I posted earlier today for help on a 97 sl2 that is driving me crazy, and now my post is no where to be found in any section-what happened??

Hello all, I have a 97 sl2 with 1.9 dohc, and it has a major problem
right now. When cold it will start right up and run good, but to start
it you must hold the throttle to the floor, and when it warms up if you
shut it off it will not start back up. It will try if you hold the
throttle to the floor-what it does after cranking for about 5-10
seconds is starts for a split second revs to like 1500 and the dies
immediately. I have replaced the spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator,
ignition module, map sensor, disconnected the battery to reset, new air
filter, pvc, and probably more. Only things I have not replaced are
tps, crank angle, computer and oxygen sensor....Any ideas?? Please!!
Oh yes I did a block off plate for the egr_but still left the
electrical connector hooked up-no check engine light either...The egr
is the first thing I did.. Oh yes when it does start up it is running
RICH-black smoke coming out of the exhaust, and stutters like it is
choked and then it slowly comes around and revs up and clears out, I
also disconnected the charcoal canister...I just thought of something
else, the temp gauge does not work-stays on cold all the time. i wonder
if it could be the sending unit telling the computer that the engine
is cold and injecting extra gas-like the choke on????

If you posted it in the New Member Area ... I deleted it.
Edited by: sw2cam

No it was in this section..general tech help...

No idea ...







IP Address 72.191.51.240
City NEW PORT RICHEY
State or Region FLORIDA
Country UNITED STATES
ISP ROAD RUNNER HOLDCO LLC.


Is that close to san antonio texas





Edited by: sw2cam

I am in sa texas, I have no idea what that new port richey is about....

I think I have it figured out. The coolant temp sender is saying the engine is -8 degree celcius when it is about 80 degrees outside. I unplugged it and the car starts right up and runs great-just check engine light is on now..Got the new sensor going to be here in a couple hours...

FYI it was the coolant sending unit-replaced it the gauge works the engine starts beautifully cold or hot and runs and drives great...

Celcius you say .........

correct-with my nemisys obdll tester-that is what it read-like below freezing even when it was 100 degrees F here...

FYI

Your question has been asked 1000s of times in this and other SATURN forums its almost mind numbing to see it asked again when a little research and problem solved .... results the same each time.

I use trash cans, I do not litter unless I''m going on a road trip. If that road trips takes me via texas I save up all the trash I can just to pitch out the window when in texas, thats what I think of their slogan.Edited by: sw2cam

Pretty common issue.

LOL, me too(on the trash deal)-I hate Texas and got to keep people employed picking up garbage!!! Sorry about asking the many annoying question-I do not own a saturn and this is the first time I have been on a saturn forum(working on it for a customer), and I did a search for about an hour before posting, but I am gone now and will probably never be back(unless this saturn or someone brings in another one with a problem that I cannot figure out like I normally do).

OK, I am back!! This same car just came back with the check engine light on and doing a comical thing. The temp gauge is acting weird-popping up from cold to 1/4 way up and then dropping back down, and at the same time the engine rpm''s are going from 500 to 1500 and back and forth. The trouble codes are engine control relay and trans temp sensor. I can clear the codes and the trans sensor comes back immediately and the check engine light goes off but immediately pops back on....any ideas?? I have done a search but nothing comes up. I figure one of you saturn experts know exactly what is wrong with this car...Thanks Bob

Failing ETCS is an extremely common thing. And not just in Saturns. And the funny thing is dealer know this. They''ll recommend all kinds of expensive work and then just replace the sensor. See it happen many times.

Had a friend with a Civic with similar simptoms. He kept taking the car to the dealer and after nearly $1000 in sensors replaced and $200 worth of engine, tranny and coolant flushed, the problems was still there. I suggested to him that he change the coolant temperature sensor. $20 later the car was running fine.