No Spark!
Do the compression test first.
I have my suspicions.
You say there is no spark. No spark where? At the plugs? At all the plugs? At the coil towers between them on each coil (that's an arc, actually)
It's possible to stress out the ICM with the wrong plugs and or too wide a gap on the right plugs. In most cases it leads to more energy being required to create a spark.
Make sure you do the all plug wires off the coils injector fuse pulled arc test. When you crank, you should see an arc across the two terminals of each coil. One coil, then the other etc.
Also, have you checked all four of the IGN fuses? I believe they are all under the hood but there may be one in the ipjb. And the eis fuse (electronic ignition system)?
Also your P codes have five digits not four. Please check and repost those two codes.
Please also post exactly which p030x misfire codes you received. We need to know if this is cylinder specific.
I know exactly how a dohc running on three cylinders the feels to drive. I did it for 10 months. Not sure it could run on 2. But it had the same fade in power, flashing check engine light, and the aura of non-reality that comes with your baby acting in a way unknown to you and therefore certainly not good.
Below is the diag table for the ICM.
Do yourself a favor and do the compression test first. Quick and easy and if it is bad news, at least you didn't spend time troubleshooting the ICM.
.
For background on the ignition system used in this vehicle: Saturn DOHC Electronic Ignition
For background on coils: Coils
Here is a link to the diag tree for the ignition system. There are multiple pages under this no start section. This is page 3 of four. Once you are in the charm manual, you can navigate One step up and then get to the other three pages individually.
Ignition troubleshooting No Start
Again, please do the compression test first. If it passes, put in stock and GK plugs and stock wires if you can find them.
I have my suspicions.
You say there is no spark. No spark where? At the plugs? At all the plugs? At the coil towers between them on each coil (that's an arc, actually)
It's possible to stress out the ICM with the wrong plugs and or too wide a gap on the right plugs. In most cases it leads to more energy being required to create a spark.
Make sure you do the all plug wires off the coils injector fuse pulled arc test. When you crank, you should see an arc across the two terminals of each coil. One coil, then the other etc.
Also, have you checked all four of the IGN fuses? I believe they are all under the hood but there may be one in the ipjb. And the eis fuse (electronic ignition system)?
Also your P codes have five digits not four. Please check and repost those two codes.
Please also post exactly which p030x misfire codes you received. We need to know if this is cylinder specific.
I know exactly how a dohc running on three cylinders the feels to drive. I did it for 10 months. Not sure it could run on 2. But it had the same fade in power, flashing check engine light, and the aura of non-reality that comes with your baby acting in a way unknown to you and therefore certainly not good.
Below is the diag table for the ICM.
Do yourself a favor and do the compression test first. Quick and easy and if it is bad news, at least you didn't spend time troubleshooting the ICM.
.
For background on the ignition system used in this vehicle: Saturn DOHC Electronic Ignition
For background on coils: Coils
Here is a link to the diag tree for the ignition system. There are multiple pages under this no start section. This is page 3 of four. Once you are in the charm manual, you can navigate One step up and then get to the other three pages individually.
Ignition troubleshooting No Start
Again, please do the compression test first. If it passes, put in stock and GK plugs and stock wires if you can find them.
Last edited by derf; Sep 5, 2025 at 11:54 PM.
Hi, Derf. Success! I got it running! I was in the process of cleaning grounds and coils and mounting where the module sits. I had ordered a delco ICM on the off chance I needed it based on you saying don't use cheap ICM get a Delco. Made in USA Delco showed up today was not supposed to be here till Monday. I had to reassemble everything anyhow so I cleaned everything up touched the key and she fired. Runs smooth and perfect. No check engine lights. I really needed the car today so I took a chance, it worked. I did find a few cracked wires coming from the crank sensor. It has a short pigtail I removed and repaired. I did ohm test the crank sensor and it was in specs. I also ordered a Standard Motor Products crankshaft sensor that will be here Tuesday. Do you think I should install this also? The flow charts you sent really helped, just never got to compression test. The car uses about a quart of oil every 1000 miles. Gets about 32 mph and drive a like a new car. Amazingly fast and has lots of power. Kind of like a sleeper 4 cylinder. Also plugs looked real good, gray tan color, did not need regapped. Pulled them after it started to be sure on gap. They are autolite irridium. The plug wires are beldon wires for life from napa. Almost new. Factory fit. Any thoughts moving forward? Thanks to all! Nick
Hi, derf. A follow up on my sl2 after getting it running. After the delco ignition module, NGK plugs you suggested and an evap solenoid I had laying around and was too lazy to contort my hands to put in. These three parts installed. Amazingly the car runs better then it ever has. My mileage has jumped from 32 mpg to 35 mpg. This is after a drive of about 700 miles on the highway. It's my work commuter car and I travel great distances once a month across the state. Still ha e to add a little oil but that's a Saturn 1.9, still has power like a rocket. The car ran fine before. I am trying to wrap my head around what.made the big difference. I did remove autolite irridium plugs. I heard they heated up and worked similar to a glow plug?
anyhow your insight on this might be helpful for other folks.
Thanks, Nick
anyhow your insight on this might be helpful for other folks.
Thanks, Nick


