Bought a 2007 Saturn vue hybrid 2.2.
The car sat for 5 years.
To get it running I used fogging oil down each cylinder
Replaced map sensor.
Changed oil 5w30.
Drained gas, added fresh gas.
New battery.

Car starts now, runs for 3 seconds, stumbles like it runs out of gas. The quits.
I removed catalytic converter, same issue
Fuel gauge reads just over 50.and still 50.when it dies.

I bought the xtool d8 bidirectional scanner.
I go to special features. Try and command fuel relay to turn on and off, Ac relay, fan relay etc..
The scanner says communicating, the goes to on.
​​​​​but the relays won't click at all.
They do click when I start the car.

I'm wondering if it's an ECM problem.
Reads on an obd2 just fine including live data.

I've replaced the ignition key lock cylinder with new key too.
Security light turns on when I turn the key, and goes out the second it starts.

Don't think it's a security issue.

Any reason why the scan tool won't command relays under the hood, but will command BCM no problem.

Any ideas how I can get this to stay running.
Thanks.
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I don't know that tool. You are in special tests/relays is that correct?

 

Correct. I send the ECU a command, ECU accepts command, says relay on, but nothing happens.

It's like the ECU accepts it, says relay is on, but nothing happened.

No power actually goes to the relay though scan tool.

Also. There's no obd2 codes.

 

Security relearn after ignition switch replacement?
Ignition switch or cylinder only? Match for Vue or universal POS?
Clear rodent's nest from air intake?

Injector flow test? Enough gas actually coming out to keep car running?
Fuel filter gummed/clogged?

​​​​​What codes did you pull so far?

 

Sorry. Posts crossed in cyberspace. If you have a different key but the same ignition switch, I'm not sure if that will work. Passlock wise. Not even sure when they switched to transponder keys but will look.

Also, the tool does not provide power to the relay, the relay is usually closed via closing a circuit to ground within the ECM.

 

2007 VUE is not a transponder key so we will assume passlock so in theory if the new key does not have the resistance value that the original ignition switch passlock sensor is looking for, then you would definitely have to do a relearn to have a chance at it working.

Upon further reflection, if the key doesn't match the sensor, the key doesn't match the sensor and I don't know that you can change that with a relearn.

I'd put the old key and cylinder back in if the car behaves no differently, and then do a passlock relearn

 

I'm doubting it's a security issue as the security light goes out.
I also did the 30 minute relearn test after the key lock cylinder was replaced.
Car also did the same with the old cylinder and key.

I will replace the fuel filter, and find all the grounds in around the engine and fuse box. Will clean up and attach.

Quite possibly, from sitting, maybe the grounds are all messed up and fuel filter.

​​​​​​My fuel gauge shows 50 psi when started and it still reads 50 when it stumbles and dies off.

I can hold the pedal down and it tries to stay running longer, it bogs then quits.

 

Pressure does not guarantee flow.
In this case, the fuel pressure regulator is integral to the fuel filter, so the fuel pressure is limited at the filter.
The system can be fully properly pressurized at 50 psi and still have technically not a drop of fuel flowing through the injectors.

Remove the air intake stuff and try feeding it starting fluid spray can directly into the throttle body. Be very very careful not to spray it elsewhere as it is exceptionally flammable.

Do this on a cold engine.

What you are trying to see is if you give it enough starting fluid as a semicontinuous feed, will it continue to run after the fogger burns off. Remember this stuff is very flammable so do not spray a large amount into the throttle body over and over and over if the vehicle has not started and ran. That just creates a big pocket of flammable vapor in the intake and when it does get to the cylinders it combusts in a very robust manner.

 

Thank you.
Will try that.
I know gas is flowing good up to the engine, because I used the fuel test port to drain the fuel into a gas can, however, I had to use a jumper wire in the relay fuse box to do so.

Just leaving the key in the on position, primed the pump, but cut off the fuel after the prime cycle.

(I think that's normal, but not 100%)

 

You should not need to do that with everything functioning properly. It should prime itself for three or four seconds when you turn the key to on. The only exception seems to be if you try to prime it, it primes, then you turn off and remove the key and wait 0.5 seconds, reinsert the key, and turn to on. Basically I think if the pressure is already high enough that it does not prime..

I believe there is also a fuel pump relay test button near the fuel pump relay in the IPJB for troubleshooting purposes.