Replaced ckp and she's running fine. Thank you all for your help!

 

Sweet. Sorry it took so long. Never had a CKP post quite like yours. Usually if they run, they run until they heat up and then the continuity of the coil disappears from the expansion and the car stops dead and won't start until it cools off

Anyway, your solution to your problem has now been documented in the annals of someplace nobody really cares about except us. And that's what matters. Stick around. I might just learn something.

 

Ugggh! So my daughter finally picked up the car, drove it 83 miles home without any issues. The next morning tried to start it and it turns over but wouldn't start. I now have no spark coming from either coil pack. All fuses under the hood and inside the car are good. Thoughts???

 

Replace the pigtail for the CKP. It's probably not making proper contact with the CKP terminals or there is a crack or damaged wire. Trace the wiring from the CKP first. You may find a break

 

I was seeing the tach move very slightly when turning over. Maybe 50 rpms. Does that seem about right? I have a scanner from Harbor Freight but that showed no rpms on the live data. However, it's from Harbor Freight so...
The only thing she did differently was use the normal key. I had the valet key when I was working on it, which is what she drove it home with. So I was thinking possibly the security issue but I discon̈nected the battery for a bit to reset the security. Also, wouldn't it run for a couple seconds if that was the issue?
is there a way to check what input (if any) going to the 5 pin connector on the DIS? Would the DIS suddenly fail like that? Or the PCM?
Is there anywhere I can find the diagram for the 80 pin connector going to the PCM? Then I could check the wiring for continuity and resistance from the CKP to the PCM. The PCM part no is 21009371

 

Fix the crank sensor.

 

I just replaced tge CKP sensor a couple weeks ago. I think it's got to be either the wires from tge CKP to the pcm (which is why I was asking for the PCM pin diagram) or the PCM itself.

 

Is there an echo chamber in here.......here ..here....

Intermittent wiring issue with CKP or crappy CKP has failed.
If you bought at AutoZone or advance, not one bit surprised.
.
Inspect the wiring from the CKP back towards the PCM. You don't need a diagram to trace that wiring far enough to find a break. Usually it's the connector anyway. Corrosion, poor contact, broken connection where wires go into connector.

No mas.

I'm out on this one.

 

I replaced the ckp with an AC Delco AND the connector. STILL no spark. The only other thoughts I have are ignition module and computer. Is there any way of testing the ignition module? I did pull the 5 pin connector to the module and there is power at the pink wire pin.

 

OK, so you replaced the crank sensor, it worked.
Then it stopped working.

Replaced it again and the pigtail.

1 new sensor
2 new wire connections

Did you use butt splice connectors?
Did you solder and shrink wrap?

If you increase the resistance of that circuit enough, the voltage level at the PCM may be too low for the PCM's liking which is equivalent to no CKP signal detected.
Same issue with the ECTS circuit. When cold, only about 2500 ohms. when approaching overheating, 300 ohms. Corrosion on the connectors or a partial nick in the wires can be the difference between correct and incorrect info derived by the PCM.

What is the resistance measured between
the 2 CKP pins with the pigtail connected?
the 2 CKP pins with the pigtail disconnected?

Also, what else did you touch/knock into/lean on when you replaced the CKP the first time? Move a wiring harness?, etc.?
I'm not accusing you of anything. Merely pointing out that sometimes we disrupt things that are actually part of the problem without realizing it until much later.

Do you smell fuel in the cyls after a crank session? Can't remember.