Ignition and brake advice needed
 

My son drives a 2002 SC2 automatic and it has several issues I would like to fix. 75,000 miles.
1. The brake pedal is spongy. No ABS. I put new rotors and pads on the front and need to put new shoes on the rear. The brakes have been thoroughy bleed several times and they still feel to same. I can force the pedal to the floor. I suspect the master cylinder needs either rebuilt, or in my case, I will just replace it. Comments?:eek: Scary!
2. It has been getting harder and harder to turn his ignition switch. You put the key in and go at it for 15-25 tries before you can get the key to turn so you can start the car. Yes, we are cranking the steering wheel as we do this. Is this just a bad cylinder and key? I had new keys made 15 months ago they were no better. Can the steering lock mechinism cause this? Is it easy to replace the cylinder if that is the problem?

That's enough for now https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/im...cons/icon5.gif

Thanks in advance for any advice.

First have a new key "cut" at the dealer. Do not make a copy of a warn out key. If that does not fix the problem replace the cly.

One can force the pedel to the floor on most any car. Cheap pads often do not feel very good. The Delco pads are ok but the Saturn branded were better.

Without touching the brake start the car, then press the brake pedel once to feel where it goes, now pump it four times and see if it's higher. If not you do not need to bleed the brakes. Once done if the pedel sinks to the floor under moderate presure you may just need that master cly.

Unlike Saturn I hope KODAK turns around. I only by KODAK cameras, printers etc.

I find on mine that wear has caused the ignition switch to work a bit wonky and has been for some time. A combination of any pre-loading of the steering wheel when locked which means wiggling it so it is not wedged against what ever stopping it and gently pushing the key/ignition switch straight in towards the steering column while turning it is what is requred routinely to start the thing. I have done it enough that now it is habit and regiously doing so has avoided the need to take things apart and try to find replacement parts.
Seems to me I have read more than one problem with this and certainly more so than any other car I have owned.

As to the brakes? I have never had a Master Cylinder problem that did not also involve leaking. I guess I have never had a Caliper or Wheel Cylinder problem that did not involve leaking either. At least none that I can remember, oh wait, One! My 1930 Model A had mechanical brakes. At their best, they did not stop the car and I had a brake rod break once.
I do not use OEM style brake pads or shoes I will generally up grade to semi-metallic or now Ceramics but if I had to guess, if the pedal goes to the floor and the car does not try to change lanes when stopping I would point a finger at the Master Cylinder.