the start.


Another sad case of ignorance killing an otherwise useable Satty.




But it's your call as to how to proceed

 

Sounds like the timing chain broke or skipped timing. Pull the valve cover/camshaft cover and look for bent valves. I can't remember if the 1.9 is non-interference or not. If it's non-interference and your comfortable doing the work yourself, you could get it running again. There might be other issues due to lack of maintenance though. If you can get what you paid for it out of it as it sits that might be the better option.

 

True dat. Selling as is is less messy.

Unfortunately, the 1.9's are interference engines. If the timing chain breaks, you hear it as gurgling metal tangled up in the crank sprocket. No reports of metal on metal contact sounds so I kinda ruled that out on the lack of symptom reported. If the timing chain slipped significantly enough it could and would be expected to bend the valves. However, with all the cranking going on trying to get the car to start, if chain slippage is to blame, I think the valves, guides, seals, maybe pistons and who knows what will cost him more than he paid for it. Plus the oil related neglect probably ended up scoring the cyl liners.

Scoffman's idea to try to sell as is as a parts car first is a good one.
But if you plan to do so, don't pop the cam cover off. If you see what's wrong, you need to disclose that to the buyer. However, if you don't have knowledge of the details of its current internal status, there's nothing to share other than the compression results.

 

Pathseeker, when you measured compression, did you at least have the throttle wide open? If no air is getting to the cylinders, then you will get bad readings.