what to use for the o ring/gasket sealant?
Have I heard that you don't really even need a sealant?
The "instructions" that came with the pump say to use a tacky sealant.
So you really just need something to hold it in place and using too much sealant may actually allow a leak?

The only thing I have on hand is a little packet of blue RTV that has been floating around my garage for probably 10+ years (sealed, but still seems questionable).
I know very little about sealants, so be specific
I am looking at copper gasket spray ($$), blue rtv spray ($$$), or tube of permatex waterpump rtv ($).

When I had a previous WP replacement done, the engine mount and a/c was removed and the engine got moved up/down to get access to the bolts.
But is it possible to get access to all the bolts without moving the engine?
I do have some articulating adapters for my sockets (all hand tools for me!). I was going to pull the tire off (not a trivial thing for me to do and I've actually never removed the splash shields!) so hopefully I should be able to see if I have the right angles and clearances to get my wrench in there? I recall there being some debate on this, with some saying it's possible, but others saying it isn't, or maybe it was a difference in year/model?

Anti sieze on the bolts? And will I be able to get a torque wrench in there? Not at all good at estimating torque, and reeeally don't want a leak.

I am not mechanically inclined so feel free to drop any extra tips

 

If you remove the wheel and splash shields there is no need to move the engine. Be sure to safely support the car. I've used a small amount of blue RTV with the O ring gasket. It's always a good idea to put anti sieze on bolts that thread into aluminum.

 

I used silicone gasket sealer around the outer edge of the pump. From the o-ring outwards, none from the o-ring inwards. Use very little.
I also used studs to line up the pump before installing. Get three extra bolts and cut off the heads, or just find three studs. You can even use wood dowels. Lightly thread the three studs onto the block, spaced apart. Then line up the pump to the studs and slide it on. Install three bolts, remove the studs and install the other three. Saves you from buggering up the o-ring.

 

I used spray tack only, and had a helper check alignment from above, think I got it on without disturbing gasket. Pump Instructions say to twist while putting pump on, but that seemed like a bad idea. Also seemed like a bit of a gamble to apply RTV and risk getting too much on. The mating surface took a bit of scrubbing with a green scotch brite, I was surprised with how much it needed to get the old RTV off.
Put coolant in and ran until 1/4 on temp gauge, closed hood and got it up to 1/2 on gauge.
No leaks.
But...
I'm a little nervous because those bolts were so hard to get to, I had to use a 1/4" ratchet with a small adapter and guess on torque. Plus it's likely they didn't get torqued down, incrementally, in a criss cross pattern.
Will a few heat/cool cycles be needed before I really know if there's a leak?
How would you fix that, just snug them all down a bit, or back all the bolts out a little (hopefully with minimal coolant spill) and retorque, or what? Also, can you actually get access to the bolts without removing wheel and/or pulley, with the right tool? Removing those seem trivial but are high on my list of not fun things.

Meahwhile, getting the pulley off was one thing I was worried about; I was able to just hold the pulley between my fingers while loosening/tightening the bolts, which kept it from spinning.

 

Spray tack worked out fine for me. Don't you think you can get to all of the bolts without removing the liner. The bolts hold the water pump to the block but the gasket does the sealing. Sure, if the bolts are loose enough then the gasket can't fill all the area in between. Just let it warm up in place with the liner out, a few cycles, if it's not leaking leave it alone, if it is then retorque