Hi im new here and new to saturns. I just picked up this saturn a little over a month for pretty cheap. Never thought id own a 4 banger but the way gas prices are going i have no choice. Anyway, i like the car besides the fact that it has a very limited interior space, alot smaller than my Trans am.Im used to working on older GM's so most of this computer crap throws me in a loop sometimes. lol


Anyway, heres my problem. When i first bought the car i knew it had this idle problem so I gave it a full tune up and blasted out the throttle body with carb cleaner. Same problem. Car idles at or around 2000 or more RPM's. Sometimes it will idle normal for a little while, like 5 mins of driving, but then will go back up to that idle speed again. Sometimes if the idle is high and i punch it (WOT) for about 1/4 mile, when icome to a stop it will idle at normal, as if i blew out some carbon,for about 5 mins. So far, i assumed the IAC was bad so i changed it and same problem. I checked the trouble codes with a jumper wire and it sent out code 35, if i remember corectly, which in my trans am book is a trouble code for IAC. All GM trouble codes are very much alike from about '78-'96 so its a good ground to start at. I changed out the IAC and same problemsmileys/smiley5.gif. What do I DO?????


The other thing I checked was the signal going to the IAC. I think its supposed to be something like 4.8-10.0 ? My reading was over the max number. It was somewhere like 11.4, Does this mean the computer is bad? Sorry for the long post and any help would be appreciated... Thanks ~Vinny

xvin..................check all hoses, intake, tb base, for vacuum leaks. Check to make sure the tb plate is not sticking to the side of the tb. Good Luck

Indeed, code 35 is IAC - rpm out of range.
0 to is 10.75V is expected range for a Saturn of this vintage - so 11.4 indeed is out of range high.

Definitely sounds like vacuum leak. Spray some throttle body cleaner around the intake, vacuum lines and TB (per SW2cam) -- when the idle jumps while you're doing this, you'll have found the leak.

Derf

________

Also, change ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) and connector -- original design for these sensors was poor and fails. Bogus temp readings to PCM mess up air/fuel mix and car runs like poopy -- mix usually too rich. Replace connector too--leaking coolant corrodes contacts.

Use Saturn replacement (brass tip design, comes with new connector).

Thanks for the responses..


I did the check all the vacuum lines and they are all connected and in good shape. Also sprayed the throttle body with carb cleaner and got no response.


Could the ECTS really cause such a headach? I did check that out as well and it looked to be in really good shape, visual check only. I didnt remove it just check it and even the wire looks to be in good shape.My temp gauge wroks great too, seems to be right on the money. BUT, if in fact this is bad, would this explain the bad smell that occurs after I floor it?


Keep 'em comming, i need to fix this as its sucking up alot of gas with out my concent..


Thanks again, ~Vinny

Yep the temp senson can cause all sorts of things when it sends wronginfo to the computer. If you change the sensor also replace the connector as derf said. Both can be had at your Saturn dealer. Edited by: sw2cam

What about buying it at my local parts supplier? like Autozone, Parts athourity ect....... What does the dealer charge for this?


Thanks again, Vin


P.S.- Forgot to ask. Does anyone know of an aftermarket supplier for our Saturns that carry parts like weather stripping body panels interior replacement stuff ect........ Thanks

I believe connector is a Saturn-only part (for which they whack you for $20 or $30).

93's have two temp sensors -- one goes to the pcm and the other goes to the gauge on the dash. the ECTS is the two-wire sensor -- that's the one to replace. Be specific when requesting your replacement.

Also, visual inspection without removal is not sufficient to determine whether it has failed. If you don't already see a spliced-in replacement connector under the hood, chances are it has never been replaced or if it was, someone cheaped and did not replace the connector.

TRUST US. Go to Saturn parts dept & pay the piper. $40 ish and not worth the hassle to do otherwise.

Derf

Ok, im gonna go and get this damn part, lol. Ill stop at the dealer tomorrow on the way home from work and ill install it as soon as i get home. Ill keep you guys posted on the results.


So, Saturn Aftermarket dealers????????


Thanks~Vinny

Wait for the engine to cool down....you'll lose much less coolant and will keep from burning your hands..... smileys/smiley2.gif

Any luck with the repair.....................?

Hey. Firts thing, I replaced the temp sensor with a GM dealer part and it did help it out ALOT. In fact i thought it fixed the problem completly, which is why i didnt post anything yesterday saying the problem is solved. I wanted a day of driving to make sure if everything was ok.


So, now instead of the idle being too high, it sometimes idles too low. Otherwise it runs at a normal speed.smileys/smiley5.gif Now, it will rarely run high, between 1300-1600 rpm's in N, mostly run normal 900-1100 rpm's in N, and sometimes a bit lower than 900.


Driving light to light normally it seems to be ok. If i need to floor it or put a load on the enging to pass or whatever, as soon as i come to a stop, 8 out of ten times she stalls out.?


At night with the ligts on, A/C running or not, the idle drops even more and stalls out more often. In other words the more accessories i have running it puts more of a loadon the idle and the IAC ( idle air control valve) is not compensating for this. That Temp sensor did in fact help out and i do think my old one was badd anyway. I did'nt change the pig tail (connector) because mine looked to be in great shape and i tested thevolts from the lineseveral times and every time i got the same reading so im assuming this connector is working properly and i couldnt see replacing it. That STUPID little connector costs about 35 bones!? WHAT A RIP OFF. I dont mindspending the $$it but if i dont need to then im not. So im gonna return the part.


So, now im going to go out side and do a few more things or test to see about that IAC. OH YEA, also, the trouble code 35 came back again last night. Which is a code for IAC, so thats whay im going to go and see what kind of voltage is going to it.


Any Other ideas what this might be? Any other steps i might need to take after replacing that sensor? Ill post back in a bit.


THANKS, ~Vinny

Ok heres the latest update. I re-adjusted the Idle speed and the car ran perfect. Just like yesterday though, It fooled me. During the test drive everything was perfect.I stopped off for a coffee, shut the car off and when i came out about 5 mins later and started it i had no problems at all and the idle was still right where itshould be.


When I got home and let the car rest a bit it did the same crap as it always does.smileys/smiley19.gifIt idlesfrom high to low but now its more on the hight side most of the time.


Before I went on the test drive i tested the volts to the TPS and the IAC. These were the readings.


TPS- closed=0.33 and Opened=4.44


IAC-10.5 10.7 10.9


MyIAC gave me diffrent readings every other time i checked it. The book calls for the readings to fluctuate between 1.5 and 10.5volts. So i still have a problem with the signal comming from the PCM, right?


For the TPS, the book calls for below 1.25 closed and approximately 5 volts. So i should be good here, right ?


Am I missing something here? Im not sure what else to do or look for. Im at the point where I think I need to change the PCM but I dont want to spend ALL that money on a new PCM if the PCM is not the problem.


Thanks so far, Vinny

Ok, heres the latest. I replaced the IAC with another new one and now the idle is worse.


Ive come to the conclution the the PCM is bad so im just gonna replace it. Where can i get one cheap?


~Vinny