S series brake help
I just was gifted a 1998 Saturn SL2! I had an issue with the ECTS and now that that’s fixed it’s time to move on to the brakes! So it has a bad wheel cylinder and the brake system is close to completely empty (probably just going to use this as an opportunity to empty it completely). Replacing the wheel cylinder is easy enough and I have bled brakes before but is there anything I need to know about bleeding brakes from 100% empty. I have tool similar to this one: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Sorry if this is posted in the wrong area
Sorry if this is posted in the wrong area
Last edited by Thebigdaddyd16; Dec 11, 2018 at 11:44 PM. Reason: Forgot a sentence
Yep, you'll need to fill the master cylinder and then bleed it. You'll need to disconnect the lines going to the front and rear brakes before you bleed it. After doing so, start at the right rear wheel and bleed it first, then the driver side rear wheel. Make sure to keep that master cylinder topped off too. After you get the air out of the rear brakes, passenger side front and last, driver side front. Personally, I don't like replacing just one wheel cylinder. I replace them in pairs. If the other one is weak in the system, then it won't be long before you'll have to replace it too. I learned that the hard way. Had it happen to an old Dodge Dart I had back in college. I had a leaky wheel cylinder and just replaced it. A few days later, I had to get to my internship in Nashville and when I got off the ramp at my exit, my brake pedal went to the floor. Emergency brakes got a work out until I could get the 45 miles back to my apartment and put in the other side wheel cylinder. Lesson learned. Nashville traffic with just an emergency brake back in 1978 was a challenge!
Rube had it right the first time.
When the master cylinder has been run empty and it's not too big a hassle to disconnect the lines at the master cylinder then I would highly recommend doing that and bleeding the master cylinder first. It'll make things go easier and faster once you have the master cylinder pumping right. Then, when you have the master cylinder bled, reconnect the lines and start bleeding at the wheels. Sometimes it's just too much trouble and not worth the effort to bleed the master cylinder first (and eventually it'll all work out anyway) but it will take longer and increase the number of chances of running the master cylinder empty and then having to start all over again.
By the way, that's why you want to be careful not to let the master cylinder run empty (or even very low for that matter). If you draw in any air into the system at the master cylinder during the bleed process then you will have to start all over again with your bleed cycle.
Been there, done that and while it's not the end of the world it sure is annoying and wastes precious time.
When the master cylinder has been run empty and it's not too big a hassle to disconnect the lines at the master cylinder then I would highly recommend doing that and bleeding the master cylinder first. It'll make things go easier and faster once you have the master cylinder pumping right. Then, when you have the master cylinder bled, reconnect the lines and start bleeding at the wheels. Sometimes it's just too much trouble and not worth the effort to bleed the master cylinder first (and eventually it'll all work out anyway) but it will take longer and increase the number of chances of running the master cylinder empty and then having to start all over again.
By the way, that's why you want to be careful not to let the master cylinder run empty (or even very low for that matter). If you draw in any air into the system at the master cylinder during the bleed process then you will have to start all over again with your bleed cycle.
Been there, done that and while it's not the end of the world it sure is annoying and wastes precious time.


