Nice job, dude.

I was counting on that gunk being flux that had oozed out of the solder joint over many years -- only shorting to the jumper last week.

You have a knack for the detail-oriented work. I'm jealous.

Thanks for the many pictures as well.

Maybe you should advertise for Saturn odometer repairs. Ya never know! Might be a good income.

Thanks guys. I've had that cluster apart and back together at least 6 times. Can do it in my sleep now. Frustrating that the components can't be bench-tested separately without reassembling it completely, but I imagine they never planned it to be user-serviceable. Just replace the entire cluster assembly if it goes bad, except for the lights. The pop-up headlight mechanism is the same. The gear housing cover is glued on, and the dealer would never repair it, just put a new assembly on. But with a $10 nylon gear and some effort, it's fairly easy to repair.

In any case, I hope my struggles with this project helps others in the future ;)

Epilogue:

Picked up a couple 2 packs each of #73 and #74 bulbs at Auto Zone while I was out working. Came back and tested all the bulbs. 3 were bad so I replaced those, and I put new bulbs in the turn signal positions. Put all the dash pieces back in place, and everything works as it should.

Thanks again guys for the assistance, AND for the motivation to take it on!


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...a9a37a6cd7.jpg

That interior shot sure reminds me of the gold SC2 that I had. Thanks.

If those seatbelt motors still function, make sure you keep the tracks lubed. Those motors seemed to give out way too easily. They always sounded like they were struggling just doing their job

Hadn't even thought of that. They actually sound fine and operate well. In fact everything operates very well now. Power windows, AC etc. Would you suggest silicone spray in the tracks? I don't know the last time the serpentine belt was changed, but it looks to be in great shape No signs of cracks or drying out.I know it's not original, as my folks were good about routine maintenance.

BTW I tried to remove an old faded blue So Cal AAA sticker my Dad put on the left side of the rear painted bumper cover. No luck. Used heat, goo-gone, vinegar.Those AAA stickers would survive a nuclear attack! So now having a faded, slightly-removed AAA sticker, I punted and covered it with another sticker just slightly larger (only 3") and IMO it looks better. Lots of folks around town have these and other city sticker on vehicles.

Tach and odo and pop-up headlights still working, and it handles great with the new Goodyear Eagle RSAs. Love cruising around town in the old Saturn!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...1395c19212.jpg

Odometer now speeding up and slowing down
 

ARGGG!

Just was driving and noticed the odo was going WAY too fast. Put my Garmin in the Saturn to drive to a spot 3.3 miles away and it registered 3 miles before I was 1/5 the way there. Then I noticed the odo pauses, then acts normal, then speeds up again, especially if I hit the gas and rev the engine. Saw an old thread on another Saturn forum that suggested a specific capacitor on the speedo board may be fried, but I didn't see anything odd when I had it opened. They said it controls the voltage. But the speedo works fine and registered the same MPH as my Garmin GPS. Both the tach and speedo have no jerkiness either.

Oh well, looks like I get to remove it all again...

This is the cap:

ECA-1JHG100 -

Electrolytic Capacitor, 10 µF, 63 V, NHG Series, ± 20%, Radial Leaded, 5 mm

Any other suggestions?

By the way been doing some more reading, it could be the VSS, I'm going to take it for a long test drive tomorrow at a higher speed on the freeway and check the speedometer to see if gets jerky, also test the cruise control. People say if it doesn't work it could be the VSS, also a lot of people say that about 60 miles an hour the speedometer will start acting up. I've just been driving it around town.

The speedometer and odometer have different electronic circuits that feed them, so an issue with one will not necessarily correlate to an issue with the other. Not saying it can't happen, it depends what the input is to each of those electronics modules. I believe the tach gets a square wave signal then converts via a frequency to voltage converter into a voltage that drives a motor behind the Gage.

Capacitors in most simple circuits are usually employed to filter out high frequency noise riding on a lower frequency signal. The high and low are relative and determine what capacitance is needed to work in that particular circuit. The capacitors are also used to stabilize general fluctuations. You will see these on power supply output. They are huge capacitances and are there for the sole purpose of keeping the voltage constant. If you lose those capacitors, then you will end up with an unstable voltage situation relative to how it would be if the capacitors were intact.

A capacitor burning out is the equivalent of a capacitor going open circuit thereby essentially not being there electrically. it is very rare for capacitors to internally short in the sense of remaining that way. Meaning if one internal shorts it will melt until it goes open circuit. if you see no signs of mental two capacitors then it has broken down internally and is open circuit. You can actually check this with a multimeter that can measure capacitance.

As for the tracks for those motors, I'm trying to remember if it is a geared motor riding on a tooth track or another configuration. The last time I drove my 92 SL2 was in 1996 before I trade it in on my 97 so forgive me if I have forgotten. I would poke around on the internet and see if there is way to internally lubricate the motor. Many of this type of motor or internally sealed for life in which case you cannot do anything about it. Looking at track keeps the motor from having to work harder than it needs to. If you can remind me of the motor and track configuration then we can figure out what to use to keep it lubed.

Earlier in the thread I mentioned that the 3 odo traces all come from the speedo board. I suspect that person that blamed the cap on the speedo was right. As you said, if it's open, the voltage will fluctuate, which seems to be exactly what is happening. Waiting for morning traffic to ease up to get on the freeway and see how the speedo acts at high speed etc, but suspect that cap is the problem. At least now I can have the dash apart and cluster opened in a half hour or so. Not the daunting task I first imagined. After this is solved I'll look at the seat belt motor etc, but again, they're operating fine.

Hey, just searched and found a 1994 SL2 that arrived very recently at a salvage yard not far away. Those have the same cluster as the SC2?