1998 Saturn SL2 start up electrical problems, need help
 

Hello everyone,
My name's Ed, I'm the owner of a 1998 Saturn SL2. Before I rip apart my car for the problems it's been having I thought I would share a few pics, my dad is an auto body man and we fixed up the car cosmetically if anyone here is a die hard Saturn fan check it out! We did a two tone paint job on it, here's a couple pics:
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/trp2f
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/tty1z

Now, for the flaws of my car. The past few months I've been getting some serious electrical problems with my Saturn. And I need some advice/tips on what it could be. Within this past month, I had problems with my battery dying. I bought a multimeter and tested for a parasite drain - absolutely nothing wrong. The battery problems were getting worse. I cleaned all the connectors and noticed my battery was about 2 years old (the life of the battery), I bought a brand new one.

Car worked great with the new battery, zero battery problems (no drainage or anything). But now something else electrical is wrong. When I turn my key to turn the car on, my car completely dies. The clock and all the electrical components (locks, clock, dome light), EVERYTHING goes. When I jiggle around the battery/connectors, I get things back on, but then it won't start again. I noticed my ground cables next to the fuse box were very corroded, I cleaned them using steel wool and electronic spray cleaner and re-installed it.

The car actually started and I drove up the street and back. I tried turning it on again... BOOM. off again. When I turn my key I hear it "turn" once and then off everything goes. Does anyone have a guess as to what is wrong with my car? Here is some additional info/questions:
1) The battery is fine and holding a charge fine, brand new, and it has brand new connectors to it so nothing is wrong there
2) I cleaned off all the connections as good as I could and I checked all the fuses inside and out... could this be a bad fuse? But why does it start and then not start?
3) I'm starting to speculate as if this is a problem with the "theft deterrent" in the car. My Saturn DOES have a Theft Deterrent, it's written on the radio system, I don't know how to use it or what it does exactly. Would this cause my car to completely shut off the way it is (radio, lights, EVERYTHING)? How would I fix this, or better yet, turn it off?!
4) I DO have aftermarket things installed.. some Pioneer speakers and new Halo headlamps. ALl of this stuff is connected/grounded properly. All the wires were connected using rubberized wire connectors that are all holding tight. Also, this stuff works fine.
5) My dad is deadset on thinking it's a starter problem, but I think it's electrical. Would a bad starter cause all of my electrical components to shut off?

My electrical problems with turning this car on/off started when I got the new battery. It never used to do this before. I turn the key, plop, everything goes off. It did it once when I first got the new battery about three-four weeks ago, I got it stuck at McDonalds of all places. I messed around and jiggled wires and (luckily) got it home. I've since then drove it everywhere, even last night around places, worked perfectly fine. Today, had to go somewhere in a hurry and boom, decides to crap out again.

I would appreciate any tips/advice/suggestions as to what's causing this. I thought this site would be the best place to ask considering there are other current/former Saturn SL2 owners here. It is a 1998 Saturn SL2 with the Twin Cam Valve, DOHC.

Hi there, Ed. Welcome to the Forum --

I would start by replacing the large positive battery cable. For some reason, these cables tend to allow battery acid to get under and inside the cable jacket, and corrode (eat) the cable, almost like termites will do to a 2x4 in your house. Cable will look good from the outside, but it just won't carry the load. Add to this thread, and let us know what you find ...

check positive battery cable for crunchiness and possible deterioration from acid corrosion.

(damn OA beat me to it)

Also -- "the theft deterrent" statement on the radio refers to the fact that the radio can be programmed with a lockout code which is activated when power is cut, to deter thieves from stealing. If you have a keyless entry fob, then you have anti-theft on your vehicle (pretty sure it was standard by 98) -- but this system is a starter disable system, and if you were setting it off when turning the key, the horn would honk and the lights would flash, and you would not get a single rotation of the engine.

Yuuup

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. You guys were right on this positive terminal, I discovered it myself yesterday. Instead of trying to start the car, I just turned the key so my radio and ignition lights would come on, when I did that, the car would completely shut. Then about 30 seconds to 1 minutes later the car would get it's power back.

I took out the battery to clean the grounds and noticed the positive power terminal was completely ruined on a new battery. I mean the metal contact on the battery looked like it got his with a laser blast. I agree with the rubber on the contacts causing acid problems with the battery.

I went to advanced auto parts and bought top-style battery connectors to replace the side connectors with. I jury rigged my own solution for the wires and it works! I hope this will be the end of my battery problems. I'm tired of messing with it. There's two red battery wires, I cut off the side connector with the stupid rubber on it, I spliced these and connected them to the new top battery connector cable. The grounds were a little easier to hook, I ran one to the motor and the extra cable from the old ground I hooked to the nut on the battery.

Your problems will most likely come back until you replace the positive cable from the starter to the battery. Right now, you've got the band aid effect working for you.

And also added a couple of more places where corrosion and acid intrusion can occur ...