SES light and ignition switch
 

Hey Guys, I took the Saturn to Nashville today as I had an appointment with my neurosurgeon and it gets the best mileage. I checked it when I got home and it was 39.59mpg. Frigging awesome! Anyway, when I stopped to put gas in it on the way home, after I filled up and pulled out, I noticed the radio wasn't working and I couldn't get it to play. As I looked at the dash, I noticed the Service Engine Soon light was on. At first I thought that maybe I didn't have the gas cap tight, but clearly remembered it clicking when I put it back on. So on a whim, I checked the key and it seemed that it was stuck just a little bit forward. I jiggled it back just a hair and the SES light went off and the radio started working again. Is this an indication that the switch may be going bad and I need to replace it or can I just lubricate it with some graphite? I'm in the middle of insulating my garage and all of my tools and stuff are scattered for now and I can't find my powdered graphite anywhere. I know I have some, it's just going to be a couple of days before I run across it. On a side note, the doc is upping my Lyrica dosage and is scheduling me for epidural steroid injections. The PT has not done a damn thing for me except cost me time and money.

really need to read codes to know what the hey we seed rube

From what you describe, I'd suspect a worn/tired ignition switch. A graphite blast might help it for a while, but I'd start looking for an OEM replacement

If done the graphite thing, mixed with a little synthetic oil. I am not waving the flag of synthetic are a cure all, I don't think they are but for certain general purpose applications where mixing with crud and dirt, they don't seem to have a problem with building up with dirt and that can be good.
I am sure using a lubricant is a crutch, but maybe that was all it needed in the first place.

Well, the graphite helped some. I guess the next time I go to Pull A Part, I'll be looking to see how to take the ignition switch out. Do these have the replaceable key tabs like the Mopars? If so, maybe I can find a kit and just replace the lettered tabs. I did that to my 99 Grand Caravan and it worked great.

With respect to the ignition switch (not to be confused with the ignition lock cylinder) - the Saturn Chilton Manual has a very detailed set of explainations along with pictures to help you remove/reinstall the ignition switch

I've never pulled an ignitions switch. It's hardly been easy to pull the lock cylinders out of the cars I have done so I guess I have avoided it if I could. Mostly AMC in that case although I did repair a tilt steering wheel assembly for AMC (a GM unit) and that was an excercise in intricate frustration, but got it done. Had to, the entire top section swung in a huge big circle. That car was a real piece of crap when I bought it.
I do though have some sort of a manual for everything I own except my New Chrysler T&C. I just bought this year the 4 volumn AMC factory manual for the Horent I am working on.
They are the most important single purchase you can make if you are going to work on your own cars.

ever pull those codes, RuHaySee?

It's been raining here very hard and I haven't had time to pull the codes. I had to take my daughter to the oral surgeon yesterday for wisdom teeth removal. Fun 150 mile round trip. After I got her home, I had to get out in the rain and go get her pain meds. We've had between four and five inches of rain in the past 36 hours and more is on the way. It's raining now. And I guess I should have said lock cylinder and key instead of switch. I know they're different. I just was wondering if I can get a re-key kit for it from a GM dealer.

Aaahhhhhhh --- Lock cylinder and key issues ...

Chilton addresses those issues quite well too. Also, your local locksmith will be able to repin a new cylinder to accept your original key ... costs about $10 here locally

No locksmiths around here, OA. I live in a very rural area. It seems to be working fine now, so I guess the graphite did the trick. I think the next time I go to Pull-A-Part, I'll just see how to get the lock cylinder and key out of one and then find the lowest mileage one and pull it along with a couple of others and if they have the metal tabs like a Mopar, I can redo it myself.

Ruby:
When I dealt with mine last year which was more or less the same thing I managed to squirt some graphite up into it and yes it helped. I also put some 20W50 Mobil 1 on the key and inserted it and took it out for a repeat and between the two, the ignition cylinder sort of freed up and started working more or less normal .
Yuh, it weeped oil a bit for awhile but it quit.
The problem I have here in a way is that with the heat and the UV from the sun, trying to deal with any of the interior pieces including the air bag cover touching the plastic is one thin step away from breaking something I no longer can replace because the plastic is so brittle.

I hear you Uncljohn. I cleaned the rust out of the spare tire well yesterday and then primed and painted it. I was wondering why the dashboard was so danged noisy, so I removed it to see what was up. I'm referring to to the top piece with the vin cutout. Anyway, when I removed it, I found that two of the clips were broken off. I used some Loctite epoxy on them and will see later today if that's gonna hold when I reinstall it. I really like this little car and don't mind putting a little money into it here and there just to keep it going. The big cost for me will be replacing the struts and wheel bearings. I'll have to save up and buy one piece at a time and then spend a whole day doing it. Or two or three.......

The danged things are likable arn't they. I don't know why they could not make a go of it. I have replaced two front wheel bearings on these. They are supposed be non-replaceable but I have a 12 ton press in the garage. With that a lot of things are replacable that rumour has it you can't And a couple of years ago I had a chance to pick up an entire passenger side strut assembly including steering knuckle and brake rotor, and caliper. Everything. The tie rods were torched in two and the strut unbolted from the top and actually the lower control arm is actually the sway bar doing dual purpose. A really strange design that works flawlessly.
It is in my parts baskets for round tuit repairs if needed.
As a side note, I spent the day refining the fit of the Hornet Engine Mount Cross member and lower control arm support so that I can bolt in my Mercury Marine engine in it. I had the orgiinal modied so that it can support the V8 and still give clearance for the block hugger header exhaust pipe on both sides and retain the lower control arm and access to the camber adjusting screws. Dang, it came out exactly as I visioned it would. The fabricator worked off my measurements and a cardboard and masking tape mock up.
Now this engine is a straight bolt in, including the shift linkage from the OEM column shift to the 700r4 transmission that will replace the torqueflyte 904 that is in it.
When I have the exhaust pipes made a 45 degree angle just off the header flange will point the pipe between the starter on one side and the oil filter on the other side and clear the strut rod for the lower control arm. and then zip out towards the back with out interferring or running into anything.

Good luck with that project, UnclJohn. It sounds very cool. You'll have to post some pictures once it's done. Oh, and hey Derf, I ran the codes yesterday using the old paperclip method and all I got was a 12. So apparently the engine is in good shape. I really like this car more and more as I drive it. I just wish I could find some decent seats for it at Pull-A-Part. Do any of you guys know of any other GM cars that the seats would interchange out of? There are a TON of Chevys, Buicks, Olds and Pontiac's in that yard.

none compatible

you could buy a racing seat and race unc when he's done

Ha! That's a good one, Derf. I'm not driving out to AZ just to get my butt kicked.