Replacing oil pan - Need info
 

Hey everyone, new to the forum here. Should of been on here awhile ago. It would of solved a lot of issues.

Unfortunately, my wife drove our 2004 L300 over a few bumps on a dirt road and nicked the oil pan. It's a small, but steady leak. I have it back at my place and I would like to get some information on how to replace it and where to find the parts to do so. I have been looking around for an oil pan replacement and have found some on autozone going for $700 which seems ridiculous. I have also found some on Amazon ( my go to for auto parts ), however I don't know which one would be the correct fit for this model of Saturn. Would any of you guys know which correct oil pan would the one for this car?

Also, I have worked on cars before, just not this one. Does anyone have a good guide or walk through on replacing the oil pan on a 2004 saturn l300? If so that would help!

Thanks all!

Edit: This is the oil pan that I was originally looking at on Amazon. It says that it fits the 2004 L300 model. Any suggestions?

Your 2004 L300 can have either engine. The oil pan you have listed only fits the v6 engine. Verify which engine before ordering $80.00 is a good price for the v6 pan.

it has a V6 3.0 L engine in it. Sorry.

I don't think you will find a better deal. You will need to remove the front exhaust pipe, but the pan will come out the bottom.

from what I understand these cars don't use a gasket as well correct?

Just follow whatever Andy tells you. You can tell by his user name and reading his posts, that he KNOWS these L Series cars like the back of his hand. Andy is the L Series guru here.

sweet! Does he have a good guide?

There is no pan gasket per say, just use the correct silicone gasket maker in a tube. I have a factory service manual set that covers these cars quite well. Factory service manuals are written for professional mechanics, the Chilton and Haynes are more for the home mechanic.
Your engine has a front cover, GM refers to it as the nose cone. The factory service manual assumes you will remove things for clearance. The manual says:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove nose cone bracket bolts from pan.
3. Remove lower transmission flange to oil pan bolts.
4. Remove oil pan bolts.
Notice: when removing oil pan, use only disignated pry points to prevent damage to the sealing flange. RTV cutter tool SA9123E may be used to break the oil pan loose from the engine block.
5. Use pry points to break loose the seal. Bump the pan with a rubber mallet to loosen the pan from the engine block.
6. Remove oil pan.

I do not use a cutter or rubber mallet. The pry points will pop the pan loose from the block. You can beat on your broken pan if needed.

The factory uses a couple alignment pins to install the pan perfectly. I just apply the sealer and start all the bolts by hand. Since the pan is secured in two directions do not torque any until all are snug.

Factory recommendation is Locktite 5900 or equivalent.

What's the recommended torque on the oil pan bolts, Andy? You know that question is coming!

The fsm says finger tight, then 11 ft-lbs.
Step 2: 30 ft-lbs.
Step 3: the bolts that bolt to the transaxle 48 ft-lbs.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...04e636127.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...7c2d56810.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...a3bedf538.jpeg
Thanks! That helped out a lot.

Sorry all. I just finished replacing the pan this weekend. I know. It's been awhile. Life caught up to me. I got everything installed and so far no leaks with my tests. However! My luck had to fail me and when I went to install the exhaust pipe and the bolt broke. I've posted pictures. Basically two bolts came out with what looks like a pin while the other came out with just the nut. So I was wondering what you guys think I should do.

Did that stud break coming out or going back in? If you can drop the pipe out of the way the broken stud can be drilled out. The exhaust will leak with only two fasteners out of three. You may have to remove the manifold to repair the threads. If you do not have the expertise or tools an automotive machine shop can repair the threads.
The complete stud and the nut can be reused the way they are. The broken stud is the only problem.

coming out. Should I use some kind of rust cleaner on these bolts? Or get new ones? They are fairly rusted, I don't know how likely it would make it to break it going in.

If you're going to have to replace one, I'd recommend replacing all 3. They won't cost that much more and will probably last as long as the car does.

Exhaust pipe to manifold fasteners are a problem for most people. One nut behaved properly and came off the stud. One stuck to the stud and the stud unscrewed. One stuck to the stud and the stud seized in the manifold and broke.
There should be a set of three available at a large parts store in the correct size. Removing the broken stud is going to be the hard part.

I agree about removing the broken one being the hard part. I'd remove the exhaust manifold and go about it that way, rather than try to drill it out from under the car. That's just a couple of accidents waiting to happen.

by the looks of it. It almost seems like I would have to take a lot of the car cooling system out. Is that so? Sorry I haven't updated you guys. Just moved into our new house. Life has been hectic.

Random question
 

I cracked my oil pan badly resealed it now it makes a light rattling any ideas??
2. The engine starts very loudly to like it has a hemi or something.

Do you have to take loose exhaust
 

I'm starting the r&r on my 2004 Saturn L300 3.0 6cyl. oil pan tomorrow do I have to take loose the exhaust?

Is it in the way?

Yes it is being a V6. Exhaust on 20 year old cars can really be a pain to deal with. I finally got my LW300 into the shop for the 100k mile maintenance.