I will be out of town until Friday so I won't be able to do anymore tests but I did take this video of the ticking yesterday. Seems it only ticks once it gets up to full operating temperature (30 mins of driving )coupled with 50% power loss. Goes from running great to ticking and running poor in seconds. It's very loud to the point I can hear it in the cab while driving. I will take better ones when I get back. I have either cleaned the pcv or replaced in the past I can't remember which but I did maintenance it at one point. Really appreciate your help .

I will upload more videos of testing Friday night

https://streamable.com/yuu0l2

 

Thank you for that.

That is quite a racket.
The fact that There is a decrease in power only when warm seems as though it could point to several things.

1) stuck lifter (s) stuck valves
This would obviously directly affect compression But it would have to only happen when the car is warmed up. With the expansion of parts with heat, I suppose it's possible. Seems the easiest way would be to do a cold and operating temperature compression test to see if any of the valves are misbehaving.

If this was happening regularly, I would expect to see misfire codes if intake valves or exhaust valves were sticking partially open.

2) timing chain / tensioner/oiler/timing chain guides
This would certainly be enough metal to be rattling that loud.
If the chain is stretched or the tensioner is failing, there will be slack in the chain and it may be slapping off of the chain guides or the timing cover or itself. If the tensioner is not working properly, then theoretically the stretched chain could be allowing the cams to get slightly out of time with the crank. This would affect the power output.

Strangely enough, timing chain rattle often quiets down as the vehicle warms up, and it receives oil, etc. yours does not. I suspect the noise is there when first starting the car and while warming up, it is just a lot quieter. Meaning it's not something occurring out of thin air.

Please confirm that with the original now cleaned EGR in place, you do not hear this noise when cold or at operating temperature,

OR

Is it that the rattling is there when cold and just does not get any louder as the car warms up to operating temperature

The EGR test with the soda can cover cut out will simulate a closed EGR and therefore any effect associated with closing off those exhaust ports should be immediately evident. I wouldn't expect it to influence a timing chain issue........ I'm kind of at my limit here.

@02 LW300 @grcauto8453 @Rubehayseed @oldmarine @DropDead

I'd be much obliged if you could review this thread, listen to the video audio at the link above, and weigh in on the matter.

Thanks.

 

When trying to diagnose a tick or knock the test should involve idle for 5 seconds or so, same at 3000 rpm and a snap throttle,
Hard to tell if it's upper or lower or something else. Is this auto or standard trans?

 

I hear partially open exhaust and valve train noise. Seems to be running on all 4. I wonder if the cat core has come loose and sometimes plugs the exhaust. I hate making to many repairs at one time because of this kind of stuff. The oil change may have caused all the valve train noise. Maybe the egr repairs haven’t caused any of this.
.

 

OP did state there is a small hole in the flex pipe

 

There is lot of exhaust noise. I wonder if the manifold is cracked. I have not picked up my 02 SL1 yet, that would help with experience with these cars.

 

Thank you guys for all the replies. This is about 20 mins into warmup. To my ear just standing around the car it sounds quiet and smooth. If I get my ear right up to the intake manifold I can hear the slight tick. It is much more pronounced on the video. Also keep in mind I have a quarter inch hole in my flex pipe that is kinda noisy. To my ear the tap is 5% of what it is when it fully starts tapping after 30 minutes

https://streamable.com/bkld2l

I was able to narrow the noise down more with my screwdriver. The farthest left (passenger side) injector I can here the tapping the most getting progressively less quiet as I move down the injectors to the drivers side. All around the head and and valve cover is still smooth sounding. Possibly bad injector, rod knock, or piston slap on cylinder 1?


Possibly another key detail I just thought of. All around the alternator by cylinder one was oily and all over the alternator. I assumed it was leaking down from my power steering reservoir but the power steering fluid hasn't really dropped. I did fill it from the low line to the full line like 6 months ago so possibly a small leak over time


Update:

Pulled all the plugs and there all white ash


Possible fuel delivery problem that gets worse with heat? Funny it's not throwing a lean code. Should I test fuel pressure next or what do you guys think.
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might be your power steering pump,

as far as power loss, that would be the EGR

 

That is much better than the first video.

 

I'm going to guess you are not running stock NGK plugs?



Ga inp to 040