engine problem
 

i have a 1998 sl1 high miles has just started missing /hesitation at around 35-45mph some times then picks back up after working gas pedal then runs fine does not always do it

Sounds like it's time for plugs, wires, and coilpacks.

have replaced plugs and wires no engine lights or codes how can you check coil pack to see if breaking down

considering the complexity of todays fuel injected, computorised engine there are numerable things that you can guess at that might be the problem. The basics are fuel Air and Electicity.
Fuel, a dynamic measure of fuel pressure will tell you if you have that right, I have not figured out how to do that either and drive too so maybe checking/replacing the fuel filter would be a good thing to do. The old if you can blow through it, it is good rule still applies.
Air? How about a dirty air filter. That will catch you by surprise every now and then. It has me, cause things run so maintainence free for so long you forget you need to do something.
Electricity. Well lots of connectors going around. Is anything corroded? Try unplugging and re-plugging stuff like connectors to fuel injectors, spark plug, coils or what ever is the substitute for that. I keep a tube of grease for connetor applications handy and re-lube things before putting them back together. Battery connections, ground connections, things of that nature.
Not too long ago I worked on an old Toyota that was being driven by a retired lady on a budget which translated to if it ain't broke don't spend money on it.
It broke, no money to spend.
It was an ignition problem. When I remove the spark plug wires they came apart in my hands. The distributor cap turned into distributor cap dust. It had to be OEM. (she bought the car new a really long time ago) I could not believe it. Powdered distributor cap. I nver saw one do that before.
It was my birthday present for her. She paid me with Choclate Chip Cookies.

unc, pls stay on subject (diagnosis).
I know you're tryin to help but I gotta draw the line at blowing through fuel filters, old Toyotas, and distributor caps.....

----
CP,

1) Have you ever replaced ECTS and connector? When failed this will usually cause an abnormally rich fuel mix which can lead to bogging in specific RPM ranges.

2)Are the wires and plugs OEM ? Stock (NGK) plugs work best. Hope they are not platinum. These ignition systems don't like em.

3)Make sure wires are < 12,000 Ohms
4) Coil test:
disconnect all plug wires from coil towers ---noting which came from where
crank engine while having someone watch the coil towers. Should alternately see a strong spark across each.

Check resistance of each coil pack -- should be 7000 to 10000 Ohms.
_______
You stated high miles -- may want to consider a compression test to get an overall view of the basic health of your engine.....

O.K. derf, no more toyotas, the point being though, todays motors will take a lot of deterioration befor operational failures take place and as far as diagnosis goes. If you can blow through a fuel filter, it ain't plugged. No sense in spending money putting one in that isn't needed.

charlespete
 

1998 saturn missing now has a engine code of miss fire cylinder 2

what were results of recommended checks above?
Have you changed anything since last post?

went ahead and changed plugs and wires runs fine no miss at all

excellent news -- another S car down the road on all 4 cyls

now i have a new problem as i slow down for stops with automatic trans the rpms jump up what should i check first no codes

trans problem
 

had codes of 2nd and 3rd gear ratio wrong what controls this

Oa? Oa?

Well, sounds like the motor has been gone through enough to get the common problems -- let's look elsewhere. First place I'd go would be to have a transmission service run (flush, filter and fill).

new problem
 

trans acting funny with shifting has code P0733

O.k, this is a definition of a P0733, Circuit Description;
PCM applies 3rd gear clutch by opening ground ckt of 3rd line actuator. PCM also controls hydraulic pressure to 3rd gear clutch. If PCM detects 3rd Gear clutch slipping, PCM will increase line pressure. If clutch is still slipping, PCM will set DTC P0733
I don’t know how comfortable you are dealing with automatic transmissions. I am not that comfortable with them myself.
You need some form of a service manual to deal with this and you should be able to by something adequate at your local auto parts store.
Your car is high mileage so wear and tear is to be expected and the transmission probably needs some service, such as oil and filter change. If so, than I would recommend that it be done at this point in time. While I am not a fan of automotive fix it in a can, Lucas additives have done wonders for me and I would suggest that if you change the fluid and filter, that a can of automatic transmission additive be included. This could be an electrical problem due to corroded connectors so unplugging and plugging connectors are in order and the use of an electrical connector grease be used at this time.
It appears that there are both sensors and control actuators involved in the operation of the transmission at this point in time and a failure of either could be a cause along with mechanical wear and tear which would require a rebuilt.
I don’t know what to suggest that is a positive fix. Getting lucky with a connector problem and a fluid change would make me happy at this point in time because frankly as the car is a high mileage 12 year old orphan requiring what may be an expensive repair, it just might not be worth spending the money on.
Mind you, I just spent $1500.00 and about 100 hours on my 94 doing paint, mechanical repairs and upholstery work. It makes no sense but I like the car and it came out the other side in excellent shape which made it worth it. It could have just as easily been a waste of time and money.