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PWR STR Code removal
So here is the situation. Code popped up. EPS motor was in fact bad. Changed it out without any issues, however, come to find out I need to either have the code cleared, or wait for 100 consecutive starts before the code clears on its own. Auto parts stores can’t clear the PWR STR codes and the dealer wants $80 to just clear the code. Does anyone know a way to clear the code without going through anything that I just mentioned?
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Have you tried just disconnecting your battery ground cable for about 5 minutes? That used to work to clear codes.
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Sorry, I guess I should have mentioned in the first post that I have done all the usual suspects.
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wait it out dude
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Unless you want to spend the bucks at the dealer to get it reset, I'm afraid you're gonna have to simply wait it out.
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May find something with an internet search.
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Well, here is a better one for you! Riddle me this Batman! Have a friend, who has a friend, who was able to get his hands on a GM reader. Went through ALL the diagnostics of the entire car. NOT ONE CODE! The only code that was in there was a history code from when the EPS went out the first day (U1048). Cleared the code just for fun, and still nothing. So to sum it up, I don't eve have a code to start from. LOL! Now it laughable! Any thoughts? LOL!
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Used a GM reader or a TECH II ?
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Tech 2. Now it gets even better. The last time it started was when I left the dealer. Hasn't started again. I get it to start, but it dies right away. It does, however give me enough time to find out that the power steering is working again! which really doesn't matter being that it won't stay running. Do you think that he could of done anything with the Tech 2 that could of screwed up the BCM. I'm thinking of re-flashing the BCM. The only variable here is that the dealer touched it.
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Look at all of your wiring connections under the hood and make sure they didn't leave something unplugged or loose.
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Oh the dealer touched it....I thought it was a friend of a friend of a friend. So why not go talk to the friend of a friend of a friend, or the guy at the dealer that touched it?
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I went through all the connections myself last night. Pulled evrything off the BCM and the ECU just to make sure. No signs of corrotion. It just seems funny that the last time it started was when I left the dealer. Went over and talked to him about an hour ago and he said he didn't play with anything. Without hooking the Tech 2 up to another computer, is it possible to mess with the functionality of the BCM? Anyone know? Like I said, it just seems real funny. Dope at the dealer said it might be the battery because he had the reader connected so long! I wanted to slap him!
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Thanks for the No-Help
This will probably be my last post because I will probably get kicked off after this, but it has to be said. Thought this was a forum of knowledge, but as it turns out, it is a forum of “pozers” as sw2cam puts it. It’s amazing to me that none of you “Super Moderators” could figure out that the F*^king ignition had to be reset after the dealer cleared everything. That’s why it wouldn’t start after the dealer cleared everything with the Tech II. FYI, if you clear to much with the Tech II, it forget the pass lock for your ignition, thus not letting your key start your car. There is a procedure that you must go through to get the ECU to relearn your passlock for your key. ALSO, when the dealer clears too much SH(T with the Tech II, he also screws with the timing, compression, idle, mixture and intake. This also has to be relearned immediately when the Ion first starts again. The whole process takes about 1 ˝ hours, but after that, your golden, and my Ion is on the road again. Rubehayseed, I like you. Sw2cam and Rjion, have fun with the pozer putting the Ion on a S-10 chassis. Look for me on another, more informative forum. I’ll be there. :p
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7 posts and he expects the world.
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So, let me get this right -- the technician at the dealership did a complete "master reset" on the ECU, but failed to perform the 90 minute procedure to allow the system to relearn the passlock? Just how is this oversight the fault of any of those here on the Forum that attempted to assist you with your problem?
Since none of us were present when the work was done, we have to rely on the expertise of the dealership technicians to perform the proper procedures in the proper order -- since they are being paid to accomplish this, it doesn't seem unreasonable to expect competent work. The additional suggestions presented here were based on that premise, and I see nothing in those comments that would trigger such a tirade as you placed here. |
Hey man, none of us here are GM technicians, we're all just backyard mechanics trying to help one another out when we can. I can understand your frustration, but no need to get upset at the mods here. We can actually appreciate what you went through and find what you posted a great help. Now, if someone else comes along with a similar problem, we can direct them to your post. Stick around and contribute what you learn about your Ion. I've never even looked under the hood of one of them to know ANYTHING about them. The 94 SC1 was the only Saturn I've ever fooled with. I'd take another one in a heartbeat if the price were right. I try to give everyone the benefit of the doubt. Sounds to me like you had an incompetent technician take your money and not do a proper job. If that was me that it happened to, I'd go give him a good cussing, not the people that tried to help me.
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