Evaluating options - Seal Job?
 

Hi everybody!


I think I may be in need of a seal job on my 2002 SL2 but am not sure. I am experiencing blow by / and or burning oil, but its around 1 - 1.5 qt every month that I add. I have noticed no blue smoke from the tail, no indication of a head gasket being blown etc. I have started using Stop Leak and for the duration between oil changes, this appears to stop the consumption of oil.


This past weekend, I replaced my IAC control valve. The throttle body needed a thorough scrubbing down due to carbon build up and the plenum is caked also - I took a cloth and wiped out what I could. My idle issue now appears to be resolved, but my main concern now is do I need a seal job.


If I do, how involved is this? I would prefer to do it myself rather than pay $1500, but in saving $$$ I would sacrifice time, as it would take me longer than a mechanic.


I own a 2002 SL2 with around 113K miles
To date, it has been in an accident (damage was all cosmetic on drivers side)
I have replaced the master slave for the clutch, EGR valve, IAC valve, belts, and your usual stuff - brakes, tune up stuff, fuses etc.


Considering today's gas prices and such, I'd really like to keep her going as long as I can. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

seized oil control rings and valve guide seals contribute to the majority of the oil burning in the S Series, It's an efficient oil burning device

Check compression across all four
If you are gonna pull the head, and you plan to drive it into the ground, redo the compression and oil control rings, get a valve job done and get the valve guide seals replaced.

Just my opinion...............

Or keep an eye on the oil level and keep feeding it oil. My SC usually takes a quart between oil changes. Has been for the three years I've driven it. As long as the consumption doesn't change, it's just the way these engines wear. However, if you feel the need to do the ring job, I'm not telling you no.

agreed. No engine work was performed on my 95 until it was burning almost 4 qts semi-synthetic/3K mi = much more if dyno oil. It was at about 180K, and although I did not own a compression gauge at the time, the car had so little power it fought tooth and nail to climb the hills in WV; I think a Saturn tech measured it shortly thereafter below 130 or 140. The service limit is 170.

I am in the process of driving mine into the ground----23x000 and counting.

Like I said in my post ---if you plan to drive it into the ground, then a rebuild may make sense.

Part of the point I was trying to make was that doing a valve job ALONE on these engines doesn't make sense functionally or financially.

Ultimately, IMHO, the path forward depends on your long term plans for the car. Nursing w oil is a fine alternative as long as you are vigilant.

You might just try pulling all four plugs and getting the pistons all up to the half-way point in the cylinders. Then, pour some penetrating oil (I like Kroil) in the cylinders and let them soak overnight. Next morning, put a towel over the holes. crank the engine and blow it out. Change the oil and filter and see what happens. Sometimes you get lucky and and free up the stuck rings, if that's what it is. If you don't have penetrating oil, you can just try using transmission fluid too, although I've never seen it work as well.