Replacing a subframe on an SC2
 

Folks,

I'm considering replacing the subframe on my '97 SC2 as it is rusting and weakening.

My question is: how do you remove the existing subframe and install the replacement subframe such that the squareness or trueness so to speak of the frame is maintained? I think a complicating factor is that the subframe is already distorted, so how would you know how to line up the replacement? Is it simply a matter of the bolts lining up in a very particular way such that you cannot put it on unless the rest of the frame is square? If so, what do you do if you take the rusted subframe off and cannot reinstall the replacement due to misalignment of the fasteners?

The vehicle has 80,000 mi on a rebuilt engine that burns no oil. The body is a bit scraped but I am putting away some money to get the body work done on the plastic and possibly a full paint job as I have no idea how anyone except an auto painting wizard could match 24-year-old black gold metallic paint with respect to dispersion of the metallic flakes. I suppose they could do an entire panel but I can't see it looking right. No experience with that so maybe I'm just being picky in my mind.

All thoughts welcome.

When it turns 25, it no longer needs to be inspected in Pennsylvania so I figure I will turbo it up like the kids did back in the days but no fart can. Then I can race my wife in the Audi haha. Not.

If your car is similar to my car which would make sense the nuts float a little bit. This is to allow some movement due to parts variation. You will probably need to get an alignment when all done to center the steering wheel. Your big issue is going to be getting the bolts out. The nuts are the type that have the clip built in so they can move around and not fall out. This part may be rusted away and you might really fight getting the bolt out if the nut spins. Lots of PB blaster and soak them for several days. The swap is not difficult if the car is not rusty.

This was a DD in NJ for 17 straight years...the subframe is rusting badly in some places, breaking through in others. I'll have to check around the mounting bolts to see if this will be a nightmare.

Oh no, not those blind hole style nut+retainer things except they are kind of attached/welded?

Plus I'll need at min a support bar on top of possibly a hoist to prop handle the weight of the engine. Then up in the air. Not sure if I'll have Lift access anymore.

I want to put one of those quick disassemble li fts on one side of my garage but I know my wife will effing kill me if she comes home to it. I'm not sure The scissors type will give me enough clearance. Plus buying one at the beginning of a recession is likely not a good idea though if I'm not working I will at least have time to do it. Still have my job for now.

Thank you for your advice, sir.

Mine just cracked real bad and I found a subframe I can put in but I'm not sure if I should have a repair place do it or how much it would be, no idea what I'm getting into or what I'll need to do it right. Any thoughts?

It depends on your skill set, and available shop space. The job entails removing bolts that have not turned in almost 30 years. Things never go as planned, the nuts will spin, a cutting torch might be involved and you will bleed. I have a hoist and a transmission jack to lower the frame. I also have done this kind of stuff all my life. If your car is rusty from living where they salt the roads the job may not be possible. I would get a quote from a shop and see if anybody is interested. Then we can advise you.