FSM info needed : 21011109 Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder/Caliper Bolt, S series 1991-1998
 

Can anyone with a FSM for a 1991-1998 SC2, SL2, or SC2 please give me the tech specs on this hex head flange bolt (thread pitch, etc?) Rear caliper bolt. Fronts are different.

Yes I can go to the metric bolt aisle in home depot and figure it out --but if you have full specs (Mx - y x z mm ) that would make my life much easier

Thanks

Brake Caliper Housing Bolt - Rear
Product Line: NAPA Ultra Premium Brake Parts
Per Car Qty.: 2
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UP|83004|UBP83004_0094818527|0|Brake Caliper Housing Bolt - Rear
Hope this helps
Andy

That's the part num for the "slide pin" bolt pair on the moving portion of the caliper.

I'm looking for the bolt(s) that hold the entire caliper to the rear hub.

Thanks for checking, Andy.

I've scoured Partstrain, rockauto, partsgeek, ebay, and all gmpart......com sites (and Nalley link) with no luck. I contacted the one online merchant that said they were still in stock-- well, they're not. GM discontinued in 2013.

And I have to get the car inspected in 5 hours so it's put back together for now ( I have one frozen that the head has begun rounding off (starting to slip with 6 pt socket and box wrench). But they are craftsman so who knows; bolt corners don't really look damaged too badly

I have soaked the crap out of it for days but the rust is way way deep if it is similar to the other bolt I was able to remove.

I need a bolt extractor set anyway.

But first I need to find something to replace it with, or have a buddy grind it down to a 9 mm after pulled, but that seems kinda lame to me although it addresses the problem of a functional replacement

Replacement found.

However, I would truly appreciate it if someone w a FSM for a 91 to 98 S(x)2/could check and see if the bolt spec is in there. Thanks.

Always interesting when you find your own post while revisiting the same issue you never solved 5 years ago.

I am once again wrestling with these caliper bracket retaining bolts (hold caliper mounting bracket to hub). got by all these years b c they did not stay in place long enough to rust like this.

I want to meet the person that designed these to be a 10mm bolt head.
Next I want to meet the person at KYB who made the radius of the flange at the bottom of the strut 1/8" too large so that it is pretty much impossible to get a normal socket with an extension on it aligned properly.

I suppose I now understand why they make individual sockets with the wobble part integral to the socket.
I suppose I also now understand that I don't have them, I have a bolt extractor hammered onto the one I rounded ever so slightly but can't use the impact to finish breaking up the rust I soaked all night and then torched to no avail.

I also realize that I need to upgrade the other 1/3 of my sockets that are not 6 pt to impact six point, Some of these tools are 30 year old Craftsman and have had a good life, but there are certain things you just can't use them for.
I managed to round off 2 bolt heads with a six point 10mm socket because I did not have it perfectly aligned while applying immense manual torque (without line of sight).

My impact set for 3/8 only goes down to 12mm and even then I'm hosed without the wobble -- 2 actually -- 10mm for the one I haven't wrecked yet on the other side, and 16 for the extractor.
Gee I think I'll buy a set of wobble sockets..

More tools.

Recommendations on something a home mechanic wannabe can afford.
No complaints on my 30 year old craftsman stuff other than the dimensions were never perfect to begin with and things like 10mm s are plain worn out. Oh, I tore a 10mm 3/8" 6 point already. Took me two tries to realize the socket was spinning easier on the bolt (strip)

If I work on the Ford I will need wobbles. That is one crazy axxed POS to work on, especially without a lift.
Now that I am more active again in the garage, my aging body is truly protesting the concrete and I am truly protesting the inability to apply properly aligned torque to things I could do rather straightforwardly with the right access.

I know it is illogical for me to buy an inexpensive but safe 2 arm lift, but the scissor jacks that go up 4 feet are almost as much, and I'm not sure I want car on a scissor jack 4 feet in the air.

So anyway, recommendations on affordable impact wobble 6 pt metric socket brand appreciated.

I don't know a dang thing about Craftsman quality since they went to lowes. Well I've heard it is all overseas, not partially.
Kobalt? Husky? no clue.

My 10 yr old deep socket 1/2 " drive impacts are fine.

Thanks

/RANT

The alternative is of course to disconnect the shock from the hub and pivot it outwards, but that means loosening the lateral arm and trailing arm (I think).

You can do camber adjustments but that's fractions of a degree, not 90 degrees.

If I do that I might as well just put in new shocks now.

I need to closely inspect the cradle on this one too. The vehicle is not yet inspected.
I can talk my way through that if I put enough $$ into the safety stuff (read: brakes).
And I can pass the smog even with it running so funkily.

Why is it so comforting to be addicted to something that is worth literally nothing to anyone else?

The Napa Carlyle tools seem ok and they have some wobbly sockets. I replace some lost Snap-on tools occasionally at work with Carlyle since they are faster and cheaper. I also don’t mind cutting or grinding a Carlyle into a “special” tool.

I am also thinking about putting a 12 valve Cummins and a 5 speed into my 36 year old GMC pickup. Old age does things to the brain.

You're not old. You're "experienced."

Thanks for the recommendation.

Changed the fuel filter in the 95.

How does one property clean a fuel rail and test injectors.

I'm asking because there is a noticeably smoother running to the 95 since I put in the new fuel pump. Still vibrates like hell but exhaust note is decidedly more even

Did find a wrecked lower dogbone mount on the driver's side.

Once I put the new canister and purge solenoid in, I'm out of stuff to do to the 95 till the ^&$#=°£ ACDelco studs and lugs come in next Thursday.

Years ago I purchased a fuel injector cleaning tool set from OTC I think. I can buy the cans of pressurized cleaner from Napa. They have two brands each with a different pressure in the can. The 40 lb can works great for the tbi cars and trucks that were popular in the early days. The other cans have 100 psi push and work fine on the new stuff. I tap into the fuel system either at the test port or directly in as needed. Cap the return or all the cleaner goes to the tank. I remove the fuel pump relay and run the car until it runs out of pressure. Then open the valve to the correct pressure and run the car on the can until it runs out. I let it sit for 10 minutes then run a second can through it. This seems to fix most injector problems even the “do not clean” Ford injectors.