Starter replacement

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  #11  
Old 04-22-2024, 12:32 AM
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Try putting it in third gear to get the selector arm out of the way.
 
  #12  
Old 04-22-2024, 04:24 PM
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I actually saw that 3rd gear suggestion in the comments of a YouTube video , I had to put power to battery back, then able to change gears, didn't see anything different. I'm gonna ask someone to change the gear while I look. In the meantime I ordered a flexhead wrench, fingers crossed lol
 
  #13  
Old 04-25-2024, 05:28 PM
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So I managed to take off the starter and top bolt, few extensions through where the alternator is, kind doing it blind but totally possible. Put in new starter and rebuilt alternator, still one click. Also click when I take out relay and jump with wire. Strange , I'm only getting 3v at starter motor
 
  #14  
Old 04-25-2024, 08:44 PM
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What happens with 12V on the starter itself?
 
  #15  
Old 04-25-2024, 09:22 PM
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Run a lead from the battery straight to solenoid ? To see if it starts?
going to do more testing tomorrow , the guy who rebuilt my statrer asked me if blew a fuse, he showed me the condition of the stator ....

So I have a feeling some wiring or fuse ? I checked many fuses and relays , checked out ok
 

Last edited by Banton; 04-25-2024 at 09:24 PM.
  #16  
Old 04-25-2024, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Banton
Run a lead from the battery straight to solenoid ? To see if it starts?
going to do more testing tomorrow , the guy who rebuilt my statrer asked me if blew a fuse, he showed me the condition of the stator ....

So I have a feeling some wiring or fuse ? I checked many fuses and relays , checked out ok
That's not going to be a low current issue. I'd like to see that stator.
 
  #17  
Old 04-25-2024, 10:22 PM
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Your right , for sure that would not be the low current problem. Had the alternator rebuilt due to many other symptoms prior, perhaps that may even have caused my current problems
 
  #18  
Old 04-26-2024, 02:46 PM
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Ran positive power straight to starter, turn key and starts. Without the the jump line, starter was 3 v or so. Alternator was same. My gut told me it's the wiring harness , I took it out, from battery, under car to starter to alternator, tested it and no continuity between positive line. Ripped all the tape off and what do you know, a 175amp in line fuse. Called for the part but it's discontinued and almost $400 lol. So , im gonna search for an in line fuse and rig it back in.
Guys , if your car battery light comes on and you suspect the alternator, stop driving as quick as you can to avoid more problems!!!! Try and diagnose and fix the issue. I drove it thinking it was the battery, car bogged badly, drove it home and wouldn't start anymore , just 1 click when turning key. Alternator blew that inline fuse

 
  #19  
Old 04-26-2024, 07:10 PM
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Just in case anyone runs into this bad harness, here's what I did, buy a fuse canadian tire has one for $11. Break the original fuse with a hammer, cut the ends with a grinder so they're square, drill a hole on each side of your cable. Now use a bolt with nut to connect each side , tighten and tape back the harness . Easy as that . Took some pics to share.
Re install harness , but have fun getting back perfect lol.

Car started right up, check battery running and it's over 14v . Finally !



 

Last edited by Banton; 04-26-2024 at 07:15 PM.
  #20  
Old 04-26-2024, 07:36 PM
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Great, we use mega fuses all the time at work. The new Ford trucks have a non replaceable 250 amp fuse for the alternator. I made a couple short jumpers and installed a mega fuse. Been working fine for 100k miles on that truck.
 


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