Hey there. I''''m new here. I recently bought a 95 SL1 and I absolutely love it! I paid 900 bucks for it. It has new tires, struts, and brakes. I bought it from a co-worker and he was the original owner. The only thing that has not been replaced is the clutch. I have a repair book and I see that you must remove the engine to replace the clutch. I do my own maintenance on all my cars (my name, 48builder refers to a 48 Chevy street Rod I am building).


I''''m looking for any guidance I can find on doing the clutch. I may end up paying to have it done, but I figure I can save $500 or more if I do it. I have a tools, a heated garage and a cherry picker, so no problems there. The clutch seems to be OK so far, but I''''m sure it won''''t last forever.


Thanks!





Walt


Edited by: 48builder

Why do you think the clutch need replacing? How many miles are on the car? I''ve seen them last over 300,000 miles.

I don''t, yet. It has the original clutch and I don''t know how long they normally last. Good to know that they can last that long. I don''t want to replace it unless it needs it, but I also travel a lot and don''t want to get stuck somewhere.





What symptoms would indicate that the clutch is on it''s way out?





Thanks,





Walt

Slipping and just not grabbing like it should. And more often than not, the clutch hydrolics go out before the clutch hardware.

There are several indications that a clutch has failed, or is in the process of going bad:


1) Pedal travels to the floor - no pressure or very little resistance; 2)Unable to select/shift gears;3) Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in car speed); 4) Grabbing (chattering) when clutch is engaged; 5) Transaxle rattling or clicking; 6) Unusual noise in or around the clutch housing; 7) Clutch pedal stays on the floor; 8) Clutch pedal very hard to depress.


Edited by: OceanArcher

But keep in mind #1,2, and 7 can indicate bad hydrolics too.