Ignition coil bolts rusted, can't turn
 

Hi. I have an 1999 SW2 with a manual and DOHC. I have an intermittent 1 and 4 misfire. I did a valve cover gasket job, spark plugs, and wires. Which DID help because the spark plugs were junk and werent even tightened into the engine, but still have that misfire because of the common poor grounding of the coil and module. However, I am able to remove the top 2 bolts but NOT the bottom 2 bolts. Does anyone have ideas on how to get down there? Its such a tight fit there's no way to drill them out. Honestly these should have been mounted near the battery... on top of the motor.

Ignition Coil Bolt Part #
 

Even though no one is reading my other forum asking for help removing the rusted bolts... rip... I did find part #s for the bolts
one is the top bolt, the other is the bottom bolt.(a total of 2 each for 4) Note this applies to the 1.9l DOHC, but I would assume, but am not sure, it applies to the SOHC.

11517904
11517905

PB Blaster PB Blaster PB Blaster
soak soak soak.
I believe those bolts go through the ignition control module beneath the coils and thread into blind holes in the block.
Do not try to drill them out unless you like rethreading aluminum or are a fan of helicoil.

Do not take a torch to it unless it is tightly focused down to the head of the bolt and you do an on off on off or you will fry the ICM.

I have in the past soaked suspension bolts on my SC2 twice a day for 5 days to get them loose. Be patient.

Um.. like o said the bolts are donzo socket can't be used. I'm asking how I can remove them since I cannot use a socket or wrench

My bad only the title mentioned the bolts being bad. Anyway, some mod moved my other forum Into this one where it does not belong. Mods you need to read

I would take a die grinder or dremel with a cut off wheel cut the head of the bolt of to move the coils out of the way. Then you should be able to use more PB blaster or liquid wrench on them some more and be able to grab onto them with a vise grip. That is one of many ways.

Oh the bolt doesnt thread through the coil? Does it through through the module?

Don't go cutting the heads off of them.

I think we're crossed up a bit.

You need to remove the entire DIS, then unbolt the coil from the ICM, swap in a new one, and reattach as one unit back to the block.

the bolts I was describing are the ones that hold the entire DIS, not the individual coils

"Bolts are donzo" ??? translation please?

If the above doesn't clear things up, please post a picture so we can see what's jamming you up.

Oh, I'm that mod.

Please keep all related info in a single thread.
Thanks.

Having rusted bolts and finding part numbers for replacements sure seems related to me.

You cant remove the Ignition Module without removing the ignition coils from the module.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...bc839018e0.png

This is a top view of the coil pack. The two bolts visible hold down the spark plug wires and the coil and the ignition module. There are similar, but different bolts on the bottom(couldnt find a good photo online) that are easiest gotten from the bottom.

However, those two bolts are completely stripped and circular. Im guessing the previous owner attempted the repair(like they failed miserably at spark plugs and a valve cover gasket) and just gave up and sold the car at auction. The bolts have to be removed to remove the coil and module.

Its not related in that its not as easy to find and its just general information, its not explicitly or solely related here. But nevermind I guess.

And I mean im not the most familiar with the car but it appears that the 4 bolts are what hold the whole unit on, the flat surface just appears to be a machined piece of the block they attach to for what I assume is ground.
Are you thinking the top 2 bolts allow the whole thing to be lifted off?

Gonna look under the hood in my driveway......brb

Haha okay

Darn I think I killed him. RIP

OK,

My apologies.

The bolts we speak of are one in the same.
The others were pigments of my imagination.

I have a 97SC2 and my coils are mounted on enough of an angle that I can establish line of sight to the bottom bolts.
Don't know what else would be blocking your path. should be able to use a reg depth tool (see below)


Try an appropriately sized stud removal tool. It obviously can't be too large in diameter nor too deep.

Or try these
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P?sid=IDx01192011x1577014246sid=IDx0119 2011x000001x1577014246&utm_campaign=9005966&utm_gr oup=60662940918-296247770355&utm_term=pla-475770165082&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxvbdBRC0ARIsAKmec9Z3RKt dID38MHvFzQ9u8C_jfNVXOrILLkie9oIRZMuZ4Rm-3ZOMi-UaAgZ4EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=COG_rPjR_d0CFU0G DAodAXMEEg

Basically, you hammer them onto the damaged head, then put a regular depth SIX POINT socket around it and slowly apply force to break it loose. The last thing you want to do is break it off.

You may need to use a wobble adapter to make up for the fact that you can't get lined up right over the bolt with the ratchet. I prefer them over u joints

Then beat the stripped one out of the bolt remover and repeat for the other bolt.

If even these won't grip, try to dremel shape 2 parallel flat edges on the side of the head of the bolt so the extractor has something to grip

No, I went and found that link for you, thouigh Sears is going bankrupt on Fri so not sure I'd order from them.
Check out the link so you know what they look like

You stil haven't told me what donzo is.....

Do you know who Bonzo is?

Those socket tools appar to be very large, not sure if they would even fit around the bolt to be honest. Do you think I might have a chance with vice grips? Or dremmeling down to 2 edges and putting a wrench(obviously 5-7mm range if its 8 normally)

Do you think the other person suggesting grinding off the head wouldn't work(such as the threat actually threading into the module versus just the block)

Fixed all my misspellings. I don't get paid to type here.
Actually, I don't get paid at all

Donezo is a funny way of saying SOL. hehe

If your dremel cutting wheel is not the right size, it won't fit in the gap. If it is too small, you won't be able to cut all the way through the bolt. I'd save that as a last resort.

The bolt extractors for the smaller sizes (my set only goes down to 10mm (3/8 " drive)) are not much bigger than the bolt heads.
See if you can find a 1/4" drive extractor set. It should have the size you need.
Also, stud extractor sockets come in different diameters, so don't write them off -- by far the easiest

You can also take a hammer and point chisel and make an indentation on the outside rim on the top of what's left of the bolt head. Then strike the chisel so that you impart counterclockwise rotation on the fastener. Sometimes this breaks the rust free from the impact,

you typed donzo, silly
done zo i woulda gotten

This tool seems like it should work from what I understand, the small end is enough to get around the bolt, I hope., and where it gets larger is where you get more room near the coil.

And in my case, if I had to, I would be willing to grind into the coil to cut the bolt head. HOWEVER, I would make sure to disconnect the battery and discharge any ANY electricity in them before attempting that. I can get it saturday which means I can do it sunday, hopefully.

Autozone sells same exact item 12.99


no cutting!!!!
not yet anyway

Do you have a part number or a link to their website with it? I tried bolt extractor on their website and I didnt see it. I mean if they have one fo so, I will definitely do that. And I am not worried about aft clearance because even if it was too close to the radiator, I am going to have to replace the radiator anyway since the pentcock is shattered from Im assuming frozen antifreeze. Its all together but it slowly leaks out. My guess over the years someone added water and it diluted past 50/50 or it wasnt changed properly.

https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...ctor/52437_0_0
W83203

"Performance tool" thats why I couldnt find it lol. autozone has a weird organization system that sometimes arbitrarily labels something very specifically... anyway, thanks for finding it! According to autozone its in stock in my town which means I can use it for saturday... but really I wont have the most use for it until the new fasteners come in the mail. But it still doesnt hurt to have and at least try to see if it will work. And if it wont I can find another one.

Also could you check my forum on coolant tank? You seem to know quite a bit about our saturns :P

First thing I'd try is putting a punch or drift pin tool against them and hitting them with a ball peen hammer in order to try to knock some rust loose. Then, I'd take a dremmel with a cutting tool and cut a slot in them to accommodate a flat head screwdriver tip and soak them with Kroil, PB Blaster or what ever penetrating oil you have and let them sit for a day and then try removing them. I'd put a pair of vise grips on the screwdriver for torque and lean into the screwdriver with as much force as possible while turning it. If it doesn't move, soak it some more and wait another day. Derf has some excellent ideas, so you'll just have to decide what fits your needs best. And I'm not a dirty old man, I just like the twisted and perverted jokes that I hear and pass along ! LOL I'd be curious to know if that "performance tool" from Autozone works. It looks too big around to fit in there to me, but that could just be because of the exploded picture.

Tomorrow I am going to be attempting to take the old bolts out, clean up the ground surfaces, and put them back together. If it works my car will be DTC free :)

Soooooo, did you get it all squared away?

Inquiring minds want to know....

Might take a few drives before the light goes out, so don't freak. Misfire codes usually clear pretty quickly given the amount of data the PCM can look at to decide.

How did you finally get them off?

Sorry about the late response. I ended up doing the job a week later.

So on saturday I replaced the radiator, the coolant overflow reservoir, and the ignition coil bolts. Basically I started by taking out the radiator and the fan(for some reason... there was no condensor in the car..)
With the much improved space to work on, I remove one of the two lower bolts with a vice grip, because the tool I was looking at was much bigger than the photos made it out to be. No big deal. However, the other bolt I had to end up grinding the head off just to pull the coil packs off. Once the pack/module were off, I was able to turn the bolt out.

To get the bolt out, I bent it so that I could twist it out with pliers and by hand. Very easy process surprisingly.

I wAS careful not to grind away the grounding wire for the coil and have the battery disconnected. Once removed I cleaned up the surfaces and reassembled. Boy did it help. Car runs great!

I actually was worried and thought it had a misfire but it was just a code for an intake air sensor that I forgot to plug back in. As soon as I plugged that in it has no codes. The next day my dad and I went on a little trip with it and it was reliable and ran well the whole time!

Wow I just typed up a big post and none of it actually posted when I pressed quick reply.So im just gonna say it again but abridged

Misfire was because of poor grounds. Coils are fine.

Removed radiator and fan to gain much needed space. Helped a lot. very very easy job. 2 10mm bolts, 1 wiring connector, 2 stock 7mm hose clamp bolts for radiator hoses.

Got one bolt out with vice grips, one by grinding.(made sure not to ruin the metal ground wire on the outside of the coil.)

New bolts worked great. Car runs great. Had a code but it was because I forgot to plug air cleaner temp sensor back in. Drove it on a 40 min or so road trip with my dad on Sunday, ran really well. No codes.

Very pleased with my cheap saturn., Giving it to my dad so he has a reliable vehicle and good on gas.

Happy to hear that you got it fixed and kudos for giving it to your Dad. So many of us Dads give cars to their kids nowadays and barely get a thank you for it. Tell him to join up with us. I'm sure he'll have questions from time to time. Either that or YOU stick around and become a larger part of the forum by trying to help others.