Does anyone know if it's possible to upgrade the fan for the A/C/ Heater in my 94 SL1 Automatic with one that has greater air flow?

Related question, is it normal for the wires to the fan right at the plug to get SUPER hot to the touch? Hot enough to where you can get a blister almost.

 

No, it isn't normal for the wires to be hot. You have a defective blower motor and it needs to be replaced. I've never heard of upgrading to one that's more efficient. Mabye one with more blades on the wheel would help? I don't know, but perhaps someone that works on cars for a living could make a suggestion.

 

it was sized appropriately for the vehicle (not).
If you're running on the highest setting, you're likely bypassing the resistor pack entirely and basically running battery straight to the blower motor, which will determine the current based on the resistance of the blower motor windings.

It's ALOT of current. I would not be surprised if the connector is pretty hot. To Rube's point though, you should prob pull the blower motor and check for signs of overheating.

One of the biggest things overlooked when dealing with the internal blower motor, resistor pack, and such is that the vent system needs to be clear. Any obstructions and the motor is forced to work harder to push the air and in turn will draw more current. Also, it is the blown air that cools the resistor pack.

 

I pulled it a few days ago and it was not as bad I I thought, in fact there was only one tiny leaf blocking air flow. Still, to kill time I cleaned the blades. What would signs of overheating look like? Everything looked great except for the gasket which was very dirty.

 

Most obvious sign of over heating would be around the plug connection. If it's not scorched there, then you'd have to disassemble the motor itself and look for signs of scorching around the area where the brushes contact the armature. With that many miles on it, I'm pretty sure the brushes are pretty much worn out and would need replacing. Unless you know where a shop is that rebuilds starters and alternators, I'd say your chances of getting a new set of brushes for the blower motor would be slim. If you get into it that far and discover they're worn out, call around and see what you can find. You'll most likely have to replace the motor, in that situation.

 

We live surrounded by fir trees. The needles get everywhere, they get packed in all the small crevasses on the cars. I recently removed the blower motor, hood, wipers, cowl screen and the resister to remove needles. First I vacuumed the cowl, then the blower wheel area. Now there was a lot of "crud" in the evaporator case. I vacuumed through the resister hole first and that did not work very well. Then I used some compressed air and that stired it up but it did not come out the hole. Then I turned the blower on high and used the compressed air through the resister hole = success. All the crud came out through the resister hole, alas all over the interior. Now a simple vacuum job to clean the interior and the a/c blows much harder.
Andy

 

I will just replace the fan because it's original, runs 16 hours a day on high and with the mileage on this car it matches the fan because it's always on.

On Rockauto I notice the most expensive fan is double the size on the outside compared to the one we have now. So clearly its not identical but it is OEM. Maybe can it be more power? Inside with the fan blades and all it's the same size but the part that sticks out is double in size. I want to install the most powerful fan I can in this 1994 SL1 Automatic SOHC.

 

probably a more robust and better cooled motor

 

If the plug only is getting hot, I would clean the connections of the plug. Corrosion will cause amperage spikes.

 

The plugs are fine. If there's anything like that, it's in the motor so the best thing to do will be to replace the whole unit.