Lord knows what kind of gunk is inside the present fuel pump. Since you're dropping the tank and pulling the fuel pump anyway along with the sender, replace with a unit that comes with its own sender.

The strainer for the pump is probably all gummed up anyway.

There is a Carter brand pump that comes with the sender already attached. At RockAuto.

You need to get the rear end of the car up a little over two feet to be able to drop the tank and slide it out from under the car if you do not have a lift. You probably want new bolts that hold the straps on and the other ones have 27 years worth of rust on them unless you do not live in the snow belt. I used a new lock ring to attach the new pump to the tank, but the old is likely okay.

Use a proper 3/8 inch fuel line disconnect tool to unclip the lines that attach the pump to the car fuel system. You can buy spares at AutoZone etc. I suggest you do.

If the tank has a bunch of gas in it like you mentioned, in theory I guess you could siphon some out after you disconnect the filler pipe. The more gas that is in there, the heavier it is when you take the straps down and the more unwieldy it is to handle while lying on your back with the liquid sloshing back and forth while you are trying to move the tank without wrecking the lines that attach near the pump that you cannot yet reach because the tank is still up. If you catch my drift.

Also, once you do pull the tank, take a flashlight and look in there. There's probably a bunch of precipitated crap hanging around on the bottom. It's good practice to rinse out the tank with some fresh gasoline, disposing of it properly. You don't want all that crap getting pulled up into the new pump and clogging your filter up. And no, You cannot just take out the rear bolts on the straps and pull the tank. It just won't work. It is my experience with these cars that the gauge always reads higher than the actual fuel level. The same could probably he said for most vehicles by design. But if it indicates one quarter full and I add three gallons that should make it half full it ends up reading 5/8 full.

Also, if you are banging away at the lock ring, it better be with a brass punch and dead blow hammer unless you like fiery explosions in your face. Brass does not spark. If you catch my drift. No point in starting the job if you catch on fire in the middle of it. It's truly a two-person job to maneuver everything and especially to reconnect things as there are funky tabs at the ends of the straps that must be positioned in a specific manner once you are holding the tank up where it needs to be. That already uses two hands so unless you can rig up some type of cheesy support mechanism for the tank that is adjustable, you'll have a hard time doing it yourself. Have your girlfriend help you. If not her, then have your wife help you. I wouldn't let the two meet.

I will follow all that and agree that is the best approach . Regarding a previous post of yours, I was researching motor mounts on rock and in relation to your advice on the one consumable item, I found a “ kit” that I may be interested in but wanted your input. If you could please look at a 4 piece kit that has all necessary mounts to replace all engine and trans. mounts and advise if you would go that direction. Again much appreciation for your time and insight.

As far as mounts go, the other and lower TAM take the vast majority of the abuse as they keep the engine from rotating in the engine bay due to the fact the engine is transversely mounted.

The vast majority of vibrations that are transmitted into the cabin are from a worn out upper TAM. Doesn't sound like this car got much love over its lifetime if it was left sitting for 6 years. I think you said it was in the garage so it's only 3/4 as bad. It can't hurt to replace them all. You will probably want to get a Chilton or Haynes book. I would say for you, the 93 to 99 because it has some very nice complete layouts of how all of the sensors connect to the PCM and to which pins, plus the fuses as part of the diagram. It's way out of print but it's out there even if you buy it used on eBay.

​​​​​​I would buy the DEA kit. Only because others say it is better than the rest and I bought one and left most amounts in except that the upper TAM is still an OEM one and I have used ones that aren't quite dead. Just make sure you follow the directions and do not put a hole in your engine oil pan with your jack. Use a piece of flat wood between. If you over torque the nuts on the studs that the TAM mounts on, the studs will snap right off so use a torque wrench. Also, there are different length mounting studs for the upper TAM depending on which style of mount you get so just order the kit for the 95 and everything will match. It's when you start playing mix and match that you f yourself over.

Once again thanks for the guidance. My choice is the DEA/Marmon MK5003 kit. It appears to have all the mounts and 2 dog bones , as we call them, for a complete change of mounts. Mucho gracias to you Senor .

I agree on the Carter.

One question I forgot, on the rock auto they refer to 1st design and 2nd design in reference to the upper TAM. I am assuming that mine falls in the 1st design type. Sorry not a question but a question?

First design indeed. Seconds design looks like a :-( from the side and it's a piece of crap as far as being a mount goes