Swapping a 1997 DOHC into a 2000 SW2
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 329
From: Virginia, USA
Thanks Dude!
It was a bit of a challenge making it work. Even though they are both OBDII engines there are some differences between the Gen2 1997 and the Gen3 2000 (partly a result I'm sure of the switch from Delco to Motorola ECU and harness).
The '97 being a California emissions car vs the 2000 Federal spec didn't help either.
My main motivation was how well the '97 ran. When I pulled it into the garage for the swap it sounded so good I knew I would have a solid ride again if I could make this work. That's a good engine and I really appreciate you working with me on getting it.
Funny thing is that Derf had made a similar offer a few years ago and I turned him down because I didn't feel up to the work required to switch everything over.
Everything I've found on the 'net has been how to make the later gen engines work in an earlier one because "why would you want to put an older engine in your car?".
Well, how about because they're getting scarce?
A thorough study of the Ultimate Swap Guide helped along with using Rock Auto's site to look up all the sensors and note the part numbers to see what matched and what didn't.
With that I was able to come up with a list:
1. Things that are the same - choose the best of the two.
2. Things that are different - swap over from the 2000 engine to the 1997 so that they will hook up to the 2000 harness, systems, etc.
3. Things that are different but don't swap - come up with a modification or such so that it will work.
More was the same than different and most items could swap. The real challenge was the following items:
1. The 1997 fuel system is the return type, the 2000 is return-less. Connection locations are different too.The fuel rails can't be swapped because at the very least the mounting brackets are in different locations/orientations.
2. The throttle bodies, acceleration cables, brackets and vacuum connectors are different. While the 2000 throttle could be mounted on the '97 intake the throttle arm was in the wrong orientation to work with the '97 cable bracket location. The '97 cable bracket had a round hole and the 2000 had a square hole. The 2000 TPS sensor would not mount on the '97 throttle body either. The vacuum port connector is 3 ports on the '97 with one larger than the other two, the 2000 had two ports (like the '97 but missing the larger one). The hard nylon vacuum lines were radically different in their routing too.
3. Different MAP and knock sensors (different mounting location, method of mounting and electrical connectors).
4. Exhaust systems are similar but different. Secondary O2 sensor is different too.
I am not done with this project just yet. I still have to finish the exhaust mods and somewhere along the way I lost the temp gauge (cooling fan still comes on like it should).
Since the exhaust on the 2000 was beat to pieces (literally) by the engine jumping around the engine bay for years (running on two cylinders and bad mounts) I will be using the '97 exhaust from the manifold to just past the resonator since that one is in relatively good condition.
I will have to figure out the O2 sensor deal since they are different part numbers but they only seem to have a different connector. Neither one wants to come out of it's port. PB blaster and a Milwaukee impact wrench didn't work (O2 socket slipped). Neither did an 18" pipe wrench.
Right now I just have the exhaust attached from the manifold to the flange after the cat. Sounds like a ricer but I can drive it if needed.
It was a bit of a challenge making it work. Even though they are both OBDII engines there are some differences between the Gen2 1997 and the Gen3 2000 (partly a result I'm sure of the switch from Delco to Motorola ECU and harness).
The '97 being a California emissions car vs the 2000 Federal spec didn't help either.
My main motivation was how well the '97 ran. When I pulled it into the garage for the swap it sounded so good I knew I would have a solid ride again if I could make this work. That's a good engine and I really appreciate you working with me on getting it.
Funny thing is that Derf had made a similar offer a few years ago and I turned him down because I didn't feel up to the work required to switch everything over.
Everything I've found on the 'net has been how to make the later gen engines work in an earlier one because "why would you want to put an older engine in your car?".
Well, how about because they're getting scarce?
A thorough study of the Ultimate Swap Guide helped along with using Rock Auto's site to look up all the sensors and note the part numbers to see what matched and what didn't.
With that I was able to come up with a list:
1. Things that are the same - choose the best of the two.
2. Things that are different - swap over from the 2000 engine to the 1997 so that they will hook up to the 2000 harness, systems, etc.
3. Things that are different but don't swap - come up with a modification or such so that it will work.
More was the same than different and most items could swap. The real challenge was the following items:
1. The 1997 fuel system is the return type, the 2000 is return-less. Connection locations are different too.The fuel rails can't be swapped because at the very least the mounting brackets are in different locations/orientations.
2. The throttle bodies, acceleration cables, brackets and vacuum connectors are different. While the 2000 throttle could be mounted on the '97 intake the throttle arm was in the wrong orientation to work with the '97 cable bracket location. The '97 cable bracket had a round hole and the 2000 had a square hole. The 2000 TPS sensor would not mount on the '97 throttle body either. The vacuum port connector is 3 ports on the '97 with one larger than the other two, the 2000 had two ports (like the '97 but missing the larger one). The hard nylon vacuum lines were radically different in their routing too.
3. Different MAP and knock sensors (different mounting location, method of mounting and electrical connectors).
4. Exhaust systems are similar but different. Secondary O2 sensor is different too.
I am not done with this project just yet. I still have to finish the exhaust mods and somewhere along the way I lost the temp gauge (cooling fan still comes on like it should).
Since the exhaust on the 2000 was beat to pieces (literally) by the engine jumping around the engine bay for years (running on two cylinders and bad mounts) I will be using the '97 exhaust from the manifold to just past the resonator since that one is in relatively good condition.
I will have to figure out the O2 sensor deal since they are different part numbers but they only seem to have a different connector. Neither one wants to come out of it's port. PB blaster and a Milwaukee impact wrench didn't work (O2 socket slipped). Neither did an 18" pipe wrench.
Right now I just have the exhaust attached from the manifold to the flange after the cat. Sounds like a ricer but I can drive it if needed.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,316
From: Slightly off center
Nice job, Jamnar
I'd put even an aftermarket POS top mount before the lower torque mount gets damaged.
Soak o2 w blaster once an hour. Start the car every two hours and get it pretty warm. after a few cycles of this, turn the car off and try to remove the sensor while it is warm. Stainless and cast Iron expand at diff rates so the rust should loosen up.
If you are 100% sure you are trashing this sensor, cut the wires off at the sensor and use a regular 6 point that fits. ---sounds like the sensor bolt face has stripped. You may be able to hammer an SAE over it. put a 2 foot cheater pipe over your tool and lean. If you shock it with torque, it will likely snap off.
I'd put even an aftermarket POS top mount before the lower torque mount gets damaged.
Soak o2 w blaster once an hour. Start the car every two hours and get it pretty warm. after a few cycles of this, turn the car off and try to remove the sensor while it is warm. Stainless and cast Iron expand at diff rates so the rust should loosen up.
If you are 100% sure you are trashing this sensor, cut the wires off at the sensor and use a regular 6 point that fits. ---sounds like the sensor bolt face has stripped. You may be able to hammer an SAE over it. put a 2 foot cheater pipe over your tool and lean. If you shock it with torque, it will likely snap off.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 329
From: Virginia, USA
I picked the best top mount out of the two and it's pretty tight now.
As for the O2 sensor I'm probably just going to buy a new one and do whatever it takes to get the old one out.
Your suggestion sounds good. I might even try a torch to speed up that expansion process.
As for the O2 sensor I'm probably just going to buy a new one and do whatever it takes to get the old one out.
Your suggestion sounds good. I might even try a torch to speed up that expansion process.
