Those are all oxygen sensor codes concerning all 4 sensors. How does it run? If it runs well, what fuel mileage are you getting. I get 26 mixed city and highway. The downstream sensors are not working at all. The first sensors are wide band and are fairly expensive. Did changing those sensors change anything? Sounds like you are up against an emission test deadline.
I would inspect the ecm connections, remove and reconnect a couple times, and ecm grounds where it attaches to the valve cover.

You stated there are other codes. What are they concerning?
You may have a bad ecm.
My car did not run when I bought it, the ecm had failed.

 

Just so you know, in many states you can intentionally fail inspection (have it inspected while the previous sticker is still good, knowing it will fail.
This leaves you with no emissions sticker. but buys you 30 days during which you cannot be cited by law enforcement for being overdue for inspection. The 30 days is a repair time window.

Assuming you are in a two sticker state, this has the benefit of
---showing you passed the general safety inspection ON TIME and are trying to abide by the law
---buying you an extra 30 days to drive legally while you work on repairs
---Usually there is a max $$ you are required to spend trying to fix the issue. Keep your receipts for parts You submit them to the inspection station who will then issue you an emissions WAIVER for the year/inspection cycle. This lets you drive 100% legally until it is next due for emissions inspection, during which time you are presumably still trying to fix it.

This is how it is in PA. Need to consult your state's DMV resources for your state.

Oh, you also get 1 re-test of the emissions at no extra charge. After that it costs the normal amount

 

You are correct. I checked with some brass pins I made that slip into the connectors smoothly and found 12 volts both going into and out to the O2 sensors. I am not sure if my OHM's meter is working correctly. I will have to find something that has a steady OHM's reading to check the meter. I can only find two O2 Sensors one ahead of the Cat. and one downstream of the Cat.
I am getting a .67 OHM reading on the first one and a .9 on the downstream. If this is correct, then I may have a partly plugged CAT.? They talk about Bank One and Bank Two O2 sensors are they talking about the upper sensor as being bank one and the lower sensor as being bank two?



o2 sensors

 

Your v6 has two banks of three cylinders each. Bank 1 is near the dash, bank 2 is near the radiator. Bank 1 sensor 1 is threaded into the exhaust manifold. Bank 1 sensor 2 is below the small cat in the pipe. The same for bank 2 sensor 1 is in the manifold and bank 2 sensor 2 is below the other small cat in the pipe.

Heater resistance is between 2.4 and 9.2 ohms for the sensors in the manifolds.
Heater resistance is between 5.0 and 12.0 ohms for the sensors in the down pipes.

How does it run? How many miles?

 

(Note that Andy's measurements are for the Hester resistances, not the sensor element.
Make sure you are measuring the heater portion of the sensors completely disconnected from the connectors to ensure you are measuring only the resistance of the heater portions of the sensors.)

 

I'm sorry I don't have a better understanding of the OBD system. I went to Chevy the other day and explained what my code reader was seeing and what I had found on the internet.
The service manager clued me in that none of the O2 sensors and perhaps other sensors would not read correctly with the huge hole in both my muffler and my exhaust pipe right after the resonator,
I had taken the Saturn thru Delaware inspection three times since I arrived in Delaware, with the bad muffler they did the tailpipe scope only and it passed they did not care about the noisy muffler.
This time they plugged into the OBD port, and it failed., So I just bought $320.00 worth of exhaust parts. After I get the exhaust leaks fixed, I will scope it again. Then see if it still throughs out codes and what the codes will be,