Help ac/fan
#11
understood.
no harm, no foul.
Even with all the fiber they're running for internet and cable, it's STILL really hard to see through the internet to the person on the other keyboard.....
carry on
no harm, no foul.
Even with all the fiber they're running for internet and cable, it's STILL really hard to see through the internet to the person on the other keyboard.....
carry on
#12
Seed my son will fix his own car lol he knows what to do and its a ford lol ...i started the test I seem to have a leak no pressure or nothing in the system then I ran out of coolant and didnt have enough to do much of anything so ill have to wait till the weekend I do have an expansion valve (new) but just alot of work when I did have freon in it with the compressor running it was warm air so im guessing a clog seeing as its a very old car I will give it all a good going over for leaks and replace o rings as needed and just do the valve .like I said everything was perfect last year holding vacuum and working perfect and super cold .i dont think it would hurt to do the valve and fix any leaks while im at it I have everything i need except a new can of cooler
#13
pay special attention to those high and low side Schrader valves.---just drop some soapy water drops in there (or be uncouth and use spit) -- it has to be a healthy leak for it to be empty already. And likely a leak that requires only a tiny system pressure to begin draining the system. A stuck open Shrader core will do just that. Yes, it could be somewhere else, but if it held vacuum, it was with the cores depressed. If you re charged the system, it was with the cores depressed. Nothing else except the pressure switch has been monkeyed with so I would start with these as the most obvious places to look first
#14
Jonas to derf
Ok so I went ahead and changed the Expansion valve by the location I thought it would be a nightmare but it was quite easy about an hour and some patience I cleaned all the fitting areas nicely and I had a bag of ac gaskets left from the compressor job I soaked them all in pag oil and very carefully put everything back then went to the pressure switch and I had initially missed the gasket on that so I pag and replaced with a new one then ran vacuum for a couple hours and tried it still no power to the fan or compressor .it kept blowing the ac fuse in the engine compt. I realized earlier on (i may have mentioned before) that a little white box thing ran from the ac comp to it and a cut off ground in it .this was a diode to protect the system .so I pulled it open and attached a gator clip to the black wire and to the car everything came on .I had the diode hooked up backwards from when I had messed with it last time lol .needless to say I filled the system the rest of the way and everything is good nice and cold and my back buttox and heynows dont get all sweaty and gross while driving to work lol thank you all and mostly derf for your help and patience I really appreciate it .If you like I have another issue or two if you wanna take a guess .1.my odometer is fixed but does not run at about 50 or sixty mph and I get a chk engine light .I suspect a speed sensor .last time i got that light the paperclip code told me egr I changed it and it was fine no light .this time I dont get a code my levels are good as far a fliud. What do you think ? 2.I have rattlle that is driving me nuts I have bassically all new pulleys but its still there its when I step on the gas for a bief moment and at about 35mph it will come again It doesnt seam serious just annoying lol .3. Last but not least my driver side window has to be pulled up the rest of the way it works a bit and I hear the motor but it just stops and clicks but cannot find the regulator assembly for this model .is it that im missing something ? I was wondering if the motor gears are just stripped and I could just replace that because the gears on the reg seem as though they would be pretty strong and not strip .I guess ill pull of the panel and have a look .Im just curious as to your insight on these issues .thank u again ..saturns rule lol
#15
1) missing seal = leak
2) backwards diode = no current flow in the direction you want it to go
3) first I am hearing about this white box thing with wires. Of course I have the memory span of a grape. Anyway, there is an AC diode in the underhood junction block. I'm guessing somebody burned it up and actually messed up the slots into which you would place a new one. Had to attach to the circuit from underneath the junction box. With nowhere to mount the diode, I guess they built a little box for it.
4) please do not ever discuss the moisture level of your junk on this site again lest I be forced to take disciplinary action
5) what type of rattling sound are we talking about? Is it tinny? Solid sounding? Default first guess would be the heat shield on the catalytic converter. They usually rattle at idle in drive or in neutral. Don't remember what year your car is so I don't know if it has a pre cat . The rattle I am talking about is the main cat. It is under the car the sound is such that it can sound like it is coming from multiple places. Other random guesses are exterior panels rubbing together at the edges, loose right front marker lamp / turn signal on right front fender, hood vibration due to Misadjustment of one of the two adjustable "bumpers" mountain in the frame at the very front which push back on the hood from underneath when it is closed to keep it from rattling. A bad upper torque access engine mount on an S car well cause the entire front of the vehicle to rattle has the vibration isolation is no longer there.
I don't remember your other two questions I can't see the post right now so I will tackle them in another post
2) backwards diode = no current flow in the direction you want it to go
3) first I am hearing about this white box thing with wires. Of course I have the memory span of a grape. Anyway, there is an AC diode in the underhood junction block. I'm guessing somebody burned it up and actually messed up the slots into which you would place a new one. Had to attach to the circuit from underneath the junction box. With nowhere to mount the diode, I guess they built a little box for it.
4) please do not ever discuss the moisture level of your junk on this site again lest I be forced to take disciplinary action
5) what type of rattling sound are we talking about? Is it tinny? Solid sounding? Default first guess would be the heat shield on the catalytic converter. They usually rattle at idle in drive or in neutral. Don't remember what year your car is so I don't know if it has a pre cat . The rattle I am talking about is the main cat. It is under the car the sound is such that it can sound like it is coming from multiple places. Other random guesses are exterior panels rubbing together at the edges, loose right front marker lamp / turn signal on right front fender, hood vibration due to Misadjustment of one of the two adjustable "bumpers" mountain in the frame at the very front which push back on the hood from underneath when it is closed to keep it from rattling. A bad upper torque access engine mount on an S car well cause the entire front of the vehicle to rattle has the vibration isolation is no longer there.
I don't remember your other two questions I can't see the post right now so I will tackle them in another post
#16
Jonas to derf
Ok so I took it for inspection on mon morning it passed 2 small lights out yay .i found the rattle it was a combo of the pass side mirror the heat sheild just above the exhaust in the center and a pulley .I had been having lots of pulley trouble over the last year .This time I suspected the tensioner again due to other issues i changed the tensioner drive pulley and belt all at once .and fixed all the other issues as well .so far so good all quiet .the mechanic was impressed by all the work lol new tie rods in and out control arms brakes rotors 4 engine mounts and rear sway links and some other little things as well .yayy!! Ac is working great as well super cold!!
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