interesting hesitation and other small issues.
 

I have a 98 sl1 thats got a very interesting symptom. Its a 5 speed and coming out of first gear it has a dead set hesitation with out continually giving it gas while letting it out of first. Its almost impossible to take off easy in first gear without the car jerking you and trying to stall out. Yes I can drive a stick and its not related to my driving ability. Also when I wanna drop the car back into first when coming to a stop the shifter stiffens up going into gear and you have to shove it into first and second. Could this be shifter cable related?
I was told from the former owners of the car that a sensor needed to be replaced in order to fix my hesitation. Any ideas?
Thanks
Q

Replace ECTS

+1 for ECTS

I replaced mine when my SL2 was doing the same thing and it fixed the problem.

Alright new to this whole saturn thing plz explain what is the ECTS? Where is it?

ECTS --> Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

Located on the end of the engine, driver's side. Two wire electrical connection.

"What does it do?", you ask questioningly <-- Allow me to explain:

This little device sends electrical information to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which alters the performance parameters of your engine based on the temperature of the coolant water exiting the engine, and can cause hard starting, excessive fuel usage and generally poor engine performance, just to name a few.

This device is easily tested -- disconnect the two-wire connector, and use an ohmmeter to read the value of resistance across the contacts of the sensor. On a cold engine (50 to 80 degrees farenheit) the resistance will be between 5,600 and 2,400 ohms. As the temperature increases, the value of resistance will decrease. On a hot engine (180 to 200 degrees farenheit) the resistance will be between 300 and 200 ohms. If you cannot obtain these readings, then the sensor is defective, and should be replaced.

The cost of the sensor itself is about $15usd. It is a good idea to replace the connector at the same time to ensure proper electrical connection. The connector will cost about $25usd. Be certain that your new sensor has a tip that is completely enclosed in metal. Some replacement sensors have an exposed resin/epoxy tip, and they do not last very long. Use TEFLON tape on the threads of the new sensor, and work only on a cold engine to avoid scalding/burns ......

I would also recommend getting the OEM ECTS from saturn because the generic replacement is low quality. When I changed mine, I used the carquest replacement and 2 months later when my car started acting up again i pulled it and the tip was missing off of it. Only a little wire was sticking out. Ever since I put in the OEM part no problem though.

+2 for OEM

Thanks for the explanation. I have 6 of these motors at the yard so I will rob a sensor off of one of them. Just bought another car (I have an issue with that) so any money saved is fantastic for me.
Thanks again.

Wellll .... swapping out a suspect sensor with one of an unknown pedigree seems a bit like shooting dice, but if it is acceptable in your opinion -- go for it

chances are most of the ones in the yard will not be the brass tipped one you desire......