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Tool for removing difficult nuts

  #1  
Old 08-26-2016, 09:14 AM
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Question Tool for removing difficult nuts

OK - one last question. Whats the best tool to remove those really hard nuts (e.g. brake caliper nuts). I think one person on you tube demo - had an impact wrench. I see "CRAFTSMAN 3/8 IN. BUTTERFLY IMPACT WRENCH" for sale and wondering if I should get that - for future brake jobs. Question is - will that take them off easy like seen in the video?


I also just noticed he turned the wheel out - that seems like that would help too. How do we get a sticky on the whole process?
 

Last edited by 01saturnsc2; 08-28-2016 at 07:48 AM.
  #2  
Old 08-26-2016, 01:19 PM
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you write up a new thread with stepwise directions and a list of needed tools, supplies, etc.

I as mod can sticky it in Gen Tech since it applies to multiple models.

You need to be very careful with impact guns on stuck bolts. The thicker ones can take the repeated impact but the smaller ones, not necessarily. There are usually different force levels you can set. If you're not cautious about it you'll twist the head right off.

I'm sure he soaked it multiple times with PB Blaster, waited 24 Hrs, then broke it loose, put it back in tight, then turned on the video camera. No one posts a how to showing them losing a battle w a bolt.......

Also, that caliper bolt should not get cemented in there like that. Make sure you clean the rust out of the threads before reinstalling it.

Also the only drawback to the single bolt swing n change for brake pads is that you don't get the opportunity to inspect the upper slide pin for proper grease /lubrication
 
  #3  
Old 08-26-2016, 01:35 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I was able to check the upper pin (since it was all the way out when changing) - and could lubricate it as well (the sliding part). Just could NOT unscrew the threads.
 
  #4  
Old 08-27-2016, 09:08 AM
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I don't suggest using impact tools on the brakes anywhere unless you're disconnecting the caliper housing from the backing plate. Hand tools and some muscle should be all you need. The torque on most of the bolts isn't that much. You break one off and that's when the fun really starts. NOT
 
  #5  
Old 08-28-2016, 07:47 AM
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ok - makes sense too. What about good sockets? Do some have better walls than others - because I seem to round them while trying to get the caliper bolts out. Are there special sockets for heavy stress?
 
  #6  
Old 08-28-2016, 10:38 AM
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Yes, you get what you pay for with tools. Professional mechanics use tools from the tool trucks. They are premium quality and premium price. Most of the tool truck tools have a lifetime free replacement warranty and they come see you each week. This is also where the specialty tools come from, i.e. a 12mm 12 point 1/2" drive impact wobbly to remove Ford driveline bolts, you don't find this at Home Depot. There are good tools available at the box stores and parts houses but you have to go there to get them.
 
  #7  
Old 08-29-2016, 08:04 AM
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The best style socket for working on cars is a six point socket. You're more likely to slip off and round corners with a 12 point socket or open end wrench. I have primarily Craftsmen tools from Sears. I also have a nice set of deep well sockets from Blackhawk. I like the Kobalt tools from Lowes too. Protos, Snap-On and Matco all make quality tools too. You buy the cheap crap from Autozone or Advance, prepare for broken tools and a lot of blood and skin left on your cars.
 
  #8  
Old 08-29-2016, 08:06 AM
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Andy.

I've been told by several professional mechanics over the years that you can only get the dude in the Snap-On truck to stop by if you have an account with them, and by that I mean you spend $$$$ on an initial layout to set up that account. is this true?

For instance, there was a stud remover I borrowed from a Saturn Tech for a bout 4 hours (think it was Matco, not Snap On) which had about 300 parallel vertically aligned metal "slivers"and a spring around the rim. You use it by putting the tool down over whatever is left of a broken stud and turning counterclockwise.

As best as I could tell, the counterclockwise action tightened up the slivers (which were not cylindrical) , it gripped the stud, and out it came.

I've never seen another quite like it but I have always been told that the guys on the trucks will not sell you a thing unless you are either a pro mechanic or a $$$ DIYer w an account, as they have to routinely account for their inventory and if it doesn't add up...........

On the same topic, my craftsman sockets are getting worn down after 30 yrs and the new stuff coming from China wears faster in 20 min than my orig set did in 20yrs. the gears on the new ratchets are awful. I cannot justify SnapOn or Matco across the board.

What would be your suggestions, in order of preference, AFTER SnapOn and Matco?

Coulda used a wobble socket when I did the rear struts on the S cars ---up against the rear window base......
 
  #9  
Old 08-29-2016, 11:19 PM
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Until this latest job, 12 years, I have had a Snap-on, Mac and Matco tool account. We have Snap-on at work, we are industrial customers so we don't see the retail truck but just call and they send it to us. We do buy some Napa Pro series from time to time but Napa makes nothing so I don't know who makes their stuff.
 
  #10  
Old 09-07-2016, 06:38 AM
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Harbor freight impact sockets - seem pretty good (strong and don't strip under force so far) - and of course best price out there.
 
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