Hi all,

I'm back after my new slave cylinder install. I've seen similar posts, but none that I saw get a resolution. I thought I'd make a post in case anybody else had a similar issue. I got to the stage where I have finally finished reassembly of all the suspension components and was ready to start the car and begin a test drive. I started the car, which had been sitting for several months at this point, and it started right up. However, I tried to put the car into 1st gear, clutch down, and it would not go into gear. It would not go into any gear. It does go into each gear with the engine off, though. When attempting to put the car into gear with the engine running and clutch down, it feels as though the shift **** is being "blocked" by something, not allowing it to go into a gear.

Here are my thoughts towards a diagnosis:
1. Air still in the hydraulic line
I vacuum bled the clutch, which worked better than I expected. I was expecting the bleed job to be a massive pain, which it was at first. However, I stuck a cone adapter from the end of the vacuum pump hose into the hole in the reservoir that leads to the clutch, which created a seal for the vacuum. Bubbles rose up and I got pressure in the pedal. Previously, there was complete play in the pedal. Now, there was some firmness, and about half-way through its range I thought I felt the "bite point" so I thought I was at least good to start driving, albeit may needing another bleed. I thought there would be enough pressure so that pressure would be applied to the pressure plate, which may not be the case.

2. Improper installation of clutch components
I followed the manual from operation CHARM as well as general clutch install videos. I installed a new flywheel, pressure plate, and friction disk. I made sure I installed the friction disk correctly, with the correct side facing the flywheel and using an alignment tool that came with the LUK clutch kit. I've read that improper installation can cause it not to go into gear.

3. Fluid leak at slave
Since I recently installed this component, I thought there might be an issue here. I didn't observe any leaks from the bell housing, so I didn't think this was the issue. Also, if there was, I didn't think I would get any pressure at the pedal.

4. Clutch disk stuck to flywheel
I have no idea about this. I've read that if the car has been sitting for a while, the clutch disk and flywheel can bind from rust. Although these components are newly installed, I didn't think this was the issue. There has been at least a 2 week gap in between the clutch install and me trying to put the car into gear. The weather has been cold and wet, which made me consider this. I've read that you can put the car into gear before turning the engine on, then bumping the starter to free them.

All in all, I think it might just be air in the line, and it needs another bleed. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I also forgot to add that my shift **** feels slightly "tighter" than it was before. It feels noticeably stiffer, and takes more effort, for example, to move side to side to check if in neutral.

 

Will it shift into all forward gears with the engine not running? if the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel the car will move if started in gear with the clutch released. This happens to my tractor when parked for a long time.

 

Yes, it will shift into all forward gears while the engine isn't running. Just now I started the car in 3rd gear and the car began to move after I let my foot off the clutch pedal.

 

It does release some, how far off the floor before the car moved? Probably just a little more air. The Ion is similar to my L series, the clutch is difficult to bleed with the bleeder location.

 

Air compresses, that is why you have to bleed the system until all the air is out. Same as brakes, all the air needs to be out of the system.

 

From what I could feel, the pedal seemed to move about an 1.5" to 2" before the car started to move. Does this mean the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel? Or just air still in the system, causing it not to engage

 

If the car did not move when started in gear until you started to release the clutch the disc is not stuck to the flywheel. There is still air in the system, the clutch should release higher than 2” off the floor.

 

Quick update. I re-bled the system and I got it to go into gear. However, it still engages closer to the floor than I would like. This is something I will have to tinker around with. I'm glad I'm able to drive the car now. Thanks for your help

 

I've been through this process with my 04 Ion at least three times now. I still feel that it starts to engage too close to the floor, but I am thankful that I can get it to disengage at all. I've learned to live with it!