19bonestock88 slays the dragon!
Temp stayed around 210-215F with the heat on full for the high intensity passes, not high enough to trigger the cooling fan lol
engine speed was kept above 3500, the longer straights would see it hitting 5500-6000 (or I would shift to third for a moment). Coming out of the first gear corners I shifted to 2nd at 6200, and the downhill portions were sometimes ran in 3rd to give the engine a short reprieve from its beating
to be fair on those dragon runs at speed I showed my powertrain no mercy whatsoever, but as a result I was keeping up with cars that had twice the power or more (that road largely takes power out of the equation)
engine speed was kept above 3500, the longer straights would see it hitting 5500-6000 (or I would shift to third for a moment). Coming out of the first gear corners I shifted to 2nd at 6200, and the downhill portions were sometimes ran in 3rd to give the engine a short reprieve from its beating
to be fair on those dragon runs at speed I showed my powertrain no mercy whatsoever, but as a result I was keeping up with cars that had twice the power or more (that road largely takes power out of the equation)
Last edited by 19bonestock88; Sep 29, 2019 at 09:43 PM.
It occurred to me that instead of having drastically taller gearing if I could only spin the engine a little higher I could manage an all second gear Dragon run. Given the lack of tuning support for the stock E16a PCM i’d have to go to a full standalone EMS, but from what I’m aware the stock valve springs are good to 7200... that would get me almost 65 indicated in 2nd, though the engine in its current configuration doesn’t make much power up there, it starts falling off above 6000. LE5 intake manifold would solve that, and give me an additional 5-10hp up top... hmmm
At what point do the rods get angry and want out? I remember looking clear through a 427 Ford engine at the stock car track. The owner was not very happy, he had towed from Vegas to Bakersfield to race and had spun the engine a little to tight.
People have taken our stock valves and springs to 7500 on boosted applications. They're interchangeable between the 2.0 2.2 and 2.4
Lsj are sodium filled and lnf has a better smaller dome to boost CR.
L61s rods give out around 250 for the average joe. J Body guys have gotten them to 300. But thats all in the tune as well with a lot of support.
Theres a supercharged ion in Michigan that was in the 270s before he swapped to forged internals to upgrade the blower.
Don't really need a standalone. Piggy back with a cavalier/sunfire pcm. Just have to turn off vats in the tune.
You seem intelligent. I'm sure you can achieve your goals.
Lsj are sodium filled and lnf has a better smaller dome to boost CR.
L61s rods give out around 250 for the average joe. J Body guys have gotten them to 300. But thats all in the tune as well with a lot of support.
Theres a supercharged ion in Michigan that was in the 270s before he swapped to forged internals to upgrade the blower.
Don't really need a standalone. Piggy back with a cavalier/sunfire pcm. Just have to turn off vats in the tune.
You seem intelligent. I'm sure you can achieve your goals.
Look up huckernage on YouTube. He’s got a cammed stock block L61 spinning 8K. Granted I doubt the L61 crank would like doing that all day but I can’t imagine brief trips to 7200 to be much of an issue. Even the LE5 which has a 98mm stroke (versus the 94mm of the L61) is redlined at 7K in most applications it’s used in
using a Cavalier PCM would open me up to HPTuners support, and allow full tuning...
I acquired an 05 vue and an lsj motor today. Using the vue for demolition dirby race. Then ill figure out if imma put the lsj rods and piston on my 2.2 crank.
But anyways.
Run the harness parallel to the stock harness just like you would an aftermarket piggy back system. Look at what the dune buggy companies are doing. You can cut up a stock harness for fuel, ignition, and crank. Then just tap into your stock harness. Boom.
I mean, a littlw more complicated then that. But you get the jist. Can get a jbody harness and pcm from a yard for cheap. Hell I'm sure you could use another ion harness and just make sure the pin out is the same. I'm pretty sure it is tho. I don't remember. Drank and smoked a lot since I last looked.
At any rate I’m not gonna do a parallel PCM mod anytime soon since the car is still my daily, but I had considered seeing if one of the off-road fab companies (alpha fab comes to mind) can supply an engine harness and tunable PCM. Still not sure how it would be possible for the two PCMs to share data from, say, CkPS, VSS, ECTS, etc so gauges work and both PCMs get the data they need to work
You're missing what I'm saying. You will either splice in or add a secondary sensor for what doesn't supply enough voltage to the secondary pcm. The companies that make these harness make em for the pcm strictly. You'd basically have to make a fuse box and harness for gauges and such if you wanted the car to run like a buggy and keep all functions. Or ditch all that and use aftermarket gauges for the Speedo and fuel.


