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-   -   Need help! WONT CRANK.... (https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/saturn-ion-22/need-help-wont-crank-11676/)

IMAKING 05-15-2019 03:44 PM

Need help! WONT CRANK....
 
OK these cars are weird. Car just wont crank. Blinks PWR STR and COOLANT. No passlock blinking. Battery is fully charged. And I cant get a DATA link with my ACTRON.

Any ideas, anyone gone through this? (Please dont give me the starter switch recall from 2000 years BC ago).
This just happened yesterday and had to have it towed home. Up until then this car ran just fine.

derf 05-15-2019 08:23 PM

Put your voltmeter across the battery and watch the voltage as someone else tries to crank it.

Also, try cranking it with another car hooked up for a jump start.

And of course check terminals and cables and ground at the frame

IMAKING 05-15-2019 09:46 PM


Originally Posted by IMAKING (Post 62095)
.........Battery is fully charged.........

Thanks Derf, but the battery has been cleared...I've checked the starter too. It's got current, but it's not getting ignition....so I'm thinking the ignition switch died. I've got a few. So I'll try again tomorrow...:confused:

derf 05-15-2019 11:12 PM

The term "fully charged" battery is a bit of a misnomer, as fully charged actually means the highest amount of charge the battery can store has been stored. It does NOT mean that the charge stored within is sufficient for its intended use.
A car battery whose plates can no longer store enough charge can read 12.6 V at rest but will take a voltage dive when you crank it because the current just isn't there to meet the demand at that V.
I can only assume you're stating that the starter is getting current by virtue of the fact that you read a non-zero V at the starter when cranking.

What I'm describing above is one of the things checked when someone does a load test on your battery.

Humor me. I may be dead wrong, but humor me anyway before spending the time to take apart the ignition and do all the passlock relearns----which you can't do if you do not have normal electrical operation of the vehicle.
----------
Random dash lights like this may signal a bad BCM, but let's rule out the simple stuff first.

Cross-checking while diagnosing these issues takes 5 mins tops and often uncovers things that aren't always obvious.

Been there

IMAKING 05-16-2019 08:07 AM

No drop in current when voltmeter is applied and the key is turned into the run. As for the starter what I meant was that I checked to make sure there is voltage at the starter and there is. I also checked to see if I had voltage at the ignition side of the starter solenoid when the key was turned. I got none.

IMAKING 05-16-2019 05:56 PM

I've got another question about these cars. If one turns the key to the run position, can the car be put in neutral? It's locked in park and wont move into gear even though I have the key in run, (car still wont crank).

02 LW300 05-16-2019 11:06 PM

Step on the brake with the key on and you should be able to shift to neutral. The car will roll if on a hill, be careful people get killed this way!

IMAKING 05-17-2019 04:03 AM

Naw that did not work. I already tried that.....:(

19bonestock88 05-17-2019 08:51 AM

Check the underhood fuse box for a relay labeled (crank/run), it died in my wife’s car and it wouldn’t even try to crank... I’m sure that it isn’t cheap to replace outright, but you can switch the dead one for one from a non essential function (I chose rear defog) to get you on the road again

02 LW300 05-17-2019 10:19 AM

Start with the basics, check for proper voltage at all the fuses. Some fuses are battery hot and some are hot with the key in the on position. The fact that the shift interlock does not work properly points to your ignition switch.


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