i do a complete engine rebuild thats valves, bearings and rings for 1000 dollars plus parts

 

Ok, so I swapped out the ects and plug with some from oreilly auto parts (the new one had white plastic on each end vs the one that came out being all solid brass) and that didn't have an affect on anything..

Still wondering why the two cylinders on the left as you look at the motor have no affect on it running when I pull the plug wires off, while the two on the drivers side stall the engine immediately? Wouldn't that be a red flag as some ignition problem?

Anyways I went ahead and pulled the valve cover off, low and behold one of the two star bit bolts holding the cover on is snapped off and there was a good deposit of oil all over the back of the motor..... could this be the reason why I was going through two quarts of oil per tank while the car was running smooth?

Not sure where to go from here, I will eventually have to get that snapped bolt out of the hole when it gets reassembled, but given the symptoms of the rough running and stalling via the two drivers side most plug wires being pulled, should I try something there?

 

Broken valve cover bolt will definitely leak oil all over the engine. You drill that sum beech out, replace the broken bolt and valve cover gasket and you may solve the oil usage problem. The O'Reilly sensor is a piece of crap as are most after market ones. PM me your address and I'll send you the brass one I replaced even though I didn't need to. No charge to you. All you'll have to do is put some teflon tape on it before you install it.

 

the reason those 2 plugs have no affect on the engine when running is caust there whats called "dead cylinders" could be something cheap as bad plugs, wires o coil pack, however since the plugs are oil soaked its either head gasket, valves or rings, the plugs go ninto the engine so the messed u valve cover gasket couldnt reach the part that fires into the cylinder, my advice if its the valves, a rebuilt head is 300 tops on ebay plus head instal kit

 

Any ideas what to check for the rough running and cylinder problems?

What could explain the compustion chamber and plugs dripping wet with oil then?

 

1. Oil not draining back to the pan due to plugged drain back holes.

2. Stuck oil control rings due to carbon build up, sometimes putting a stoddard oil in the cylinders overnight fixes this.

3. Worn compression rings.

 

How many drain back holes are there under the valve cover and where are they? Can't really tell with my newbie eyes...

If I do the stoddard oil in the cylinder, how do I get the pistons to be even height in the cylinders like was previously mentioned?

If it needs new rings, how hard of a job is that? I have a backup car right now to drive to work and back so I can chip away at it, love fixing things myself at my own pace...

But with my fiance and I just beginning our venture of starting a functional fitness gym here in our town I'll definitely be more busy than usual...

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Good luck with your new business venture, Mr Paul.

I believe someone outlined a method for getting the cylinders to equal levels somewhere in this thread ...

 

turn the engine as in turn the key and just wait till theyre about level? or do it manually somehow?

 

compression test results?