Over heating in a 96 saturn sl1
#1
10-25-2015, 02:49 PM
Over heating in a 96 saturn sl1
My 96 sl1 is still over heating flushed the lines replaced the cap, radiator, pcv valve and gromet, water pump, thermostat, and the thermometer thing under on the passenger side replace oilfilter and oil and antifreeze is 50/50.the fan kicks on at the mark between half and 3/4 i also replaced the spark plugs, cables and coils. Help please and thankyou
Last edited by Saturn newbie21; 10-25-2015 at 09:37 PM.
#2
10-25-2015, 10:26 PM
This is the worst case of throwing parts at a car I've seen in a long time.
Shotgunning parts will only empty your wallet.
The temperature thingy is ECTS. The driver's side located in the cylinder head.
Is your SES light on? If so go to autozone or similar and get codes read for free.
Post them here as Pxxxx where xxxx is a four digit number.
I doubt you had the system pressure tested for leaks since you bought a new reservoir cap for no logical reason other than it was part of the cooling system.
Open the hood. With the engine running, have your friend turn on the AC full blast. When AC is engaged the auxiliary fan under the hood should kick on immediately. This keeps the car from overheating w the AC on in traffic. This also tests if the fan itself and the relay that controls it.
If the fan comes on w the AC test, then both the fan and fan relay are functional.
It then comes down to either
bogus info being sent to the pcm regarding the temp.of the coolant, causing the pcm to never tell the fan to turn on
The coolant system has a leak and cannot main proper pressure, or there is a blockage causing excessive pressure.
Check the fan/relay.first
Get SES codes.read
Post results
Shotgunning parts will only empty your wallet.
The temperature thingy is ECTS. The driver's side located in the cylinder head.
Is your SES light on? If so go to autozone or similar and get codes read for free.
Post them here as Pxxxx where xxxx is a four digit number.
I doubt you had the system pressure tested for leaks since you bought a new reservoir cap for no logical reason other than it was part of the cooling system.
Open the hood. With the engine running, have your friend turn on the AC full blast. When AC is engaged the auxiliary fan under the hood should kick on immediately. This keeps the car from overheating w the AC on in traffic. This also tests if the fan itself and the relay that controls it.
If the fan comes on w the AC test, then both the fan and fan relay are functional.
It then comes down to either
bogus info being sent to the pcm regarding the temp.of the coolant, causing the pcm to never tell the fan to turn on
The coolant system has a leak and cannot main proper pressure, or there is a blockage causing excessive pressure.
Check the fan/relay.first
Get SES codes.read
Post results
Last edited by derf; 10-27-2015 at 02:29 AM.
#4
10-27-2015, 02:48 AM
1) Pardon me for missing the part about your fan kicking on.
Well, it looks like we've lurched forward, ignoring any and all questions asked.
Not very polite. If you expect to get assistance on this forum, show some manners.
Some of the suggestions may even have made sense....
2) If you continue to use thoroughly anti-descriptive terms like "valve thing" with no context, you will get banned because no one can help you/becomes a waste of time.
No one's playing 259 questions.
3) If your ects HAS an inside, it's the resin tipped one original to the car and needs to be tossed away a does its connector. Not sure I want to know why it's black
Go to a GM dealer and buy a brass ects and connector. $45. Corrosion on connector messes up reading.
______________
If you source the ECTS aftermarket, the calibration will likely be wrong, leading to the fan possibly not turning on as soon as it should. Your car, your choice.
______________
4) Does the car consume coolant?
5) Does the coolant reservoir look like a milkshake?
6) Are the radiator hoses warm after the car idles for 5 min?
7) How long with the car idling does it take to spew coolant on the ground or out the tailpipe?
Well, it looks like we've lurched forward, ignoring any and all questions asked.
Not very polite. If you expect to get assistance on this forum, show some manners.
Some of the suggestions may even have made sense....
2) If you continue to use thoroughly anti-descriptive terms like "valve thing" with no context, you will get banned because no one can help you/becomes a waste of time.
No one's playing 259 questions.
3) If your ects HAS an inside, it's the resin tipped one original to the car and needs to be tossed away a does its connector. Not sure I want to know why it's black
Go to a GM dealer and buy a brass ects and connector. $45. Corrosion on connector messes up reading.
______________
If you source the ECTS aftermarket, the calibration will likely be wrong, leading to the fan possibly not turning on as soon as it should. Your car, your choice.
______________
4) Does the car consume coolant?
5) Does the coolant reservoir look like a milkshake?
6) Are the radiator hoses warm after the car idles for 5 min?
7) How long with the car idling does it take to spew coolant on the ground or out the tailpipe?
Last edited by derf; 10-28-2015 at 02:33 AM.
#5
10-27-2015, 07:45 AM
Are you running a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and distilled water? If you're running just straight water or straight anti-freeze, it'll run hot on you.
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