i need help badly I have a 96 sl1 It keeps throwing codes no matter what I do I've changed spark plugs,wires, coil pack. it throws the codes P0133-bane 1 sensor o2 sensor,P0300-random cylinder misfire,P1133-manufacturer controlled air/fuel metering,P1406-main control aux emission controls,the most I can get out of anyone is it's a emmissions problem now it's hesitating/jumpy at 1500 rpms and 2000 rpms. I did have a cylinder 1 misfire til I changed the coil pack now it's a random misfire. any help would be greatly appreciated!!


thanks no one else helps me with my car besides meso any advice will help me!!!!


kelly, pa

 

P1406 EGR Valve Pintle Position Circuit

P0300 Engine Misfire Detected
P0133 HO2S Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1
P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1


P1406
Address EGR issue first. Problem is usually pintle valve in EGR sticking, not the position circuit that controls it. This code usually sets when the control circuit senses that the pintle is not moving properly (with respect to where the control circuit is telling it to go).

Service (clean or replace) EGR valve. If you've never done it, you're long overdue.

P0300
It is best practice to replace the entire ignition module (both coil packs + control circuit) to avoid having to chase "misfires" (read: ignition problems) around till you're blue in the face. Be sure to clean the surface where the back of the new module mounts to the block -- you need a good connection here.

P0133/P1133
Address EGR first, as these may be EGR induced due to sluggish pintle movement.

Also -- if you have never replaced ECTS (engine coolant temp senor), replace it -- it has almost certainly failed. Get brass-tipped replacement + connector from Saturn part dept. this should help any drivability issues that remain after you clear up the EGR issues.

Please post resolution

Derf

 

 

The only thing that I would add is how to clean the EGR valve. Since I just this morning cleaned both the EGR valve and the throttle body. Assuming that your EGR valve is a linear activated solenoid valve, start by removing wiring harness clip and then the two bolts that hold the EGR in place. With the valve upside down and using a small screw driver gently push down on the pintle. If it requires more force initially to depress the pintle/ it is probably sticking in the closed position. I use carburetor cleaner an sand paper. With one screw driver push the pintle as far down as possible and with another screw driver going through the adjacent hole, hold the pintle in the down position. I use 1 inch wide strips of sand paper approximately 3 inches long. Roll the sand paper up with the abrasive side facing out and insert the rolled up sandpaper into the pintle hole turning it to clean the carbon deposits from the pintle seat until you see a shiny metal surface. Then roll a fresh piece of sand paper with the abrasive surface facing in and insert it into the pintle hole and release the screw driver holding the pintle down. Pulling and pushing the sand paper roll will remove carbon deposits around the pintle itself. You now have the two pintle matting surfaces cleaned. I use the same method for the motor side, where the EGR valve is bolted to. Only I use a shop vac to remove the debree that the sand paper leaves behind. Use the carburetor cleaner to finish the job and clear and debree with compressed air. Now check the movement of the pintle by depressing with a screw driver. It should move freely without any greater initial force. Reinstall EGR valve and I use a dielectric grease on the wiring harness clip. Not sure of the torque requirements of the two hold down bolts, but if the gasket is damaged, it should be replace. Depending on how much oil the engine burns, this cleaning will last for awhile before the carbon deposits build up to the point of needing to be cleaned again. Hope this helps