Alarm issues on 02 SL
 

No factory kill switches on these cars.

There should be a "Security" LED or idiot light on the dash.
What state is it in with the car when locked with the factory fob? Solid? Blinking?
When you try to start it ( with a properly charged battery), does the security light behavior change? Solid, blinking? Does the behavior change and then stay in that new state?

Your car has a factory built-in theft deterrent system with multiple levels of "someone is trying to steal me" responses.
On top of that it sounds like a previous owner may have installed an alarm system on top o that or possibly a system to bypass the factory one, as they are known to be prone to failure.

Please let us know about the security light status when the car is resting and when you're trying to start it.
Also, please post a picture of the aforementioned kill switch with enough perspective so we can figure out where it is physically located.

For the current drain, I'd start by taking it to Autozone or similar and have them do a load test on the charging system. It's FREE.
Don't buy anything to fix it based on a sales pitch. Just post your results here and we'll help you sort it out.

Is Service Engine Soon light on on the dash?
If so, have Autozone or similar read codes (again, Free) and post them here as Pxxxx, not as the text description, please.

We'll get it sorted out

Solid Security light indicates stock security system triggered or THINKS it has been triggered.
When I hear cut wires under dash I think aftermarket security, stock bypass, and maybe both, The presence of this rogue fob suggests another system has been installed, probably to "bypass" the factory system which is known to be horribly problematic, leading to situations just like this.

How are you trying to arm disarm the system, and which system, the apparent add on? And it has a reset button?

There are multiple modes of stock security system lockout, and a solid security light will prevent the vehicle from running more than a few seconds as it disables the fuel injectors. The car may run two or three seconds, then stall.

Awaiting pictures. If it is aftermarket, see if you can provide us the manufacturer name and part number of the add on module even if you can't get a pic of it.

No dome light?

Sounds like dirty battery terminals, esp the ground at the battery and possibly where the other end of the ground contacts the frame of the car. Did clock reset and were radio presets lost?

Problem is, I think if you disconnect the battery you have to perform a passlock II relearn because the BCM loses the "password". Can someone please confirm this?
Do NOT disconnect the battery until someone answers the question. But do check for battery terminal tightness, corrosion, and corrosion where the neg terminal meets the frame on the other end.

Also possible that the battery was marginally drained just enough to be unable to crank the engine or supply enough current to stuff like the dome light and other things. Battery chemistry is such that batteries can often kick back a bit after failed start attempts due to the chemical reaction inside, restoring a bit more juice than the battery had before. Sounds counterintuitive, but I am a chemist, and I have seen this in real life.

I have an idea as to where the parasitic drain may be coming from but I don't want to jump the gun.
If you get it running smoothly, take it to Autozone and get a full charging system test (FREE) and report results back here. LEAVE IT RUNNING when you go into the store so that you guarantee no bizarre startup issues when you go to leave. Your battery may show as bad from all of the repeated drain recharge cycles. If you have a voltmeter, read the DC Voltage across the terminals with the car cold BEFORE you start it and WHILE RUNNING and post results here.

Also, the two disconnected wires seemed to be touching their stripped ends. PROBABLY don't want that but could also be why your car started. No clue for now.

Search the web for "KARR alarm Removal". There are many posts; I did not go through them but many people want to get rid of this system too.

As I said earlier, you are having issues with corroded battery terminal wires. I should have included for you to check the main positive feed to the fuse box under the hood. Poor connection there will have the same effect as bad battery connections.

Can you perform a Passlock II reset now? I believe that needs to be done when the battery is disconnected. The alarm system is likely activated by default after battery disconnection and the security (built in) system needs to resynch because the BCN has lost power. Try this first, as the symptoms of start/immediate stall are identical to an activated Passlock II system.


Also, you did not answer my question about whether you lose radio presets after the car starts from a situation where you have gotten in and gotten NOTHING. This should tell us whether the battery is truly disconnecting from everything when it won't make a noise.

To check if fuel is present at the fuel rail:
Turn the key to on, let the fuel pump prime, (wait for audible click off while sitting in driver's seat.)
Then follow the fuel rail backwards away from the engine until you find a Schraeder valve. Uncap it. Works like a tire valve. PUT A RAG OVER IT and depress the center pin. You should get a healthy shot of fuel into the rag. If you do, chances are the fuel filter is not the issue. Ultimately best to do a loan a tool from autozone or similar and hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the port and measure fuel pressure with key on AND with car started and going into the stall. This way you can see if it is being starved of fuel. Intermittent running problems like this USUALLY are not caused by clogged filters unless it is REALLY bad.