Saturn S Series Sedan SL, SL1, and SL2

Idle hesitation at stops

  #1  
Old 11-07-2006, 11:37 AM
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I just bought a 1993 Saturn - When I come to a stop it acts as if it wants to stall out but it doesn't. When the car is in park it idles just fine. What could be causing this?
 
  #2  
Old 11-13-2006, 04:06 PM
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My 95 was doing the same thing, but sometimes mine would actually die. My problem ended up being a bad EGR Valve. Might wanna check that.
 
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Old 11-14-2006, 12:50 AM
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Indeed, likely EGR gummed up with carbon deposits from burning oil. If you've never cleaned/changed it you're long overdue.....be gentle removing it and you can re-use the gasket if you like....
 
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Old 11-14-2006, 02:49 AM
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Here is a thread that describes with pictures how to clean EGR valve. A new EGR valve for my Saturn would cost over $100. I still have the original in my car with over 148,000 miles. In my opinion, it is a waste of money to replace the valve unless the linear solenoid is shot. The valve just needs to be cleaned, a new valve will just get carbon over again.I just consider the valve cleaning as routine maintance. Ten minutes of my time is alot cheaper than 100+$
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60814

 
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Old 11-14-2006, 03:05 AM
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I personally clean the pintle seat with a strip of rolled up sand paper, after I have depressed the pintle with a small screw driver. Then I reverse the roll of sand paper and clean the pintle itself. It is the matting surfaces of the pintle and pintle seat that stick together due to carbon build up.The same as the butterfly valve in the throttle body, which you will notice by your accelerator pedal initially sticking. When you are done with the cleaning you should be able to depress the pintle with a small screw driver smoothly without any initial increased resistance to it's movement.Hope this helps.
 
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:41 AM
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Thank you all for your help... Im going to try to clean it... If not I know a salvage yard that has EGR valves. THANKS SO MUCH!
 
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Old 11-17-2006, 01:19 PM
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I am having the same problem, but worse. the auto shop tells me its the coil and will cost me over $500 to fix it. I hope it in the EGR valve. The funny thing is that thatsthe code I got when I check it myself but the dealer says that the EGR valve wouldnt be the problem.


thanks for the post[img]smileys/smiley4.gif[/img]
 
  #8  
Old 11-17-2006, 03:55 PM
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I assume you mean the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which is comprized of two coil towers sitting on a control module plate.I went to a salvage yard when mine went bad $42. Sometimes they can loose their ground due to corrosion. I would first try cleaning it/and testing it before I spent the big bucks replacing it.
 
  #9  
Old 11-18-2006, 02:37 AM
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Replacing the [coils and ICM] is a 20 min DIY for &lt;$200 (oem parts)--Replace the entire </span>unit , not the coil packs individually.

Clean the EGR first -- bad coils / ignition problems may be involved, but usually don't cause the car to throw an EGR code.

And $500 to replace the coils is a load of sh*t. Keep your vehicle away from this dealer.

Derf

Edited by: derf
 
  #10  
Old 11-20-2006, 11:11 PM
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Thanks
 

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