< =>
<!--
var SymRealOnLoad;
var SymReal;

Sym()
{
window.open = SymWinOpen;
if(SymReal != null)
SymReal();
}

SymOnLoad()
{
if(SymRealOnLoad != null)
SymRealOnLoad();
window.open = SymRealWinOpen;
SymReal = window.;
window. = Sym;
}

SymRealOnLoad = window.onload;
window.onload = SymOnLoad;

//-->
</>
Hello -


I have a 2001 SL2 with a manual transmission that was doing the following, but not all the time:
<UL>
<LI>Idled low sometimes, (500-)</LI>
<LI>Idled high sometimes (1500+)</LI>
<LI>Stalled sometimes when stopping, with no pattern - not all the time, engine/outside air temp could be cold or hot</LI>
<LI>Almost stalled sometimes when shifting, depressed clutch and rpm would drop to 0 immediately</LI>
<LI>Service engine soon light on most but not all of the time</LI>
<LI>Never shows any codes, even the code I was told should show when it stalled</LI>[/list]

Have done the following:
<UL>
<LI>Replaced PCV, EGR, and cleaned fuel injectors</LI>[/list]

Was told that the next thing would be to replace the idle air control valve. I did that today and cleaned the gunk out of the valve seat; but I didn't take the throttle body off or clean anywhere else.


It started (Yay for me!) but now it idles at 2000 - 2500 rpm and it moves along that range while stopped after the engine is warmed up; it also keeps a high idle when depressing the clutch to shift gears.


Is it possible that some of the gunk I cleaned from the IACV seat has now worked its way into the throttle body and is causing thisproblem? Also, theSES light is still on.


Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

1) SES light on must </span>be storing a code....is it the SES or the Service (wrench) light? They are not the same....get the ODBII codes read at Autozone or similar (for free) and post actual codes.....

2) Have you done a throttle body cleaning (without removing)? Air
intake/throttle body cleaner + toothbrush? Clean throttle body....



3) RPM swings/</span>stallikng </span>sounds like an EGR issue (EGR valve sticking or not moving freely). EGR replacement should have helped -- unless the problem is with the EGR solenoid that actuates the EGR.

Check EGR solenoid.

4) Persistent High Idle -- often caused by vacuum leaks. Check all vacum lines, as well as throttle body to intake mating and the intake manifold gasket. Spray some throttle body cleaner around these areas...with the engine running. If the rpms change while doing so, you've found your vacuum leak.

Need those codes.....

Derf

Thanks for your speedy reply!


Here are the codes that I got today:


P0107 - Barometric pressure sensor


P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor A


P0506 - Idle control system - RPM low


P0507 - Idle control system - RPM high


P0507 - Repeat of above high idle code


One other thing I noticed is that even in gear, when you take your foot off the gas, the car acts like it's still getting gas and continues along at a constant speed if you're on a flat surface. It's more noticeable in the lower gears. Don't think this tankful will last too long! I assume this is what's causing the vehicle speed sensor code.


I haven't tried any of your earlier suggestions yet and have a few questions and some additional information as follows:


1) SES light on must be storing a code....is it the SES or the Service (wrench) light? They are not the same....


Some codes showed up this time; the SES light was on much more sporadically earlier when no codes showed. It's on most of the time now. And yes, it is the Service Engine Soon, not the light with the wrench.

2) Have you done a throttle body cleaning (without removing)? Air intake/throttle body cleaner + toothbrush? Clean throttle body....


It's next on the list.


3) RPM swings/stallikng sounds like an EGR issue (EGR valve sticking or not moving freely). EGR replacement should have helped -- unless the problem is with the EGR solenoid that actuates the EGR.

Check EGR solenoid.


How does one check the EGR solenoid?



4) Persistent High Idle -- often caused by vacuum leaks. Check all vacum lines, as well as throttle body to intake mating and the intake manifold gasket. Spray some throttle body cleaner around these areas...with the engine running. If the rpms change while doing so, you've found your vacuum leak.


Is there a diagram online somewhere of the vacuum lines? Also, is it possible I dislodged something while replacing the IACV? I did strip the head of the lower screw when replacing it, but it was tight before I did - that's why I stripped the dang thing! Would have been nice if they used bolts instead....



Thanks again for all your help, I sure appreciate it!

To the codes:

1)P0107 = Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

2)P0500 = Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit


3)P0506 Idle Speed Low

4)P0507 Idle Speed High

These are consistent with what you've said is going on....
_____
No sign of EGR issues based on codes (scratch that off the list)
_____
If I were an engine and didn't know the manifold pressure or how fast the vehicle was traveling (MAP and VSS circuit issues, respectively), I'd run like sh*t.....

Sounds like some wiring got damaged/disconnected....

A)Ensure that the wiring to the MAP sensor has not been dislodged
B)Ensure that the VSS wiring is intact
C)Check for vacuum leaks as indicated above....it is less likely the root of the idle issues but is worth a check
D) would still clean throttle body, with special attention given to the air passage right in front of the throttle plate...

do not start swapping out sensors yet -- this gets too expensive when you don't know the root of the issue(s)

Derf

< =>
<!--
var SymRealOnLoad;
var SymReal;

Sym()
{
window.open = SymWinOpen;
if(SymReal != null)
SymReal();
}

SymOnLoad()
{
if(SymRealOnLoad != null)
SymRealOnLoad();
window.open = SymRealWinOpen;
SymReal = window.;
window. = Sym;
}

SymRealOnLoad = window.onload;
window.onload = SymOnLoad;

//-->
</>
Hi -


Thanks for your earlier replies. Now that it got above freezing, I went out and checked all the connections and wiring and everything seems to be connected and there's no apparent damage. Also all the vacuum hoses seem to be o.k., although I'll probably change them out in the spring as a bit of preventive maintenance.


So how does one determine if the MAP sensor or VSSare defective, or is it easier just to change them? Also, where are the sensors located? I was pretty good on my old Maverick, but it wasn't quite as complicated! I also miss the old "three on the tree" manual transmission, but if I want another three speed I guess I should get a bicycle.....


As always, thanks for your help.