Hello, again.

No noises or warning, but the other day my car wouldn't start. It has about 70,000 miles. It just wouldn't catch the engine - made a roar, roar sign, just wheezing. I thought it was the battery, so called AAA.
He came out and said no, battery was great, all lights working etc. He kept pumping the gas and said, It's the fuel pump. He sd there's a noise the fuel pump makes after the key turns, before the engine starts, and there's no noise there. There was no gasoline smell even though he kept pumping the gas.
He was really sorry he couldn't help and said it would have to be towed. I asked him what he thought it would cost and he sd didn't know - maybe $700. I was kind of shocked.
So I looked it up and it can be about 1200. Here in Los Angeles, probably more.
Then I got scared no one would have a fuel pump I could buy - like when my car was hit - but I do see 2 different types (?) at Partsgeek, so that's good.

I read it could be a long job to replace for some cars. Has anyone here done it, or have it done? Is it hard to do with this car? I need to know how much money I need in the bank...

I used my code reader, and it only told me one error - 26: Torque converter clutch stuck On - which doesn't sound related to anything about starting.

 

I've done it and although not a trivial job it isn't that hard. Both the front and back of the car need to be lifted as far as possible. If you buy the fuel pump module instead of just the pump it is simplier and you get new lines.

 

I have done it on my 95 SC2

Before condemning the fuel pump.
1) check the fuse for the fuel pump
2) check to see if the issue is the fuel pump relay by opening the ipjb and depressing the fuel pump relay test button, which i believe bypasses the relay
3) check a wiring diagram to find which wire carries current to the fuel pump. Measure the voltage of this wire when someone is cranking the engine.

Haven't had a post about a 91 in quite some time
33 years without ever dropping the tank means 33 yrs time for corrosion, vibration, and critters chewing wires, especially if it sat unmoved for long periods.

After you prime the fuel system (3 second hum, then a click) on the first 2 key turns, the fuel system is primed and will no longer continue to prime/hum click.
.
4) check system fuel pressure at the Schrader valve just ahead of the fuel rail
​​​​​​
That'll hold you for a while..

 

Tow truck drivers aren't necessarily mechanics. I'd try unplugging that damned torque converter switch and seeing if it'll start. I had an Oldsmobile once that ran great for about 15-20 minutes then would just die. After sitting for about 30 minutes, it would start and then do the same thing. It was the torque converter lock up switch. After unplugging it, I could drive all day in that car. I gave it away to a lady that helped take care of my kids when my wife had her first back surgery. She was still driving it when we left Kingsport about a year later.

 

Thank you, good info!

 

These are great tips, Derf, thanks! I'll print this out and show it to the auto shop next week when I have it towed in!

I'm the 2nd owner, so I drive it fairly regularly, but not a lot. I'm pretty good at keeping it in shape. It just surprises me that such a big problem happened, with no warning signs at all.

 

True, the AAA guy is just one quick opinion...although he's probably seen a lot of no-starts. Will be taking it to one of the few garages I've found in LA that will work on old cars next week.
Wow, amazing if the error message really had something to do with this problem!
Is the torque converter switch something I could unplug myself safely? Where is it, in the fuse box? I've never touched that.

 

I have no idea where it is on your car. On the 88 Oldsmobile. it was on the "bell housing" part of the transmission at the top on the driver side IIRC. That was previous to my two brain surgeries that caused severe CRS, in my case. Maybe derf knows where it is.

 

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Home >> Saturn >> 1991 >> SL L4-1.9L DOHC VIN 7 >> Repair and Diagnosis >> Powertrain Management >> Fuel Delivery and Air Induction >> Fuel Pump >> Service and Repair

Fuel Pump: Service and Repair

Removal Of Sender From Fuel Pump Module.:

Removal Of Sender From Fuel Pump Module.:

REMOVAL

WARNING:
- Do not allow smoking or the use of open flames in the area where work on the fuel system is taking place.

- Anytime the fuel system is being worked on, disconnect the negative battery cable, except for those tests where battery voltage is required.

1. Remove fuel tank, refer to Fuel Tank / Service and Repair.
2. Remove fuel pump module, refer to Fuel Tank Unit / Service and Repair.
3. Remove the two sending unit electrical connections with needle nose pliers or by pressing down the locking tab and pulling connector off the terminal.
3. Using a 1/4 inch flat tip screwdriver, push in on the sender assembly attachment tang and lift up on the sender.

NOTE: The fuel pump assembly is only serviced as a module without the sender unit. The filter can be cleaned with mineral spirits, however, it cannot be replaced. The fuel pump module to tank O-ring must always be replaced whenever the module is removed from the fuel tank.


INSTALLATION
1. Position the sending unit tang in the locator slot and snap the unit into place.
2. Install the two electrical connectors. Pull back on connector without pressing tab to ensure connector is locked.
3. Install fuel pump module, refer to Fuel Tank Unit / Service and Repair.
4. Install fuel tank, refer to Fuel Tank / Service and Repair.

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Thank you for this.