New member...just checking in!
#31
12-03-2018, 12:17 PM
Running only on full blast sounds like it may just be a blower resistor issue. Obviously, there is more to it to that; I'm just saying the blower motor itself might be fine.
I would think that changing the heat / cold setting on the climate control front panel would send a signal to the actuator. If it is plugged in, it should move. But that assumes the wiring to it is good and the climate control head unit is good.
I would think that changing the heat / cold setting on the climate control front panel would send a signal to the actuator. If it is plugged in, it should move. But that assumes the wiring to it is good and the climate control head unit is good.
#32
12-04-2018, 07:18 AM
The best way to see how the sum beech operates the way it's supposed to is go to the Pull A Part and take one apart there in the yard. Use your cell phone to take pictures as you take things apart, so you can put them back together properly. And you can buy any parts you need while you're there.
#33
12-04-2018, 01:47 PM
Pull apart idea is great! I’ve pulled everything apart in this dang car & it’s a flipping mess! I’d say I have a resistor problem cuz there isn’t one! The actuator was just laying inside the panel under the glove box...plugged in but not mounted where it’s supposed to be! The blend door is broken on right side! Im not sure how it was ever working in the first place! Im so frustrated at this point! I still can’t figure out why the blower motor isn’t working! I checked the fuse & it looks fine! Shouldn’t the blower motor still kick on with it on high?
#34
12-04-2018, 01:51 PM
Oops! I guess I said most of that in my last post! Lol! This car is making me crazy! I think that ground wire does go to the factory radio & the car has a different radio in it now!
#35
12-04-2018, 01:58 PM
On the plus side, I guess I’m learning some new stuff! I’ll be an expert on this stupid cars hvac system! I need a garage or shop tho cuz it’s too dang cold outside to be working on cars! I’m freezing! I don’t have enuf meat on my bones for winter weather!
#36
12-05-2018, 07:31 AM
I just saw on the national news that you guys are going to get hit with a lot of rain, ice or snow depending on what part of TN you're in. Believe it or not, I miss that stuff. Too damned hot in FL year round and the humidity is an *** kicker. At least when I was home (TN) I could get a break from it. If all goes well, I'll be a TN native back in TN sometime next year. Not sure exactly where, but probably in East TN somewhere. Probably in the Knoxville area. I'll be close to several friends that way.
#37
12-05-2018, 09:32 PM
Yeah! It’s sposed to get nasty this weekend! Wish I could switch with ya! I’d take warm all the time any day! It’s lookin like we might get one of our infamous ice storms where it rains then temps drop below freezing & everything turns to ice! It’s kinda pretty cuz the trees look like they’re made of glass but it also causes some trees to fall on power lines which causes power outages & roads get bad! I just don’t like the cold! It’s hibernating weather! I only weigh 90lbs...I’m not built for cold weather! Lol!
#38
12-05-2018, 10:41 PM
Sounds like you lost your ground for the blower motor circuit. Trace it back through the blower motor resistor pack. I'm going to guess that the ground is open in the resistor pack or that the ground at the resistor pack is open
#39
12-06-2018, 01:25 AM
Derf! Ur giving me hope! But I’m confused...resistor pack? Not quite sure what/where that is! The actual resistor (computer chip looking thing) is missing or do u mean the plug of wires that should be plugged into the resistor? Help me...I wanna know! I need to know! Don’t even care if I sound stupid for asking! Lol! I need heat again! I pulled the blower motor filter out & looked at the blower motor but didn’t actually take it out cuz I didn’t want to have to remove the windshield wipers & all of that! I couldn’t see any wires without actually removing it & I tried to look up there from the passenger floorboard & couldn’t see that high up or find any wires coming from that general area! I really think it could be a ground wire too since it was working then started randomly going off & coming bk on (sometimes from banging around on the dash or slamming the door)...like a loose wire then just finally stopped coming on altogether...like the wire finally lost connection!
#40
12-07-2018, 01:25 PM
The blower motor resistor or resistor pack, for manually controlled HVAC systems (manual control of blower motor speed USUALLY works in the following manner.
Each fan speed setting routes the current through a different total electrical resistance in the resistor pack EXCEPT the HI setting, which directly connects the battery to the blower motor.
. The total electrical resistance determines how fast the blower motor spins. The higher the electrical resistance, the lower the current flow. So the lowest speed setting has the highest electrical resistance. And so on. When the blower resistor pack goes bad, often but not always all of the speeds EXCEPT. high will not work. Remember the highest speed setting bypasses the blower motor resistor pack. That is why it continues to work when all other speeds have failed.
The high speed setting will stop working if the blower motor connection to battery voltage or the blower motor connection to ground is broken.
Most blower motor setups that I have seen have a simple two wire plug hanging off them and route whatever the output of the blower motor resistor module (including max setting which is the battery voltage) is to the blower motor.
If all speeds except high stop working, it means the output of the blower motor resistor pack is no longer electrically connected to the blower motor. This can be because of resistors that melt, wires that melt, contacts that melt, etc. The point being this behavior indicates the blower motor resistor pack has failed. If the high setting still works, then that electrical path is still intact. If the high setting does not work or stops working, either the ground has been lost usually as part of the connection included on the blower motor resistor pack or the battery voltage input has been lost. Also routed through the blower motor resistor pack.
The blower motor resistor pack is almost always mounted into a vent duct near the motor. This is because resistors get very hot, so the flow of air across them while the system is operating is enough to keep them from burning up. In theory.
I've seen vehicles like early 2000s Chevy Silverado pickups go through blower motor resistor CONNECTOR HARNESSES because the wiring in the harness got too hot or the pins got too hot and melted the connector harness to the resistor module, including the metal pins of the connector, thereby breaking the electrical connections. Your blower motor resistor pack would have to be present for your high blower setting to function so I believe you may have a failed blower motor resistor pack. However since the high-speed stopped working, you may also have an issue with the ground at the blower motor resistor pack where it meets the resistor pack wiring of the car. Or could be same issue with the battery voltage feed.
You need to find the blower motor resistor pack, disconnect the wiring connector, and remove the resistor pack. Do not operate it outside of the ducting as it will likely quickly melt down.
With the harness off you can measure the voltage drops for each switch setting to figure out which terminals are carrying the current on each switch setting. There is a common ground wire, so find that first and measure the voltage drops relative to that
Not sure if the "melted bunch of wires" you mentioned earlier is this issue. I don't know where the blower motor resistor pack is on an L car.
I am well known on this forum for my overly long-winded descriptions and explanations of things that could probably be said in three sentences or less.
If you are still reading this book consider yourself traumatized like the rest. Some people like it some people hate it. The way I look at it, the more useful, factual information shared, the better chance that someone will learn and understand.
Peace out. Have to go clean the entire house
Each fan speed setting routes the current through a different total electrical resistance in the resistor pack EXCEPT the HI setting, which directly connects the battery to the blower motor.
. The total electrical resistance determines how fast the blower motor spins. The higher the electrical resistance, the lower the current flow. So the lowest speed setting has the highest electrical resistance. And so on. When the blower resistor pack goes bad, often but not always all of the speeds EXCEPT. high will not work. Remember the highest speed setting bypasses the blower motor resistor pack. That is why it continues to work when all other speeds have failed.
The high speed setting will stop working if the blower motor connection to battery voltage or the blower motor connection to ground is broken.
Most blower motor setups that I have seen have a simple two wire plug hanging off them and route whatever the output of the blower motor resistor module (including max setting which is the battery voltage) is to the blower motor.
If all speeds except high stop working, it means the output of the blower motor resistor pack is no longer electrically connected to the blower motor. This can be because of resistors that melt, wires that melt, contacts that melt, etc. The point being this behavior indicates the blower motor resistor pack has failed. If the high setting still works, then that electrical path is still intact. If the high setting does not work or stops working, either the ground has been lost usually as part of the connection included on the blower motor resistor pack or the battery voltage input has been lost. Also routed through the blower motor resistor pack.
The blower motor resistor pack is almost always mounted into a vent duct near the motor. This is because resistors get very hot, so the flow of air across them while the system is operating is enough to keep them from burning up. In theory.
I've seen vehicles like early 2000s Chevy Silverado pickups go through blower motor resistor CONNECTOR HARNESSES because the wiring in the harness got too hot or the pins got too hot and melted the connector harness to the resistor module, including the metal pins of the connector, thereby breaking the electrical connections. Your blower motor resistor pack would have to be present for your high blower setting to function so I believe you may have a failed blower motor resistor pack. However since the high-speed stopped working, you may also have an issue with the ground at the blower motor resistor pack where it meets the resistor pack wiring of the car. Or could be same issue with the battery voltage feed.
You need to find the blower motor resistor pack, disconnect the wiring connector, and remove the resistor pack. Do not operate it outside of the ducting as it will likely quickly melt down.
With the harness off you can measure the voltage drops for each switch setting to figure out which terminals are carrying the current on each switch setting. There is a common ground wire, so find that first and measure the voltage drops relative to that
Not sure if the "melted bunch of wires" you mentioned earlier is this issue. I don't know where the blower motor resistor pack is on an L car.
I am well known on this forum for my overly long-winded descriptions and explanations of things that could probably be said in three sentences or less.
If you are still reading this book consider yourself traumatized like the rest. Some people like it some people hate it. The way I look at it, the more useful, factual information shared, the better chance that someone will learn and understand.
Peace out. Have to go clean the entire house