2001 SL sedan no spark
 

So I recently got my first saturn. It had a suspected bad fuel pump so it sat for a year. Sure enough making no pressure. Swapped the fuel pump and has plenty of pressure, but it still won't spark. Tried both a screwdriver in the plug wire and a plug in the wire held to a good ground. No spark on any cylinder.
I tried doing some reading and did some more tests based on that. I have fuel to the cylinders, power pulsing on the injectors, and 12v to the ignition control module(I read check pink wire to black). I read that the crank position sensor should be 500-700 ohms and it was at 850 or so, so I swapped it with no change. I cleaned off the back of the icm and put it back, checked grounds, no difference.
resistance across one coil is 8.5 and the other is 8.8.
I have no clue where to go from here so I'm hoping for some help

Have you checked the IGN fuses?
Install the plug in the end of the wire and hold the outer electrode to an unpainted ground.

When cranking over the engine with all four plug wire ends removed from the coil packs, You should see an arc between the towers of each coil pack, alternating between coil packs. This is easiest seen at night. Please do this test and let us know the results.

You may also want to check continuity of the crank position sensor CKP wiring from the sensor pigtail to the PCM.

Just because you have voltage at the injectors does not mean they are necessarily releasing fuel properly. When you crank the engine, and then pull the plugs, do you smell fuel on them.? Are they wet?

Also remember if the car sat for a year that varmints may have damaged the wiring.

How about the security light when you're cranking the engine. Is it on off blinking?

I have checked spark with the plug as mentioned and got nothing. the plugs are brand new NGK. the plugs did smell like gas though. I can check the spark across the towers but it will be a day or two as I work 24hr shifts.
to check the continuity from the pigtail am I just looking for the same color wires at the pcm?

also I haven't noticed any security light on or blinking. the car is manual locks and windows and does not have a remote if that makes any difference.

Are you using a new battery? The one that sat in the car, if it was never maintained, is toast, Even if you can get it to hold charge. It will not be able to provide enough current at the correct voltage to allow the PCM and other components to operate correctly. This results in many things, including lack of spark.

Please check the resistance of the new CKP installed to ensure you did not get a dud. Answer these two questions and then we'll see if continuity testing is appropriate.

the battery is brand new, and I will check resistance on the ckp hopefully tomorrow morning.

Where did you get the ckp? I hope not at autozone or advance. I've worked for both in the past and both have ****ty electrical parts. I'd recommend a Chevy dealership for genuine GM sensors. You'll be much better off. I think derf had a great suggestion when he said to check the wiring for chewed through or broken wires. Hey derf, do you know if a faulty cooling temp sensor or ECTS would keep it from firing?

so I forgot to mention I have gone through all the fuses and they're fine. The new ckp reads .950 ohms. Also there is no spark between coil towers.
As far as critters the wiring looks good as far as I can see. And no nests, no hair, no evidence if chewing.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...da46d4bfff.jpg
so I went ahead and checked continuity with the ckp sensor. The yellow wire is goid with that 3rd across the top, and the purple wire is good with that first on the second row

So it sounds to me like it's time for new coil pack? BUT before doing that, check all of your ground connections. Sometimes, just one broken or loose one can drive you nuts. Start with the ground wire for the coil pack. As you know, it's got to be clean and tight.