About a month ago, I had the service engine soon come on in my 1994 Saturn SL2. I found a mechanic who found the code to be I think 27? could have been 26. Anyway, he didn't like the code as it could mean several things. With the light that came on...I only noticed my seat belts weren't working along with the scarey light. I had the car worked on and he replaced the motor mount which the car did have a very bad vibration, and said the speedometer stopped working along with the odometer. He said he'd have to send the speedometer to someone to see if they could fix it and the service engine soon light stayed on. Something about the sensor had something leak into it.That costs me $209.00[img]smileys/smiley19.gif[/img] I tried to put it off until after income tax but then this ding ding ding noise came on constantly and I no longer had a working gas gauge, hot/cold gauge and no light indicator. He said he tried to find a new dash cluster through junkyards with no success as finding one close to my mileage so he worked on it yesterday and got it back to where it was after the $209.00 cost and added $82.00 more to it to say it was a fuse that had blown and he found a wire that had probably had blown it under the dash. The wire had touched metal and this resulted in the whole thing and I'm suppose to bring it back in next week sometime while he does some research on the internet to see how to repair it. Am I being taken? Since the seat belts and this light all happened at the same time, are they related? He says no.Are motorized seat belts covered under a lifetime warranty? I would appreciate any help or advice and thanks in advance.

1) Upper mount should not cost $209. Ripping you off.
2) Probably a Code 26 (Quad driver output fault). He must not have liked this b/c he would have to THINK about how to fix it....

3) Code 26 -- Service Engine Soon (SES) was probably triggered by a bad passive restraint module (controls the seatbelts). Speedo signal goes to the passive restraint system so that the module controlling the seatbelts knows how fast the car is going. However, when the passive restraint module goes bad, it often mucks up the signal going to the speedometer such that the electronics for the speedo and odo can't decipher the signal.

He likely blew the IGN1 fuse while messing with your dash cluster (totally unneccesary) which would have taken out all the dash gauges, including the temp, fuel, speedo/odo; charging you $82 was probably the hour of labor he wasted trying to figure out what the f&*! he did that killed the entire dash cluster.

A) Take your vehicle away from this guy before he wrecks your dash cluster
B) Take your vehicle to someone who knows Saturns.
C) Probably needs only a passive restraint module to return everything to working order.

Please keep us posted.

Derf

Thanks Derk for your help. I just called a Saturn dealer and the passive restraint module would cost me $319.00 plus whatever labor is. I can't afford to do that right now as I've just paid out almost $300.00 already. I wish I would have found this forum sooner and gotten your help. I wish I could get this guy to pay for it. I'm going to have to try and wait on getting it fixed as I don't have the money right now for all of this. I really appreciate all your help and especially confirming they were all related as I thought they were and letting me know I was getting ripped off. Thanks so much!

P.S. Is this something that a mechanic can get at a junkyard and be installed cheaper than going through a Saturn dealer?

Edited by: undun

Undun,


I think I like that giraffe thing, pretty creative.Not to be so inquisitive , but are you not mechanical at all and are you a woman. Don`t get me wrong if you are I have nothing against woman, in fact I love them.You can find anything in a junk yard.If you need a cluster or something of that nature and you have a sohc engine I have one if you need it.the ding ding noise is under your consol under your fan ac/heat controls.I do not have the control unit that is under your hand brake and quite possibly the worst place in the world for it.You need to get a hold of someone honest to help you.these are easy fixes for a true do it yourselfer. State each problem as in one two three and maybe I can help.I suck at typing but will try.


Good Luck


Darryl T

it actually sounds something like what is going on with my car right now... which i have a post on it (01 sc2 electrical HELP) it actually sounds pretty much the same, but my car had a lot of diff codes on it... let me know what the results are for sure... might help me out.

onesmartscdt,</span>

Yes, I am a woman and not mechanically inclined so I had to resort to finding information out on the internet to try and find out what is going on. I think Derf would know more than me if you've got the part I need but I don't really think so being as you don't have the part that's located under the hand brake or prndl section.</span><br style="font-weight: normal;"><br style="font-weight: normal;"></span>jeffroe18,</span><br style="font-weight: normal;"><br style="font-weight: normal;">If you think you're having the same sort of problem, after getting information from Derk, I investigated further and found this helpful and it might be helpful to you as well.</span>

</span> http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...28/is_200209/a i_n9119546
</span></span>
</span>
</span>

undun,


Words spoke so welland at the site as well. The component is in the worst available spot. This is a pain yet junk yards are a mans best friend or in this case a very savy and intelligent woman. Hats off and you have resourceful way`s if you need a starter ac/pump full cradle assembly, power steering assembly fully intact, cv`s, struts, sunroof auto tranny I have all parts separated and pictures on alot of items.


sc2 parts door skin bumper side mirrors or similar items if you need them just say so.


Darryl T

Undun --

Glad to be of assistance. I doubt you'll find a functional passive restraint module in a junkyard -- unless it is a new arrival to the yard. Can't hurt to look but don't get your hopes up and don't pay too much for one from a yard.

Maybe you could just buy the part and have a friend put it in. (?)
Call around to several Saturn dealers - $319 sounds awfully high just for the part......

Here are the directions from a 91-93 Saturn Chilton Manual (should be the same for a 94 but can't guarantee it) (Sw2cam -- any thoughts?)
____
To remove:
1) disconnect negative battery cable
2) remove the access panel above the Passive Restraint Control Module (PRCM) at the rear of the center console. Remove the four screws securing the center console.
3) Raise the parking brake to the fully engaged position.
4) Raise the rear of the console sufficiently access the PRCM
5) Gently depress the plastic tab on the rear of the PRCM while lifting upward. Remove the CPA (I think this stands for "connector positive assurance") device and remove the PRCM.

To install:

6) Install the PRCM under the console, then snap the rear of the bracket into the metal locking tabs.]
7) Install the wiring harness connectors and the CPA device.
8) Position the center console and install the retaining screws.
9) Install the center console access panel.
10) Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope this helps.

Onesmart: if you have goods to sell, post them in the classified section -- don't jack tech question threads with "I have all kinds of sh&amp;# to sell you that has nothing to do with your problem" Thanks.

Derf

Hi again Derf,

I hope you know how much your help you've given is appreciated. I've been looking around online and found several sites I can order this from and the cheapest I've found so far is here
I might be able to afford this and then the only problem will be finding someone to put it in for me. That's still a lot better off than I was last week so I feel like I'm getting closer to getting my problem solved. Just wanted to ask if you think this is a good price and if you might know about how much one of these weighs to kind of determine extra shipping charges.

Thanks again,

Mona[img]smileys/smiley1.gif[/img]

Price seems much more reasonable.

Get the Saturn Part # (from Saturn) and be sure that this place can match it up as the exact replacement. Also be sure they have a return policy that states UNOPENED electronics stuff can be returned.

Be sure to pull the old one first and match it with the replacment BEFORE opening the replacement.

Shouldn't weigh much of anything (shipping cost should be minimal).
_______
Alternative option to restore speedo/odo and use seat belts:

I think if you disconnect the speedo signal feed from the (bad) passive restraint module, your speedo may start working again since the passive restraint module won't be mucking the signal anymore.

As for functional seatbelts, I believe the cars with passive seatbelt systems shipped with a metal latch (one for each side) that you can mount in the track at the end closest to the back of the door. This allows you to manually connect and disconnect the shoulder belt. No more painful than a normal seatbelt experience.....

I think they were in the back of the glove box (I used to own a 92 SL2 many years back). I'm sure you could get them from Saturn Parts Dept...... cheaper and equally functional as far as safety goes.

Derf

Hi again,

I think I like the option you gave me for the time being anyway. When more money becomes available to me, I'll buy the PRCM. Am I right in assuming that the PRCM is a device that just makes the seatbelts electrical? I'm already using the seatbelts like normal ones that you have to buckle yourself.

In disconnecting the PRCM, do we disconnect the "connector positive assurance" or the wiring harness connectors? I assume we still disconnect the negative battery cable.

Thanks once again for your help.

I believe you will need to disconnect the CPA to get the harness connectors off....pull the neg battery cable just to be safe before you start.

Should work "in theory".....

The PRCM senses when the doors open/close and sends a signal to activate the motors that move the latches in the tracks. I am assuming that it monitors the speed of the vehicle in order to be sure the belt doesn't move forward in the track if you're going at any appreciable speed -- but I never tried this on my '92 SL2 (would involve opening your door at highway speed [img]smileys/smiley3.gif[/img] to find out...)

Are the belts stuck in the track all the way forward or all the way back?

Derf

When it first happened, the driver side was stuck in the forward position and the passenger side worked sporadically, the mechanic moved the driver's side back in the track and it has stayed there. After the last fiasco, the passenger side stopped working in the front position and I got the extra latch you had talked about and placed it in the back position.

Your theory sounds good as from the related article I found after I had seen what you put here.

You may be relieved to learn that diagnosis of the circuit takes a
low-tech turn at this point. The quickest and easiest way to verify
whether the passive restraint system control unit has failed or is
influencing speedometer operation is to disconnect the unit's wiring
harness connectors. Drive the vehicle. If the speedometer now works,
the passive restraint system control unit is the culprit.</span>

Edited by: undun

I would recommend the "extra latch" be used on both sides until you get this all fixed -- I don't know whether the normal sliding latches in the track are truly "locked in position" if you manually slide them to the end of the track.

My concern is that they (the normal sliding latches in the track) might </span>slide forward in an accident (which of course no one wants to happen).

Derf

I really don't know what to do next. I took the car to the mechanic who originally worked on it because I had already invested money with him. I know, you had said to stay away from him. I thought if I went armed with the PRCM being the culprit, it would help. He didn't charge me for doing anything else but he said he's get to the module and I'd have to pull the plug or he'd be liable. I went there yesterday and he didn't do anything about disconnecting the negative battery and he said he disconnected it and for me to drive it and see if the speedo worked. It didn't and I'm back to square one.[img]smileys/smiley19.gif[/img] and the speedo and odometer doesn't work and the service engine soon light stays on. I have this dinging when I shut off the car that sounds like the ding ding ding in the second round when the fuse was blown but when I take the key out of the ignition it stops. His attitude was much different after I mentioned it could be the Restraint module and I did show him that article I had found. When it didn't work he said I didn't think it would and said I'd have to try some electrical place to call and have them check it out. I've already put out all the money I can at this time on the car getting repaired that I don't have anymore to spend for guesswork. I don't know what he's done but I still tend to believe that if when it first started, we disconnected that PRCM first, the speedometer might have worked. Thanks for all your help again Derf.
Edited by: undun

Undun, Undun, Undun....

What am I to do with you??

KEEP YOUR CAR AWAY FROM THIS GUY!

He doesn't know Saturns. Waste of time, money, and worry.

Was the stuff in your center console still in your center console after he "disconnected the module" for you? If it was, and seemed totally undisturbed, it's 'cause he DIDN'T DO ANYTHING.
Probably couldn't get the center console open (doesn't know Saturns). Probably lied to you about disconnecting the module - -otherwise "he'd be liable". Probably has a buddy that works at an electrical shop....

As for ding ding ding -- I believe that is just the key-minder when you open your door if the key is still in the ignition (to remind you not to lock the keys in the car). Sounds normal to me unless I am misunderstanding you....
------
What your car needs is a mechanically inclined person who knows Saturns. There are hopefully a few of these at your local Saturn dealership.
Get it diagnosed there.

Oh, forgot to ask - - have you ever (especially recently) spilled soda into the center console (back section)?

Derf


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Edited by: derf

Sorry Derf,[img]smileys/smiley24.gif[/img] You are right, I thought long and hard about it before taking it to him again but I thought I could just get him to disconnect it for nothing. That's how it gets when I get tight with money. I was there in the car when he did pull off the center console and it was sticky. I had probably about a couple of months before maybe a little less spilled cola in that area. I tried soaking it up as soon as I could. This didn't happen right away so I had no way of knowing until I got into all this that it could have been caused by the spill. The thing is....he didn't disconnect the battery and even though I was in the car at the time, I can't really remember seeing him disconnect anything and I certainly don't think he disconnected two different things, (wasn't enough time) when we first discussed this he said he could get to the part but that I'd have to be the one to disconnect it because he'd be liable but he didn't have me do it. I thought maybe he changed his mind after I showed him that article about it. But even though I was around the car, there could be a chance that he didn't actually disconnect anything at all. I just wonder if he disconnected anything previously that could have messed up the chance of this working?

The ding ding is happening as soon as I stop the car, it used to ding if I'd of left the key in the ignition when I opened the door but this is as soon as it's turned off.